Weekend car - modern classic

[Combustion29]

Hi All,

I'm looking for a weekend car, something with classic styling and character. So far, I'm thinking W123 230, E30 320 and above or a 190e 2.6. I was also thinking an XJ6 but the maintenance sounds horrendous. The problem with the above is that they are becoming hard to find and some of the prices are ridiculous.

Can anyone think of other cars that would fit the bill?

P.S. before anyone says W124, i think they look terrible.

Cheers,

Sean

[s m]

Budget?
Just BMW/Mercedes/German cars or other marques as well?
Only rwd cars?
Number of seats/doors?

[LandRoverManiac]

As a slightly off-the-wall suggestion. MG ZT?

Great handling, good noise in V6 form, pretty much pennies to buy, lots of spares easy/cheap to get hold of + looks 'different' enough to the usual sea of German metal. (Not that there's anything wrong with that mind). To my eye, it looks more interesting than a Merc/Audi/BMW of the same era (aside from the flagship models like M-cars and RS Audis - but then again they cost quite a bit more).



Best sampled in red with original hairclip alloys on - I get quite a few comments from random people at places of work, family, friends, etc.

Best thing is, because everyone is convinced that they are Rover 75s with body-kits on (which they kind of are externally - aside from engines, steering, suspension, etc.) - they're not 'cool' enough for the gazzers and waynes of the council estate to get their hands on. Hence, plenty of unmodified examples around - generally well cared for.


Edited to add - Mine has been mechanically/electrically flawless. Reliability-wise the R75/ZT was one of the better screwed-together things to come out of Longbridge.

Edited by LandRoverManiac on Tuesday 27th December 16:28

[Jaguar steve]

Servicing and maintenance on a X300 6 cyl XJ (1994-1997) is dead simple. Any competent DIYer or village garage can easily work on them and parts are cheap and readily available. They are very robust mechanically with almost bombproof engines and drivelines. Providing the body and paint is in good nick and all the electrics work the only concerns with that particular XJ model will be corrosion and tired suspension and brakes.

The X308 V8 XJ (1997-2002) is a considerably more refined and much quicker car but still not too difficult to DIY. Issues to address are corrosion and tired suspension and brakes again, early generation timing chain tensioners and waterpumps and making sure the gearbox and diff oil is changed on a semi regular basis. Once that's done and providing you take care of it then you shouldn't have any major grief.

Both are old cars now though. As with any older car its essential to look carefully and buy the very best example you can find and be prepared to spend time and cash on looking after it.

[Combustion29]

Don't the 90s jags have issues with the nikasil coatings and it wasn't til after 2000 that is changed?

[deeen]

Combustion29 said:

Don't the 90s jags have issues with the nikasil coatings and it wasn't til after 2000 that is changed?

The early V8s did, but I should imagine they all died or were resolved long ago.

[Combustion29]

That's good to know but surely this was an expensive car to maintain when new and this won't have changed. The appeal of the e30 for example is that's it wasn't a range topper when it came out.

[Jaguar steve]

deeen said:

Combustion29 said:

Don't the 90s jags have issues with the nikasil coatings and it wasn't til after 2000 that is changed?

The early V8s did, but I should imagine they all died or were resolved long ago.

Quite a few early Nicasil engine cars had the later conventional steel (cast iron really) lined engines fitted under warranty, so you may well find a pre 2000 car with a steel lined engine. Engines were revised for the 2000 MY and designated AJ27 not AJ26. Any X308 XJ8 with a VIN ending in five not six digits has a factory fitted steel engine, earlier last six digit VINs denote a factory Nicasil engine.

Failures were caused by a combination of repeated short trips and the use of high Sulphur fuel sold in some geographical areas. The Sulphur max allowable limit in fuel was significantly lowered in Jan 2000 and any Nicasil engine still running well now should be fine - probably actually better than - a steel lined engine.

[Ahbefive]

So you just want a German barge?

Personally I'd rather something Japanese and sporty thats actually good to drive.

[Jaguar steve]

Combustion29 said:

That's good to know but surely this was an expensive car to maintain when new and this won't have changed. The appeal of the e30 for example is that's it wasn't a range topper when it came out.

No they don't have to be but if you're paying main Stealer prices they certainly will be. There's nothing special or unique or tricky about a 1997-2002 V8 Jag to a mechanic. Servicing is routine, nothing more than oil and filters and the occasional set of plugs, consumables like discs and pads and shocks are easy to replace and no more expensive than anything else and diagnostics are OBD2 compliant. All you need is a £20 code reader.

The killer is going to be something like serious corrosion or catastrophic gearbox failure or a timing chain letting go. If that happens best thing to do is have a deep sigh, tick the XJ box then phone the Scrapman.

I've put way over 100k on two V8 XJs. Both were bought carefully for not much money - I paid £3000 for the current one with just 31000 miles on the clock and a FMDSH - and both have been well serviced and had a little preventative maintenance - all DIY - and nothing has gone wrong.

You'll do well to average more than 26MPG and 10/12k out of a set of tyres but nothing horrible has happened to either in the last 8 years nor do I expect it to.

[Combustion29]

Ahbefive said:

So you just want a German barge?

Personally I'd rather something Japanese and sporty thats actually good to drive.

Well deosnt have to be a barge, e.g. e30 is still a decent drive. I really like the character of the older cars. There are some really nice 70s Japanese cars but they seem impossible to find here. The 80s onwards from Japan just seems soulless to me.

[ZX10R NIN]

It all depends on your budget?

Decent looking 325i FSH under £3000

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-325-2-5-auto-i-SE-E3...

2.0 Mercedes 190

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-MERCEDES-190E-AUTO-...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1993-Mercedes-Benz-190-2...

Saab 900 Turbo

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1990-SAAB-900-TURBO-3-DO...

Alfa Romeo GTV 3.0

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alfa-Romeo-GTV-V6-3-0-24...

Fiat Coupe 20V Turbo

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Coupe-20V-Turbo-199...

[Ahbefive]

Combustion29 said:

Well deosnt have to be a barge, e.g. e30 is still a decent drive. I really like the character of the older cars. There are some really nice 70s Japanese cars but they seem impossible to find here. The 80s onwards from Japan just seems soulless to me.

Souless? An e30 has soul but a 180sx doesn't? Whatever floats your boat I guess.

[Combustion29]

Yeh to me the styling of an e30 has a lot more character than anything Japanese of the 80s. Probably because the BMW styling was actually a little dated compared to Japans futuristic offerings. Also the Japanese cars of that era have horrible interiors

[Ahbefive]

I don't see the interior of an e30 as anything approaching nice but like I said, whatever floats your boat.

[Combustion29]

I've decided to go for the x300, seems like it ticks all the boxes for me. Thanks for all the help guys

[ZX10R NIN]

Glad you got sorted OP

[Jaguar steve]

Combustion29 said:

I've decided to go for the x300, seems like it ticks all the boxes for me. Thanks for all the help guys

Check all over and underneath, especially round the jacking points and front bulkhead for rust. State of rear arches, screen surrounds and wing bottoms are usually a good indication of the rest of the cars condition.

Digital clock displays fade - easy ebay fix. Make sure all the electrics and security/alarm/keyfobs work and cooling/heating functions properly. Aerials often broken but again an cheap fix. Headlinings drop and front seats wear.

Engine and driveline will almost certainly be OK. Look for leaks from the cooling system and the diff oil seals. Puff of smoke on cold start is not uncommon and is usually worn ex. valve stem seals. High mile diffs can get a bit whiny when hot.

Feel the tyres. A little feathering is normal but a sharp increase in wear towards the inner edge on the fronts suggests weak upper wishbone bushes. XJ's work hard on brakes and suspension, but even a knackered one will still seem to drive well. Braking action should be smooth and free of vibration. Drive a bumpy road and listen for rattles and clonks.

3.2l are most common variants. Underpowered IMO when pressing on and heavily loaded or in hilly areas and compromised further by a agricultural autobox. 4.0l is rarer but has a slightly better electronically managed box. Even rarer are 5sp manuals.

I ran a X300 for several years before the V8s and had both back to back for a while. IMO the later car is much better in all respects with the exception of ultimate ride comfort. Try a V8 before you buy a 6cyl XJ