Discussion
Personally I think if I were going to buy another, I'd probably look to get a cheap one with engine problems and have it rebuilt with a warranty.
Buying a good one - compression would be key and the coil packs need to be treated as a service item so I'd either look for recent replacement or budget to do so. Failure to restart when hot is indicative of engine trouble, but that shouldn't happen if compression is good - otherwise, they don't really feel shagged when they are, I remember someone in the owners club only realising that they had problems when they couldn't keep up with the acceleration of the lower powered version. They're a Mazda, so look for rust. The drop links break for fun, but it's a cheap fix.
Buying a good one - compression would be key and the coil packs need to be treated as a service item so I'd either look for recent replacement or budget to do so. Failure to restart when hot is indicative of engine trouble, but that shouldn't happen if compression is good - otherwise, they don't really feel shagged when they are, I remember someone in the owners club only realising that they had problems when they couldn't keep up with the acceleration of the lower powered version. They're a Mazda, so look for rust. The drop links break for fun, but it's a cheap fix.
The main things to look for are rust and compression
There are various other common issues like any other car , such as
- PAS issues (cost to fix ranges between next to nothing and quite a lot depending on the issue)
- seized brake calipers
- blocked cats and ignition issues (which tend to be related). Budget for complete ignition replacement unless it’s been changed recently
- broken rear coil springs
-drop links as already mentioned
I don’t buy in to the ‘buy one with an already knackered engine’ thing personally, obviously that is one way to do it but it’s the expensive way. If you find one with good compression and treat it right it’ll likely do many miles before a rebuild is required, particularly if it’s a later R3.
There are various other common issues like any other car , such as
- PAS issues (cost to fix ranges between next to nothing and quite a lot depending on the issue)
- seized brake calipers
- blocked cats and ignition issues (which tend to be related). Budget for complete ignition replacement unless it’s been changed recently
- broken rear coil springs
-drop links as already mentioned
I don’t buy in to the ‘buy one with an already knackered engine’ thing personally, obviously that is one way to do it but it’s the expensive way. If you find one with good compression and treat it right it’ll likely do many miles before a rebuild is required, particularly if it’s a later R3.
otolith said:
Personally I think if I were going to buy another, I'd probably look to get a cheap one with engine problems and have it rebuilt with a warranty.
Buying a good one - compression would be key and the coil packs need to be treated as a service item so I'd either look for recent replacement or budget to do so. Failure to restart when hot is indicative of engine trouble, but that shouldn't happen if compression is good - otherwise, they don't really feel shagged when they are, I remember someone in the owners club only realising that they had problems when they couldn't keep up with the acceleration of the lower powered version. They're a Mazda, so look for rust. The drop links break for fun, but it's a cheap fix.
I was going to say best to buy a cheap one that needs an engine and at least that way you know its not been bodged etcBuying a good one - compression would be key and the coil packs need to be treated as a service item so I'd either look for recent replacement or budget to do so. Failure to restart when hot is indicative of engine trouble, but that shouldn't happen if compression is good - otherwise, they don't really feel shagged when they are, I remember someone in the owners club only realising that they had problems when they couldn't keep up with the acceleration of the lower powered version. They're a Mazda, so look for rust. The drop links break for fun, but it's a cheap fix.
Depending on your budget keep the R3 in mind.
Lots of little bits and bobs were updated and mine is now 14 years old at 72k and apart from surface corrosion, sills are all solid and looking pretty darn good. I cannot add much to what has already been said but if you want to run one, go in eyes open, they aren't the cheapest but oh so rewarding.
Lots of little bits and bobs were updated and mine is now 14 years old at 72k and apart from surface corrosion, sills are all solid and looking pretty darn good. I cannot add much to what has already been said but if you want to run one, go in eyes open, they aren't the cheapest but oh so rewarding.
Thanks for all the tips everyone. Much as I'd have loved to go R3 they're like rocking horse poo!
So today I collected a very well cared for 2009 40th Anniversary RX-8 230!
Driven home for 50ish miles (plus a couple of hot starts allocating garage space) and couldn't be happier!
A two new (to me) car week! Spoiled boy!
So today I collected a very well cared for 2009 40th Anniversary RX-8 230!
Driven home for 50ish miles (plus a couple of hot starts allocating garage space) and couldn't be happier!
A two new (to me) car week! Spoiled boy!
Well done.
When they work and you can ignore the fuel bills, there's not much out there like them.
The 'good' news is that the fuel bills are eye watering whether you're taking it easy or driving like your pants are on fire ... so you may as well give it the beans at every opportunity to get the maximum smiles per gallon.
When they work and you can ignore the fuel bills, there's not much out there like them.
The 'good' news is that the fuel bills are eye watering whether you're taking it easy or driving like your pants are on fire ... so you may as well give it the beans at every opportunity to get the maximum smiles per gallon.
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