How to tow the M400?
Discussion
All,
I had occasion to have the M400 towed twice last month and, in keeping with the owner's manual, we used the rear tow ring to winch the car onto the flatbed, where the car was cinched down with wheel straps for the trips. (sorry not to know Brit-speak for this--probably something about lorries, boots, and spanners or somesuch).
On arrival to 1gracing, I was told that the tow ring was made of soft aluminium (you're probably pronouncing this wrong, too), that it had "stretched", and that it was not strongly attached to the chassis. I was told I should have used tow straps around the control arms for winching.
So, what's the right way to tow a M400?
And Mick, anything factory-direct would be most welcome.
thanks,
Doug in Cincinnati
ps- fuel pump had joined the choir invisible in case you were wondering.
I had occasion to have the M400 towed twice last month and, in keeping with the owner's manual, we used the rear tow ring to winch the car onto the flatbed, where the car was cinched down with wheel straps for the trips. (sorry not to know Brit-speak for this--probably something about lorries, boots, and spanners or somesuch).
On arrival to 1gracing, I was told that the tow ring was made of soft aluminium (you're probably pronouncing this wrong, too), that it had "stretched", and that it was not strongly attached to the chassis. I was told I should have used tow straps around the control arms for winching.
So, what's the right way to tow a M400?
And Mick, anything factory-direct would be most welcome.
thanks,
Doug in Cincinnati
ps- fuel pump had joined the choir invisible in case you were wondering.
Doug, a good point - I have a photo of an M12 which was towed on Sunday at the Owner's day - the rear towing ring is destroyed (actually stretched open) and the rope/cable they used even tore into the diffuser top - more damage!
So, IMHO they are nigh on useless and not up to their intended use however, when I have had mine winched onto a flat bed they have either tied the cable somewhere central underneath on the chassis or have used the towing eye but ONLY in a straight line and slowly - in which case it works fine.
One of the problems is the angle up/down onto the truck which can cause the aforementioned front (clam) or rear (diffuser) damage (via the rope/cable) so I always ask for a low-rider flat-bed - these lower the entire bed onto the ground behind the truck first and you then push the car over a step of just a few inches high before the entire bed and car are winched onto the truck (these are rare over here but well worth the wait).
So, IMHO they are nigh on useless and not up to their intended use however, when I have had mine winched onto a flat bed they have either tied the cable somewhere central underneath on the chassis or have used the towing eye but ONLY in a straight line and slowly - in which case it works fine.
One of the problems is the angle up/down onto the truck which can cause the aforementioned front (clam) or rear (diffuser) damage (via the rope/cable) so I always ask for a low-rider flat-bed - these lower the entire bed onto the ground behind the truck first and you then push the car over a step of just a few inches high before the entire bed and car are winched onto the truck (these are rare over here but well worth the wait).
Hi Doug,
The only effective (and safe) way of doing this is to attach the winch to the front A-frame. This is the front-most corner section of the spaceframe found on both sides of the car. If you're winching the car from the rear, it's still advisable to use this location - you just have to feed the rope/cable along the underside of the car to reach it.
If you're pulling the car forwards on to a flatbed with the cable so attached, just take care that it doesn't pull up too much against the bottom of the splitter (if you have one fitted).
Hope this helps.
Simon Hucknall
Press Officer
Noble Automotive Ltd.
The only effective (and safe) way of doing this is to attach the winch to the front A-frame. This is the front-most corner section of the spaceframe found on both sides of the car. If you're winching the car from the rear, it's still advisable to use this location - you just have to feed the rope/cable along the underside of the car to reach it.
If you're pulling the car forwards on to a flatbed with the cable so attached, just take care that it doesn't pull up too much against the bottom of the splitter (if you have one fitted).
Hope this helps.
Simon Hucknall
Press Officer
Noble Automotive Ltd.
Simon,
Thanks so much!
I was hoping for something a bit official.
I'll need to go stare at the car tonight to understand exactly what you're talking about and whether it makes sense to use a winch hook or straps. A picture from you or yours would be worth a lot, particularly as an update to the owner's manual which, again, suggests using the rear hook.
best,
Doug in Cincinnati
Thanks so much!
I was hoping for something a bit official.
I'll need to go stare at the car tonight to understand exactly what you're talking about and whether it makes sense to use a winch hook or straps. A picture from you or yours would be worth a lot, particularly as an update to the owner's manual which, again, suggests using the rear hook.
best,
Doug in Cincinnati
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