Mileage verification
Discussion
In short there are a few little tricks that can be done but most blockers / corrections are pretty much undetectable.
The best thing to do is look at the car and history and decide if the miles seem genuine. This is fairly hard as I have seen cars with 5000 miles that look like they have done 100k whilst 100k cars that look near new.
Depending on the manufacturer it’s best to take it into the local main dealer and ask them to complete a check however some don’t want to get involved.
The best thing to do is look at the car and history and decide if the miles seem genuine. This is fairly hard as I have seen cars with 5000 miles that look like they have done 100k whilst 100k cars that look near new.
Depending on the manufacturer it’s best to take it into the local main dealer and ask them to complete a check however some don’t want to get involved.
Auto810graphy said:
In short there are a few little tricks that can be done but most blockers / corrections are pretty much undetectable.
I mean this just sounds like a programming challenge, I'm pretty sure there will be a way to detect that something is off. Can't you buy kit which looks for the signs of clocking?Condition should be a good indication along with MOT and service history. The thing is operator error can be a problem - I just bought an Audi TT where V Check flagged a mileage issue - it turned out that the trip computer hadn’t been reset since the car was almost new and that showed just over 1000 miles less than the odometer that was right next to it on the dash - the lower mileage had been inputted at one service and even the selling dealer advertised it at the lower mileage. I wish I’d taken a photo and could’ve got that discrepancy removed.
As others have posted check out the mileage against service dates and MOTs if applicable. Numerous owners particularly in a short period invariably a bad sign imo.
If the car has the original windscreen this can be a good guide to higher mileage same with front end and side paint adjoining arches and especially bonnet leading edge etc. Check wear points on seats( sagging) steering wheel gear lever and carpets etc.
If the car has the original windscreen this can be a good guide to higher mileage same with front end and side paint adjoining arches and especially bonnet leading edge etc. Check wear points on seats( sagging) steering wheel gear lever and carpets etc.
daqinggregg said:
A lot depends on what you are buying and its age.
As an example five year old Focus ST, not a lot you can do, one year old BMW M2 slightly more.
As others have said above, buy on condition.
Check the date codes on the tyres; does the wear, correspond with the mileage.
7th month, 2019.
Or even the 7th week.As an example five year old Focus ST, not a lot you can do, one year old BMW M2 slightly more.
As others have said above, buy on condition.
Check the date codes on the tyres; does the wear, correspond with the mileage.
7th month, 2019.
Lot of modern cars the ECU mileage won't match the gearbox mileage, the blocker only stops 1 not both. I've no idea whether you can interrogate this via OBD though, might be a dealer only thing? I know someone at work who loves cars, looks after them but has a mileage blocker he flicks on for long journeys. I know full well his cars are not thrashed until warmed, cooled down properly and serviced as per the manufacturers guidance, condition will exceptional but he blocks to retain value. Then there's people who PCP a car on 5k mileage, mileage blocking to keep it below 5k but ragging it to death from cold and not servicing it except for once a year (Golf R's fall heavily into this bracket).
As others have said, you need to buy on condition.
As others have said, you need to buy on condition.
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