MOT Failure - Handbrake
Discussion
Car failed yesterday because the handbrake for the drivers side rear does not work properly.
The mechanic mentioned to his boss that there were two types of mechanism and that he would be able to adjust one type and no the other (I'm assuming this means a repair).
Does anybody know the truth about this as I'm sick of garages making up rubbish to make a fast buck. Also, is handbrake adjustment an easy thing to do?
Thanks
The mechanic mentioned to his boss that there were two types of mechanism and that he would be able to adjust one type and no the other (I'm assuming this means a repair).
Does anybody know the truth about this as I'm sick of garages making up rubbish to make a fast buck. Also, is handbrake adjustment an easy thing to do?
Thanks
Join the club 
Only one type of handbrake and it is fully adjustable.
Rear wheels off car.
1st check cable hasn't melted where it passes under rear turbo. (mine had).
Get a torch, and shine it through the hole in the front face of the brake drum. Using a screwdriver, click the ratchet, so slackening off the adjuster.
Remove drum.
Check for sufficient lining material on brake shoe.
Refit, re-adjust until shoe is just, but only just dragging on the drum. Back off one click.
Refit wheels. Both wheels should turn without brake shoes dragging.
Pull back tunnel carpet behind passenger seat. Remove inspection panel.
Adjust clevis until shoes almost dragging.
Handbrake should now operate correctly.
Only one type of handbrake and it is fully adjustable.
Rear wheels off car.
1st check cable hasn't melted where it passes under rear turbo. (mine had).
Get a torch, and shine it through the hole in the front face of the brake drum. Using a screwdriver, click the ratchet, so slackening off the adjuster.
Remove drum.
Check for sufficient lining material on brake shoe.
Refit, re-adjust until shoe is just, but only just dragging on the drum. Back off one click.
Refit wheels. Both wheels should turn without brake shoes dragging.
Pull back tunnel carpet behind passenger seat. Remove inspection panel.
Adjust clevis until shoes almost dragging.
Handbrake should now operate correctly.
Every time I ask something you guys always come up with intelligent (usually ), straight-forward solutions. As usual I'm indebted to you.
I drove it to Kwik fit as I don't have the equipment to take wheels off and they mentioned the brake shoes are a litle worn and a little loose. They tightened it all up, gave it a test and found that it still wasn't working. The general mechanism seems to be in good working order as they let me watch while they pulled the handbrake when the wheel was off (such a simple system). Unfortunately neither of us knew where the adjustment panel was (until I found it just now on the tunnel section behind the passenger seat
) so I took it home. No charge which was good.
There are 2 cables - is one just a backup as it looks quite a bit thinner than the other? I think it's the thin one that needs adjusting.
), straight-forward solutions. As usual I'm indebted to you.I drove it to Kwik fit as I don't have the equipment to take wheels off and they mentioned the brake shoes are a litle worn and a little loose. They tightened it all up, gave it a test and found that it still wasn't working. The general mechanism seems to be in good working order as they let me watch while they pulled the handbrake when the wheel was off (such a simple system). Unfortunately neither of us knew where the adjustment panel was (until I found it just now on the tunnel section behind the passenger seat
) so I took it home. No charge which was good.There are 2 cables - is one just a backup as it looks quite a bit thinner than the other? I think it's the thin one that needs adjusting.
NobleGuy said:
There are 2 cables - is one just a backup as it looks quite a bit thinner than the other? I think it's the thin one that needs adjusting.
When you look through the access panel, there should be 3 cables. One to each wheel, and one going forwards to the lever. Its that one you adjust. (2 12mm spanners IIRC)node said:
If you have the build manual PDF, theres a section in there which explains all about how to adjust the handbrake on page 111.
Ah yes, found it. Very helpful.peterguk V6 KWK said:
NobleGuy said:
There are 2 cables - is one just a backup as it looks quite a bit thinner than the other? I think it's the thin one that needs adjusting.
When you look through the access panel, there should be 3 cables. One to each wheel, and one going forwards to the lever. Its that one you adjust. (2 12mm spanners IIRC)NobleGuy said:
There is a main cable which leads to two separate ones. Does this adustment affect both wheels? Only the driver's side is not working. For some reason I expected an adjuster per cable to adjust them independently.
Yes, it pulls up both cables, splitting the effort between both rear cables.So, in theroy, if both cables are good, both adjusters are good, both shoes are good etc, handbrake effort should be equal on both wheels.
I had a similar problem this year. I replaced the offending shoe, and the car went through on retest perfectly. If you think about it, wear on the shoe will reduce the diameter of the friction surface, which in turn, will reduce the surface area of shoe pushing out onto drum surface. I was down to 1mm of shoe lining thickness.
Biggriff said:
They have to be a standard part. I am assuming Ford?
If we can get the part number I can ask my friendly parts guy to do a search.
I looked into this. Made by a company in Australia. Would only sell me the complete kit - i.e. shoe, adjuster etc. IIRC they have a subsiduary in SA, which is probably the Noble link. Can post the info i got at the time, but TBH not much point.If we can get the part number I can ask my friendly parts guy to do a search.
Ended up buying from the factory...
Adrian W said:
NobleGuy said:
I think the shoe needs replacing on mine too. Any idea of
where you got the part and/or its number?
you have to order from a dealer,wait for it...............£72 eachwhere you got the part and/or its number?
Be interesting if there were alternatives - best to ditch the wierd and wonderful bits if possible. I'm beginning to wonder why they used random Australian/SA parts for a car being sold in the UK. The Kwik Fit guys commented on it saying they'd never seen one like it.
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