Honda Civic 2.0 Type R GT - What is Fair Price? Advice?
Discussion
Any owners (past owners) of Honda Civic 2.0 i-VTEC Type R GT? What is a reasonable price for these at the moment, for a well-looked after model? Anything to look out for (other the rust) and what are they like to own.
Also considering a Suzuki Swift Sport and Audi TT MK1 - how would they compare? Is reliability really that bad on the TTs, even under the best case scenario of a well-looked after model?
Budgeting around £3000 ish. Will be replacing a Celica.
Also considering a Suzuki Swift Sport and Audi TT MK1 - how would they compare? Is reliability really that bad on the TTs, even under the best case scenario of a well-looked after model?
Budgeting around £3000 ish. Will be replacing a Celica.
Edited by Hunts887 on Saturday 6th July 02:28
Edited by Hunts887 on Saturday 6th July 02:30
Edited by Hunts887 on Saturday 6th July 02:45
Had an FN2 GT, now own a Swift Sport, both 2007.
Personally, I feel that are very similar cars (to a degree) both handle exceptionally well, both are relatively cheap to run, and both get rusty underneath, so check first.
£3000 will get you an older but decent FN2 with 100k - 150k miles. It will get you a very tidy ZC31 Swift with 80k - 130k miles. Later models of both are better, but £3k won't get you a post 2010 LSD FN2, but will get you a post 07 Swift with higher rev limit and different final drive. Swift also requires 97+ octane fuel.
Some faults, most of which I've experienced to some degree.
- Early FN2 tend to have a faulty third gear, sometimes popping out during acceleration, eventually getting worse and doing further damage. I don't think a fix before this happens is a huge job but do some research.
- Starter fault can cause the motor not to engage sometimes and car won't start. Immediate fix is to get out and rock the car a bit and try again, usually works. Longer fix is to buy the redesigned part from Honda which fits better.
- Boots leak, it's a seal. Decent clean and or new rubber, not difficult.
- Fuel cap doesn't pop open when old, later part has a better spring or something but didn't bother me.
- Rear wheel or axle tends to sometimes collapse. Not experienced this one, but seen a few go.
- Dash display missing pixels.
- Swift M16 engine is very reliable, weak point is gearbox so check for crunching.
- Central locking regularly goes nuts. Don't leave keys in the car, may be door wiring.
- Exhausts fall apart regularly.
- Standard coil springs hard to get hold of.
- Air con prone to failure.
Headlights go cloudy on both, fixed with polish kit. Seatbolsters wear on both.
The FN2 is obviously a fair bit quicker, but the Swift feels nearly as fast since both have a frantic revvy engine. Swift is lighter and a slightly better steer I think. FN2 interior space is amazing for carrying loads.
My opinion? Get the FN2 if possible. It might be your last chance to get Vtec at a sensible price. I regretted selling mine. Swift either ZC31 or ZC32 will still be available when you sell the FN2, and you'll probably make a little cash on that.
Paid £2k for my FN2 on 175k, and £1700 for my Swift on 140k. Other than consumables and some minor tidy up bits they cost me very little. Relativeky light road miles in my ownership, but both have seen regular track use and never missed a beat really.
Whatever you buy, you'll have fun. Both were among my favourite cars I've owned, good luck.
Personally, I feel that are very similar cars (to a degree) both handle exceptionally well, both are relatively cheap to run, and both get rusty underneath, so check first.
£3000 will get you an older but decent FN2 with 100k - 150k miles. It will get you a very tidy ZC31 Swift with 80k - 130k miles. Later models of both are better, but £3k won't get you a post 2010 LSD FN2, but will get you a post 07 Swift with higher rev limit and different final drive. Swift also requires 97+ octane fuel.
Some faults, most of which I've experienced to some degree.
- Early FN2 tend to have a faulty third gear, sometimes popping out during acceleration, eventually getting worse and doing further damage. I don't think a fix before this happens is a huge job but do some research.
- Starter fault can cause the motor not to engage sometimes and car won't start. Immediate fix is to get out and rock the car a bit and try again, usually works. Longer fix is to buy the redesigned part from Honda which fits better.
- Boots leak, it's a seal. Decent clean and or new rubber, not difficult.
- Fuel cap doesn't pop open when old, later part has a better spring or something but didn't bother me.
- Rear wheel or axle tends to sometimes collapse. Not experienced this one, but seen a few go.
- Dash display missing pixels.
- Swift M16 engine is very reliable, weak point is gearbox so check for crunching.
- Central locking regularly goes nuts. Don't leave keys in the car, may be door wiring.
- Exhausts fall apart regularly.
- Standard coil springs hard to get hold of.
- Air con prone to failure.
Headlights go cloudy on both, fixed with polish kit. Seatbolsters wear on both.
The FN2 is obviously a fair bit quicker, but the Swift feels nearly as fast since both have a frantic revvy engine. Swift is lighter and a slightly better steer I think. FN2 interior space is amazing for carrying loads.
My opinion? Get the FN2 if possible. It might be your last chance to get Vtec at a sensible price. I regretted selling mine. Swift either ZC31 or ZC32 will still be available when you sell the FN2, and you'll probably make a little cash on that.
Paid £2k for my FN2 on 175k, and £1700 for my Swift on 140k. Other than consumables and some minor tidy up bits they cost me very little. Relativeky light road miles in my ownership, but both have seen regular track use and never missed a beat really.
Whatever you buy, you'll have fun. Both were among my favourite cars I've owned, good luck.
If I had £3k I'd get an FN2.
Paid £3800 for one a few years ago and sold for same with 105k miles.
As said above, gears can go (mine had refurbed box)
And also, drive-shafts are a weakness. Mine snapped pulling out of a junction, was around a £300 fix.
Make sure VTec kicks in correctly, and no smoke.
Most will have been ragged at this price, but see plenty with near 200k miles
Paid £3800 for one a few years ago and sold for same with 105k miles.
As said above, gears can go (mine had refurbed box)
And also, drive-shafts are a weakness. Mine snapped pulling out of a junction, was around a £300 fix.
Make sure VTec kicks in correctly, and no smoke.
Most will have been ragged at this price, but see plenty with near 200k miles
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