Hypervolt Home 3 Pro Install - Cable Advice
Discussion
Before I start, I’m not an electrician so my terminology here may not be 100% correct.
I’m looking for some advice on a Hypervolt charger install that my electrician is struggling with.
As things stand today :-
Consumer unit / meter is on the upstairs landing of the house.
Charger is mounted to the garage wall which is a separate structure to the house and approx 50m away from the consumer unit.
3 core armoured cable has been ran from consumer unit into the garage.
Seperate, secondary small consumer unit (or whatever they are called) has been mounted inside of the garage.
3 core cable from the house terminates inside the secondary consumer unit.
Wiring of some kind (sorry I do not know what) has been ran from the secondary consumer unit into the charger.
This wiring is also 3 core.
Now, this is where the problems have started.
From within the box he has connected the CT clamp to the wire running into the charger and plugged it in.
When going through the installer app it highlights that the CT clamp is the wrong way around or words similar to that effect.
CT clamp has been wired and positioned in every way possible, with the same result each time.
From my very limited understanding how I believe it should be installed is :-
Connection from the house to the secondary consumer unit is correct as is.
The secondary consumer unit should have an EV ultra cable running from it into the charger.
The EV ultra cable has a 4th wire for Ethernet.
Ethernet cable should be plugged in to its corresponding plug and the wires for the CT clamp should be spliced into this wire?
CT clamp placed around the cable running into the charger from the secondary consumer unit.
Apologies for the wordy message, but if anyone can advise if the above is correct or if I’m missing something that would be appreciated.
I’m looking for some advice on a Hypervolt charger install that my electrician is struggling with.
As things stand today :-
Consumer unit / meter is on the upstairs landing of the house.
Charger is mounted to the garage wall which is a separate structure to the house and approx 50m away from the consumer unit.
3 core armoured cable has been ran from consumer unit into the garage.
Seperate, secondary small consumer unit (or whatever they are called) has been mounted inside of the garage.
3 core cable from the house terminates inside the secondary consumer unit.
Wiring of some kind (sorry I do not know what) has been ran from the secondary consumer unit into the charger.
This wiring is also 3 core.
Now, this is where the problems have started.
From within the box he has connected the CT clamp to the wire running into the charger and plugged it in.
When going through the installer app it highlights that the CT clamp is the wrong way around or words similar to that effect.
CT clamp has been wired and positioned in every way possible, with the same result each time.
From my very limited understanding how I believe it should be installed is :-
Connection from the house to the secondary consumer unit is correct as is.
The secondary consumer unit should have an EV ultra cable running from it into the charger.
The EV ultra cable has a 4th wire for Ethernet.
Ethernet cable should be plugged in to its corresponding plug and the wires for the CT clamp should be spliced into this wire?
CT clamp placed around the cable running into the charger from the secondary consumer unit.
Apologies for the wordy message, but if anyone can advise if the above is correct or if I’m missing something that would be appreciated.
It needs to be either in the primary CU or in the meter box if there is one which is more conveniently located. There is a version of armoured cable which has network cabling laid up in it as well but it's too late for that in your case so you either need to runs a network cable to the CU/meter box or investigate if a wireless CT is available for the Hypervolt. You can see the correct placement of the CT here:
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
On that page switch setting 0 disables the Active Load Management so you can at least get your charger working.
Scroll down this page & it shows where the CT should be if you have two CUs - ignore the battery & solar stuff on the right
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
On that page switch setting 0 disables the Active Load Management so you can at least get your charger working.
Scroll down this page & it shows where the CT should be if you have two CUs - ignore the battery & solar stuff on the right
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
Edited by Mr Pointy on Tuesday 30th June 16:03
Mr Pointy said:
It needs to be either in the primary CU or in the meter box if there is one which is more conveniently located. There is a version of armoured cable which has network cabling laid up in it as well but it's too late for that in your case so you either need to runs a network cable to the CU/meter box or investigate if a wireless CT is available for the Hypervolt. You can see the correct placement of the CT here:
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
On that page switch setting 0 disables the Active Load Management so you can at least get your charger working.
Scroll down this page & it shows where the CT should be if you have two CUs - ignore the battery & solar stuff on the right
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
Perfect, thanks for the explanation, that makes a little more sense to me now.https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
On that page switch setting 0 disables the Active Load Management so you can at least get your charger working.
Scroll down this page & it shows where the CT should be if you have two CUs - ignore the battery & solar stuff on the right
https://support.hypervolt.co.uk/en/knowledge-base/...
Edited by Mr Pointy on Tuesday 30th June 16:03
If I can’t get it through the electricians head I will end up kicking him off the job and getting another installer to finish the job. It’s a shame though because the standard of his work up till now has been decent, if not a little chaotic.
airsafari87 said:
Perfect, thanks for the explanation, that makes a little more sense to me now.
If I can t get it through the electricians head I will end up kicking him off the job and getting another installer to finish the job. It s a shame though because the standard of his work up till now has been decent, if not a little chaotic.
It doesn't help you but I have to say I'd be wary of an electrician who doesn't understand the issue - the documentation seems very clear. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a wireless or remote solution for your charger unlike the the Zappi/Harvi setup.If I can t get it through the electricians head I will end up kicking him off the job and getting another installer to finish the job. It s a shame though because the standard of his work up till now has been decent, if not a little chaotic.
What is your incoming DNO fuse rating? It's usual to get it uprated to 80 or 100A provided your primary CU can handle it.
Mr Pointy said:
It doesn't help you but I have to say I'd be wary of an electrician who doesn't understand the issue - the documentation seems very clear. Unfortunately I haven't been able to find a wireless or remote solution for your charger unlike the the Zappi/Harvi setup.
What is your incoming DNO fuse rating? It's usual to get it uprated to 80 or 100A provided your primary CU can handle it.
This is the position I am at now. He’s an electrician we have used before and trust his work, he does also install chargers but this is the first hypervolt he has installed and he just assumed it was the same as the others he’s used to installing. Clearly it is not the same.What is your incoming DNO fuse rating? It's usual to get it uprated to 80 or 100A provided your primary CU can handle it.
I have no issue with paying him for the work he has done up till now and then take him off the job and get in another installer familiar with Hypervolt to complete the work.
Sorry, I don’t know the DNO rating, but it’s a question I will ask tonight.
Thanks for the clear advice as well, it’s much appreciated.
I think my Zappi charger effectively has two "CT clamps" when used without any solar. The first one is an internal one, built into the charger, which measures how much current the charger is drawing.
The second one uses a pair of wires, and goes to the main meter tails. This one monitors the total house load.
In my case, it's wired with one pair of a cat5 cable.
There are spare terminals for a couple more clamps, for monitoring solar etc.
I assume that any decent charger would be the same?
I'm guessing the problem with your installation is that both CT clamps are monitoring the same thing, giving the same reading, and the charger obviously doesn't like that.
Either run a cable back to the main board, or disable that clamp (short term fix).
If you disable the clamps until a cable is laid, probably worth reducing the max current setting of the charger.
If running a cable back to the house is problematic, you could use a wireless unit like the MyEnergi Harvi.
The second one uses a pair of wires, and goes to the main meter tails. This one monitors the total house load.
In my case, it's wired with one pair of a cat5 cable.
There are spare terminals for a couple more clamps, for monitoring solar etc.
I assume that any decent charger would be the same?
I'm guessing the problem with your installation is that both CT clamps are monitoring the same thing, giving the same reading, and the charger obviously doesn't like that.
Either run a cable back to the main board, or disable that clamp (short term fix).
If you disable the clamps until a cable is laid, probably worth reducing the max current setting of the charger.
If running a cable back to the house is problematic, you could use a wireless unit like the MyEnergi Harvi.
There is nothing physically different with a Hypervolt than any other brand of charger.
There's single phase power, a two core CT clamp and an option for an ethernet cable for wired network instead of the inbuilt WiFi
A Hypervolt has the option to have two CT clamps my with the second optional one to monitor solar generation. Only wired not wireless
Has the installer plugged the CT into the correct terminal? Not the one for solar?
As has been mentioned the CT clamp should be measuring the entire house load to prevent it drawing too much and blowing the incoming fuse.
Sounds like yours is just measuring the power into the charger itself (which is already knows as it has it's own internal CT)
The CT wiring can be extended using Cat5/6 network cable. (Not sure if there is a maximum allowable distance)
Mine was wired in correctly black CT cable went to black terminal, white to white and the arrow in the CT was definitely the right way but it still showed negative consumption.
Could have solved this a few ways like spinning the CT clamp around or swapped wires in the terminals but there is a button in the installer app to "reverse the CT direction" which did it for mine.
I don't think the second consumer unit should be wired in using EV ultra, it's probably not rated for distribution like this. Just the charger final connection.
You just need to run a network cable in parallel with the power back to the main CU. For the purposes of quick fault finding, get some and roll it out in the ground so you can quickly connect the CT clamp in the main consumer unit and connect to the charger. If it works then run the cable in properly
There's single phase power, a two core CT clamp and an option for an ethernet cable for wired network instead of the inbuilt WiFi
A Hypervolt has the option to have two CT clamps my with the second optional one to monitor solar generation. Only wired not wireless
Has the installer plugged the CT into the correct terminal? Not the one for solar?
As has been mentioned the CT clamp should be measuring the entire house load to prevent it drawing too much and blowing the incoming fuse.
Sounds like yours is just measuring the power into the charger itself (which is already knows as it has it's own internal CT)
The CT wiring can be extended using Cat5/6 network cable. (Not sure if there is a maximum allowable distance)
Mine was wired in correctly black CT cable went to black terminal, white to white and the arrow in the CT was definitely the right way but it still showed negative consumption.
Could have solved this a few ways like spinning the CT clamp around or swapped wires in the terminals but there is a button in the installer app to "reverse the CT direction" which did it for mine.
I don't think the second consumer unit should be wired in using EV ultra, it's probably not rated for distribution like this. Just the charger final connection.
You just need to run a network cable in parallel with the power back to the main CU. For the purposes of quick fault finding, get some and roll it out in the ground so you can quickly connect the CT clamp in the main consumer unit and connect to the charger. If it works then run the cable in properly
airsafari87 said:
This is the position I am at now. He s an electrician we have used before and trust his work, he does also install chargers but this is the first hypervolt he has installed and he just assumed it was the same as the others he s used to installing.
You say that but it's a bit worrying that he's putting the CT in the wrong place. I wonder if he always puts them in the secondary CU.Having said that, someone posted up a pic of a new installation the other day with the charger right next to the rest of the house electrics in the garage, so the world's easiest installation, and the installer hadn't bothered to fit the CT (which was included with the charger). If your house max load has enough headroom within the main fuse rating then I don't think it's essential to have a CT. Have you got high power stuff in the house - elec showers, hot tub, a/c, heat pump etc?
What size cable was used for the run to the garage?
Bit of an update after he turned up last night.
We set the dia in the charger to ‘0’ which allows it to work as a dumb box only right now without the CT being fitted.
What I now understand from the advice given on here is that the CT clamp will need fitting in the house and a cable ran from the house, 50m to the garage so that the green plug can be plugged in to the charger.
From what I gather the Hypervolt helpline told him that some sort of wireless connection from the CT clamp to the charger may be possible? This is something i am going to call up about today and speak to them about.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but I have found a Hypervolt installer close to me in Sunderland, I am going to call him today and ask if he can come and review the current installation and advise me what the next steps should be.
If he’s willing to complete the job, even if what everything has been done already needs to be reversed, then happy days.
Someone asked what size cable had been ran from the house. I can’t say for certain but 10mm seems to ring a bell? The OD of the 3 core armoured cable was approx. 25mm if that helps?
We set the dia in the charger to ‘0’ which allows it to work as a dumb box only right now without the CT being fitted.
What I now understand from the advice given on here is that the CT clamp will need fitting in the house and a cable ran from the house, 50m to the garage so that the green plug can be plugged in to the charger.
From what I gather the Hypervolt helpline told him that some sort of wireless connection from the CT clamp to the charger may be possible? This is something i am going to call up about today and speak to them about.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but I have found a Hypervolt installer close to me in Sunderland, I am going to call him today and ask if he can come and review the current installation and advise me what the next steps should be.
If he’s willing to complete the job, even if what everything has been done already needs to be reversed, then happy days.
Someone asked what size cable had been ran from the house. I can’t say for certain but 10mm seems to ring a bell? The OD of the 3 core armoured cable was approx. 25mm if that helps?
airsafari87 said:
Bit of an update after he turned up last night.
We set the dia in the charger to 0 which allows it to work as a dumb box only right now without the CT being fitted.
What I now understand from the advice given on here is that the CT clamp will need fitting in the house and a cable ran from the house, 50m to the garage so that the green plug can be plugged in to the charger.
From what I gather the Hypervolt helpline told him that some sort of wireless connection from the CT clamp to the charger may be possible? This is something i am going to call up about today and speak to them about.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but I have found a Hypervolt installer close to me in Sunderland, I am going to call him today and ask if he can come and review the current installation and advise me what the next steps should be.
If he s willing to complete the job, even if what everything has been done already needs to be reversed, then happy days.
Someone asked what size cable had been ran from the house. I can t say for certain but 10mm seems to ring a bell? The OD of the 3 core armoured cable was approx. 25mm if that helps?
There are harvi wireless CT clamps, but doubt these will be compatible with a Hypervolt charger. It sounds like you need an extra cable. We set the dia in the charger to 0 which allows it to work as a dumb box only right now without the CT being fitted.
What I now understand from the advice given on here is that the CT clamp will need fitting in the house and a cable ran from the house, 50m to the garage so that the green plug can be plugged in to the charger.
From what I gather the Hypervolt helpline told him that some sort of wireless connection from the CT clamp to the charger may be possible? This is something i am going to call up about today and speak to them about.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but I have found a Hypervolt installer close to me in Sunderland, I am going to call him today and ask if he can come and review the current installation and advise me what the next steps should be.
If he s willing to complete the job, even if what everything has been done already needs to be reversed, then happy days.
Someone asked what size cable had been ran from the house. I can t say for certain but 10mm seems to ring a bell? The OD of the 3 core armoured cable was approx. 25mm if that helps?
airsafari87 said:
Bit of an update after he turned up last night.
We set the dia in the charger to 0 which allows it to work as a dumb box only right now without the CT being fitted.
What I now understand from the advice given on here is that the CT clamp will need fitting in the house and a cable ran from the house, 50m to the garage so that the green plug can be plugged in to the charger.
From what I gather the Hypervolt helpline told him that some sort of wireless connection from the CT clamp to the charger may be possible? This is something i am going to call up about today and speak to them about.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but I have found a Hypervolt installer close to me in Sunderland, I am going to call him today and ask if he can come and review the current installation and advise me what the next steps should be.
If he s willing to complete the job, even if what everything has been done already needs to be reversed, then happy days.
Someone asked what size cable had been ran from the house. I can t say for certain but 10mm seems to ring a bell? The OD of the 3 core armoured cable was approx. 25mm if that helps?
Hypervolts are not compatible with wireless CT. As far as I know the only one is the Harvii wireless CT which is made my MyEnergy and are only meant for use with their with their own products like the Zappi charger.We set the dia in the charger to 0 which allows it to work as a dumb box only right now without the CT being fitted.
What I now understand from the advice given on here is that the CT clamp will need fitting in the house and a cable ran from the house, 50m to the garage so that the green plug can be plugged in to the charger.
From what I gather the Hypervolt helpline told him that some sort of wireless connection from the CT clamp to the charger may be possible? This is something i am going to call up about today and speak to them about.
Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but I have found a Hypervolt installer close to me in Sunderland, I am going to call him today and ask if he can come and review the current installation and advise me what the next steps should be.
If he s willing to complete the job, even if what everything has been done already needs to be reversed, then happy days.
Someone asked what size cable had been ran from the house. I can t say for certain but 10mm seems to ring a bell? The OD of the 3 core armoured cable was approx. 25mm if that helps?
Your choices are:
1. Return the Hypervolt and get a Zappi with Harvii CT clamp. (It states a range of 30m indoors or 100m clear sight so not garanteed).
2. Run a network cable between the house incoming meter cabinet or Consumer unit for the hypervolt CT
3. Run the hypervolt with no load balancing - but thoroughly assess the risk of overloading the main fuse.
I haven't seen the route needed but i would generally think that 2 would be best/cheapest/quickest to do.
How risky running without the CT & ALB is depends on your DNO fuse & your house setup. If you have a 100A fuse & there are no electric showers in the house you are probably ok. If you have a 63A fuse & an electric shower or two & a double oven with induction hob & air source heat pump then you are probably going to run out of supply current at some point & pop the fuse.
Quick update.
I had an approved Hypervolt installer visit the house today and give the install a once over.
CT clamp aside, he checked everything and all is ok and to a good standard.
He submitted the rest of the required info while he was there so that’s all covered now.
Charger is working with the CT bypass function enabled and while the electrics can cope with it, he advised, for now to only charge the car while the oven, air fryer etc … isn’t in use.
Next step is get the original electrican to fit a RS485 / Cat5 cable from the CT clamp in the house through to the charger.
Not sure if mentioning good companies is allowed on here? But just incase anyone else reads this and can benefit from it, the Approved Hypervolt installer from the Sunderland area was absolutely spot on today and had in hindsight I would have gone with him right from the outset.
I had an approved Hypervolt installer visit the house today and give the install a once over.
CT clamp aside, he checked everything and all is ok and to a good standard.
He submitted the rest of the required info while he was there so that’s all covered now.
Charger is working with the CT bypass function enabled and while the electrics can cope with it, he advised, for now to only charge the car while the oven, air fryer etc … isn’t in use.
Next step is get the original electrican to fit a RS485 / Cat5 cable from the CT clamp in the house through to the charger.
Not sure if mentioning good companies is allowed on here? But just incase anyone else reads this and can benefit from it, the Approved Hypervolt installer from the Sunderland area was absolutely spot on today and had in hindsight I would have gone with him right from the outset.
OP, although you only need a CAT 5 cable (which is quite a low grade) I'd suggest running in a CAT 7 cable as it's significantly more robust & the cores have a greater copper cross section, although it is slightly harder to work with as it's thicker & stiffer. Whatever you use make sure it has copper cores & not CCA - copper clad aluminium.
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