Is it always better to repair before selling?

[EBRANDON1]

Looking to sell 2014 BMW 430d M-Sport Xdrive. 128k miles.

Autotrader prices for similar spec/ miles etc non CAT cars are around £9k-£10k.

Trouble is its got a vibration and knocking issue when braking. its had new tyres, pads, discs, control arm bushes, wheel weightings balanced and the issue is still there. I'm reluctant to keep spending money on it, but if I can't sell privately and a dealer won't take any more than £7k or something, maybe less, with the issue it has, do I keep throwing money at it?? Or do I just take the hit and sell it with the issue.

[samoht]

If you've already tried replacing a load of parts with no success then I don't see you really have much option but to sell as-is.

Sounds like a case for WBAC, Motorway etc to me.

[EBRANDON1]

samoht said:

If you've already tried replacing a load of parts with no success then I don't see you really have much option but to sell as-is.

Sounds like a case for WBAC, Motorway etc to me.

Maybe. WBAC quote online is £5630, so by the time they walkaround it and knock off this and that basically looking at £5k, which seems insanely low for the car it is but maybe I'm just delusional and optimistic.

[Panamax]

EBRANDON1 said:

its had new tyres, pads, discs, control arm bushes, wheel weightings balanced and the issue is still there.

Who did the work? Anywhere competent ought to be able to get the car sorted out in no time.
Definitely repair before sale. Anyone who drives that car will either walk away or hit you with very low bids.

[alfabeat]

I sold a car via Motorway, and the pickup guy did a long test drive in it before committing, so don't rely on them just looking at it and paying you the money.

[LayZ]

It must be a bush somewhere that is bad. You'll lose thousands if you just trade it as is. Get a full suspension kit on ebay and pay someone to fit then get it aligned. I bet that will cure it.

[GMac1]

I've got a similar issue, I'm about to sell my Volvo with 134k miles on the clock. It has a couple of faults and MOT due. Its a fairly low value car now but still in good shape. I'm still prepared to sell it with a fresh MOT, oil change, faults fixed and even pay £210 to have the alloys refurbished. You will always get more for the car if you offer it in good shape. I've looked at WBAC and top dealer prices and hopefully get somewhere in the middle.

[RD-1]

Not always, but I would in this case.

Take it to a good BMW specialist and get it properly diagnosed.

We can have a go at isolating it as well, does it come from a particular axle or corner? Have you tried rotating the wheels? Bearings? Does it vibrate at speed, or only when braking?

[Mad Maximus]

Do it properly and fix it first. On a car like that’ll it cost you a lot. Just because you’ve replaced a part don’t think it still can’t be that part.

A guy I know had a discovery auto which was heavy on the brakes. It stopped perfect but needed new disks. The new disks vibrated like a bugger and couldn’t handle the heat, got a free replacement set and they did it again. All because they were cheap, ended up buying oem set and all sorted.

[Tango222]

It's the front control arms or brake reaction arms that need replacing to resolve the issue

[OutInTheShed]

Tango222 said:

It's the front control arms or brake reaction arms that need replacing to resolve the issue

It could be the mechaninc who's been working on it needs changing.....

[georgeyboy12345]

I’d part ex it for a new car with those issues. Dealer will be keen to sell so he’ll take it. Don’t mention the vibration issue unless specifically asked. More than likely the dealer will just punt it through to auction anyway.