Fluidampr crank pulley

[XLRONYX]

I need to pull the front cover soon to see if my "ticka ticka" noise is a collapsed hydraulic lash adjuster. If it fits, I'll replace the factory crank pulley with Fluidampr part number 571001, which was developed for the Duratec as used in the Mazda. Will this work for a Noble 3.0? Asked another way, does the Noble 3.0 use the same pulley alignment as the more conventional Duratec applications?

Jeff



BTW, I'm way old, and very very light. Think single digit stone.

[spoed]

Is there a noticable advantage ?

[andygtt]

you only need to change it if your reving beyond 7000rpm... if you dont you can stick with original... if you rev to 7500rpm and have original you will fry your alternator within 3 laps on track.
if your going to the mountune cams you will need to ensure this pulley reduces enough pretty sure a 10% reduction isnt enough and it needs to be something like 30%

the std pulley is a ford item, no idea if the mazda one is the same offset etc, will probably need to measure.

[Gadgeroonie]

is it just an underdrive pulley ?

how much is it ?

the alternative is a switch that turns off the alternator when you are above a certain rpm / throttle position / boost. you get more hp if you can stop charging the alternator

[Daddysumo]

Mike.. How does turning off the alternator stop it from physically destructing itself like my second one did ?

[XLRONYX]

It's an underdrive pulley as well as a harmonic damper intended to help crankshafts last longer. There are lots of informative web sites that explain where the harmonics come from, and why they should be damped, much better than I can. My interest is the underdrive bit. The Fluidampr appears to be the only option on the west side of the big pond.

My big concern is that I'll finally get one in my hands only to realize that the pulley grooves don't line up with everything else.

Now, if one of you guys decides to make another batch of the CNC'ed aluminum pulleys that I read about here a few months back, then I'll grab one of those instead.

Jeff

[Daddysumo]

If there are a few people interested then I could be persuaded
to have another batch manufactured.

[Gadgeroonie]

Daddysumo said:

Mike.. How does turning off the alternator stop it from physically destructing itself like my second one did ?

it won't - but it will stop it from overcharging

how did your alternator destroy itself ? did it fly apart under centrifugal force ?

[Daddysumo]

Gadgeroonie said:

Daddysumo said:

Mike.. How does turning off the alternator stop it from physically destructing itself like my second one did ?

it won't - but it will stop it from overcharging

how did your alternator destroy itself ? did it fly apart under centrifugal force ?

Yep bits broke off the cente around the coils !!

[Daddysumo]

Gadgeroonie said:

Daddysumo said:

Mike.. How does turning off the alternator stop it from physically destructing itself like my second one did ?

it won't - but it will stop it from overcharging

how did your alternator destroy itself ? did it fly apart under centrifugal force ?

Yep bits broke off the cente around the coils !!

[andygtt]

and it was a brand new alternator wasnt it?

[Gadgeroonie]

if it was not charging it probably would have been ok (open circuit)

i think you may find an eddy current caused it to fail (it was working like a retarder !)

[XLRONYX]

Daddysumo said:

If there are a few people interested then I could be persuaded
to have another batch manufactured.

I'm very interested unless the cost to get it over here is insane. FWIW, the engine shop I use doesn't like Fluidampr products because they are supposedly hard to balance. I guess the fluid moving around inside makes engine balance a moving target.

Jeff