Pre Welding precautions please
Pre Welding precautions please
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Discussion

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
As above, and precautions i need to take before i get the exhaust re-welded? How do i protect the ECU, and is there a MAin fuse that feeds it or the battery? Thanks, Adam

obes

3,298 posts

273 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
obviously, if possible take it off! but I guess you've already decided to weld it in situ..

It's always safest to disconnect the battery and disconnect the ECU. Truthfully you should be OK to just do it, but......

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
HAHA, Obes my friend i love the BUT. Those buts always have a habbit of stinging me smile

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
Sorry for being a dullard but how would i disconnect the ecu. TBH i dont even think i have found it on the rear bulkhead! I have just took the whole silencer out as two broken studs to the LHS tailpiece.
IF i can find anyone to do it on Friday i am toying with ditching the silencer completely and just going single outlet. Can always swap back if i get bored of the noise.

caccobra

340 posts

265 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
When I had the original exhaust in mine I had to have the chocolate strap re-welded once. Took a chance and didn't disconnect anything. No problems.

No more chocolate strap now that I have replaced the whole mess from the cats back.

http://www.nobleforums.com/showthread.php?t=2342

F.C.

3,901 posts

237 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
ajg31 said:
As above, and precautions i need to take before i get the exhaust re-welded? How do i protect the ECU, and is there a MAin fuse that feeds it or the battery? Thanks, Adam
Before I changed to a Roush Zorst I mig welded the back box three times without disconnecting anything. So long as you put your ground onto the back box or other end of the strap the current has no other path to travel.
F.C.

Adrian W

15,492 posts

257 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
F.C. said:
ajg31 said:
As above, and precautions i need to take before i get the exhaust re-welded? How do i protect the ECU, and is there a MAin fuse that feeds it or the battery? Thanks, Adam
Before I changed to a Roush Zorst I mig welded the back box three times without disconnecting anything. So long as you put your ground onto the back box or other end of the strap the current has no other path to travel.
F.C.
The ECU will be fitted with tranzorbs, but one spike too many and thats it! not the best of ideas.

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
@ Craig, i have seen that post before mate and think it is absolutely gorgeous. Every fishscale looks fantastic. Question, where do the turbo downpipes now get supported?

Taken the whole thing off anyway today as i found two studs on the LHS rear pipe had come loose/dislodged. Too fiddly to do those in situ, so took the lot off and doing it in work now. What a crap design tho.

For future reference tho my question still stands, where is the main 80a fuse, and where is it possible to disconnect the euc?

Edited by ajg31 on Wednesday 6th June 21:51

D_G

1,939 posts

238 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
If you get underneath you can easily undo the battery terminal through the belly pan. Otherwise take off the OSR sheild in front on the wheel and you'll get to the battery OK.

Dave

AMG Merc

11,955 posts

282 months

Wednesday 6th June 2007
quotequote all
ajg31 said:
For future reference tho my question still stands, where is the main 80a fuse
I think its behind the passenger well kick-plate. Think it sits seperately to the others bolted to the wall.

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Thursday 7th June 2007
quotequote all
thank you

caccobra

340 posts

265 months

Thursday 7th June 2007
quotequote all
ajg31 said:
@ Craig, i have seen that post before mate and think it is absolutely gorgeous. Every fishscale looks fantastic. Question, where do the turbo downpipes now get supported
It's all supported by the same rubber factory mounts. It's a bolt in kit from www.tutbohoses.com. True dual exhaust with equal length pipes through separate free-flowing mufflers. Makes a world of difference over the factory system.

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Thursday 7th June 2007
quotequote all
Craig, on the original tho there is a support that goes from the silencer to the turbo downpipe. Thats the one i was wondering about as there seems to be no support. I did look on the website a few weeks back, just couldnt justify the money (about 1500 pounds) even if it is gorgeous and shiney smile

l6nex

356 posts

282 months

Thursday 7th June 2007
quotequote all
caccobra said:
ajg31 said:
@ Craig, i have seen that post before mate and think it is absolutely gorgeous. Every fishscale looks fantastic. Question, where do the turbo downpipes now get supported
It's all supported by the same rubber factory mounts. It's a bolt in kit from www.tutbohoses.com. True dual exhaust with equal length pipes through separate free-flowing mufflers. Makes a world of difference over the factory system.
This system looks fantastic! any details on price and would they ship to the uk?

ajg31

Original Poster:

1,455 posts

236 months

Thursday 7th June 2007
quotequote all
Price is on website @ $2500

Edited by ajg31 on Thursday 7th June 18:01

caccobra

340 posts

265 months

Friday 8th June 2007
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ajg31 said:
Craig, on the original tho there is a support that goes from the silencer to the turbo downpipe. Thats the one i was wondering about as there seems to be no support. I did look on the website a few weeks back, just couldnt justify the money (about 1500 pounds) even if it is gorgeous and shiney smile
That's the chocolate strap. It isn't needed on the new system. It must have been on the OEM system to keep the funky heavy muffler from flopping around. There is also a little welded bracket that attaches to a couple of the oil pan mount bolts with the OEM system (most people aren't even aware of that one). That thing is almost always broken too. It also is not needed with the new system. The three rubber shock mounts are all that is needed and it doesn't bounce or move around either.