Keep, Sell, or Bin Celica? Or Alternative

[Hunts887]

Been banging my head against the wall, trying to figure out the best course of action and was wondering if anyone had any insight.

I own a 04 Toyota Celica, however, back in September 2022, it failed its MOT on: driver side sill corrosion (potentially 150 welding to fix, maybe more by now, nearly 2 years later), rear service brake, and other bits and bots amounting to about 500 quid plus, possibly more by now as it has sat SORN for nearly 2 years.

My main concern is: would it be sensible me even trying to throw any more money at this? as I understand it, the corrosion wasn't great even 2 years ago, and although I know no car is exempt from corrosion, my main concern is am I just prolonging the inevitable for another year at best? If so, it's not really worth me potentially throwing a grand at it just for another year. If it was doable though I would like to keep it as it is a fun car for the money.

If I am looking at getting rid of it, is it even worth selling? or in this scenario do people just look at scrapping it etc

Also, are there any other fun coupes that are worth considering? or maybe even an old muscle car? I am budgeting for around £2000ish, as I also own a motorcycle and not looking to go too nuts on spending.

Cheers.







The MOT (for what it's worth) this is nearly 2 year old MOT, though:

Manufacture Year: 2004
Cylinder: 1794 cc

Odometer:137143 mi

1. ADVISORY
Offside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

2. FAIL
Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))

3. FAIL
Engine MIL inoperative or indicates a malfunction (8.2.1.2 (h))

4. ADVISORY
Front Sub-frame corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

5. FAIL
Front Registration plate does not conform to the specified requirements spacing (0.1 (d))

6. ADVISORY
Nearside Front Suspension arm corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))

7. FAIL
Offside Front Lower Integral body structure or chassis has excessive corrosion, seriously affecting its strength within 30cm of a body mounting inner sill area (6.2.2 (d) (i))

8. FAIL
Nearside Rear Service brake excessively fluctuating (1.2.1 (e))

9. FAIL
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))

10. FAIL
Rear Registration plate does not conform to the specified requirements spacing (0.1 (d))

11. ADVISORY
Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))

Edited by Hunts887 on Monday 24th June 08:37

Edited by Hunts887 on Monday 24th June 08:41

Edited by Hunts887 on Monday 24th June 08:42

[MattsCar]

If you think it is gonna cost a grand to weld, the reality is that it will be double that and beyond. Looks pretty far gone from the pictures, including the boot floor..can you stick a screwdriver through it?

My opinion, not worth it as it exceeds the value of the car.

I doubt you'd be able to sell it for anything much more than scrap. However advertised it as a "project" and you'll most likely get £400-500 for it.

[swisstoni]

I think the sale as a project is probably best.
There can’t be many of these about and someone might be looking for parts.

[soad]

It’s worth buttons, so potentially dealing with “difficult” buyers on eBay etc can be difficult/problematic.

Give it a go as a non runner/project car. Otherwise scrap, that’s painless.

[ThingsBehindTheSun]

Scrap it, dealing with the idiots on eBay who think they are buying a fully working car with no issues for £500 will do your head in.

[LightningBlue]

£2000 for a replacement car is shed money so I’d actually look at sorting the Celica as long as it’s mechanically decent

[FMOB]

If paying someone to complete the repairs the it is probably too far gone, buying a welder, some gas, an angle grinder and bit of steel for a diy job then probably worth it.

[MattsCar]

FMOB said:

If paying someone to complete the repairs the it is probably too far gone, buying a welder, some gas, an angle grinder and bit of steel for a diy job then probably worth it.

If only it was that easy.

[ChrisH72]

I absolutely loved my Celica T sport which I had up to 2015. The other day I checked its MOT status out if interest and it appears that I died last year with far too many faults to put right. It sounds like yours has gone the same way. Scrap it. Time to move on.

£2k is a very low budget for a replacement. But if you could run to maybe £3k I'd suggest an fn2 type r gt.

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/2024042690...

Not exactly a coupe but then the Celica has a hatchback. The type r will give you a similar driving experience with an 8k red line and will feel a bit more modern.

[larrylamb11]

I'd be interested.... if it's a VVTi. Where in the country are you? Send me an email through here.

[Wheel Turned Out]

Yes it'll probably be more than it's "worth" to weld it. But buying another car for 2k is almost certainly going to be buying into something else with scabs where you don't want them, or another equally expensive series of problems for you to deal with. Anything even remotely "enthusiast flavoured" for that money is likely going to be shagged, unless you happen upon a real needle in a haystack.

If it's mechanically sound, sometimes it's a case of better the devil you know.

[oceanview]

Why not just deal with the corrosion?

If its just surface corrosion, wire brush it either with a drill or by hand , rust converter on it and then a wax (Bilt Hamber) and its all good.

I don't understand people who keep their car car really clean but neglect what's underneath but, easily sorted.

My Dad's 2007 Honda Civic was looking a bit corroded underneath, just in a few places but spent in total about an hour over a couple of different days and its all black and like new again. Easy.

[swisstoni]

Wheel Turned Out said:

Yes it'll probably be more than it's "worth" to weld it. But buying another car for 2k is almost certainly going to be buying into something else with scabs where you don't want them, or another equally expensive series of problems for you to deal with. Anything even remotely "enthusiast flavoured" for that money is likely going to be shagged, unless you happen upon a real needle in a haystack.

If it's mechanically sound, sometimes it's a case of better the devil you know.

That’s a fair point and in the past I have kept sheds going by spending more than might be ‘sensible’ for the very reasons you pointed out.

[griffter]

If it’s the 190 with reasonable miles and history (and importantly a working engine) you might get up to £1000 for it. Try more than one of the car buying websites, or even calling breakers direct. A friend of mine was in exactly the same position as you last year (Celica 190) and got £1000 for his, on the back of a low loader. All the buyer wanted was the engine.

As for a replacement, unless you get very lucky you won’t find anything remotely comparable for £2000. The FN2 suggested earlier is a good shout, or possibly a Corolla T Sport. To be honest though, if you like the car, I’d get it welded and enjoy it.

[biggbn]

Whilst dynamically inferior, the Hyundai Coupe is the only coupe I can think of that can be bought cheaply and won't be a total nail...

[Hunts887]

soad said:

It’s worth buttons, so potentially dealing with “difficult” buyers on eBay etc can be difficult/problematic.

Give it a go as a non runner/project car. Otherwise scrap, that’s painless.

Thanks for the input everyone.

What are the best scrapper big companies to use these days?

[Hunts887]

larrylamb11 said:

I'd be interested.... if it's a VVTi. Where in the country are you? Send me an email through here.

Newcastle. It is a VVTI yes. You might want to check the MOT first, but last time it was started, engine had no issues. Has had no battery in it since winter 2022.

[Hunts887]

Wheel Turned Out said:

Yes it'll probably be more than it's "worth" to weld it. But buying another car for 2k is almost certainly going to be buying into something else with scabs where you don't want them, or another equally expensive series of problems for you to deal with. Anything even remotely "enthusiast flavoured" for that money is likely going to be shagged, unless you happen upon a real needle in a haystack.

If it's mechanically sound, sometimes it's a case of better the devil you know.

That is what is making the decision harder as I know the engine was/is good and it would be a waste of a fun car. But I have no idea how catastrophic the corrosion is. I only had it since back end 2021.

[Hunts887]

oceanview said:

Why not just deal with the corrosion?

If its just surface corrosion, wire brush it either with a drill or by hand , rust converter on it and then a wax (Bilt Hamber) and its all good.

I don't understand people who keep their car car really clean but neglect what's underneath but, easily sorted.

My Dad's 2007 Honda Civic was looking a bit corroded underneath, just in a few places but spent in total about an hour over a couple of different days and its all black and like new again. Easy.

It arrived in that condition if you know what I mean. Only had it since 2021 and the damage was already done. Hard to tell if it is only superficial rust.

[Hunts887]

griffter said:

If it’s the 190 with reasonable miles and history (and importantly a working engine) you might get up to £1000 for it. Try more than one of the car buying websites, or even calling breakers direct. A friend of mine was in exactly the same position as you last year (Celica 190) and got £1000 for his, on the back of a low loader. All the buyer wanted was the engine.

As for a replacement, unless you get very lucky you won’t find anything remotely comparable for £2000. The FN2 suggested earlier is a good shout, or possibly a Corolla T Sport. To be honest though, if you like the car, I’d get it welded and enjoy it.

If you won't mind taking a look at the MOT from 2022 and see if you opinion still stands on keeping it. I don't know if they over-exaggerate on the corrosion side of things in MOTs, or if they take superficial rust to equal something more serious

How would I go about finding the breakers to call? The engine was good nearly 2 years ago when I last started it, until the battery died and haven't started it since, but I definitely did not have any issues that side

What about a BMW E46 325ti for around that money, 2-3? Probably a different kind of enjoyment I would imagine.