Tesla Extended Warranty

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Discussion

CG2020UK

Original Poster:

2,041 posts

47 months

Tuesday 27th August
quotequote all
Hi folks,

I got offered a good deal last week and ended up trading in my M2 (big surprise to everyone) and picked up a Tesla Model 3 Long Range 2020 (pre facelift) with 40k miles in red.

This means I just cancelled my Model Y order through work as the Model 3 has enough space and we are keeping my wife’s 330e. The Model Y will likely replace the 330e when its lease is up if all goes well with the Model 3.

I still have a month in the original warranty however I’m debating picking up the extended Tesla warranty.

It’s looking roughly £2.8k for 4 years cover (big one is lights not covered). I believe it’s now 3rd party instead of the original by Tesla.

Anyone think it’s worth it or any experience?

paradigital

974 posts

159 months

Tuesday 27th August
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I recently looked at this for a friend buying a used Model 3 LR. We came to the conclusion that as the drivetrain is still under first-party warranty, then it would make more financial sense to put some cash aside each month to cover non-covered items. The third-party warranty is mental pricing vs say the BMW insured warranty.

I’m in no rush to extend the main warranty on my 2022 Performance when it ends in 18 months.

CG2020UK

Original Poster:

2,041 posts

47 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
That seems to be the general consensus.

Forking out a load of money for some silly parts however does make me cautious.


paradigital

974 posts

159 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
CG2020UK said:
That seems to be the general consensus.

Forking out a load of money for some silly parts however does make me cautious.
I’d rather fork out (a saved) £2000 on parts I need than fork out £2000 on a policy that never gets claimed on.

I guess the policy works for people who can’t trust themselves to save that “what if” fund.

vxr8mate

1,673 posts

196 months

Wednesday 28th August
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I understand the drive train and batteries have a 100,000 miles or 8 year warranty (120,000 for long range).

Happy to be corrected if not accurate.

Avantime

143 posts

129 months

Wednesday 28th August
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Cleevely (Cheltenham) now do an EV warranty. Their work on Teslas (and other EVs) is much cheaper than Tesla. It's £600 a year.

I had an end-of-warranty inspection the other week to identify things that need doing before the end of the Tesla cover. I booked in the work (with Tesla) suggested and it was done, saving £1300+!! This work, if I was paying, would be far cheaper at Cleevely.


Snow and Rocks

2,445 posts

34 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
I'd be careful with relying on that extended drivetrain warranty. My parent's Model Y has needed both rear hubs and the battery invertor replaced. Neither covered despite the inverter being within the battery pack and actually included when you buy a new battery.

They've definitely been unlucky, but despite in theory having less parts to go wrong, they've spent more on repairs in a year than they did in 3 decades of E class ownership. Hopefully it's a bit more reliable going forward!

Edited to add - Tesla pre end of warranty inspection is definitely a good idea - if it lives up to the promise that £600 warranty sounds sensible too.

Edited by Snow and Rocks on Wednesday 28th August 12:31

Merry

1,418 posts

195 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
Avantime said:
Cleevely (Cheltenham) now do an EV warranty. Their work on Teslas (and other EVs) is much cheaper than Tesla. It's £600 a year.

I had an end-of-warranty inspection the other week to identify things that need doing before the end of the Tesla cover. I booked in the work (with Tesla) suggested and it was done, saving £1300+!! This work, if I was paying, would be far cheaper at Cleevely.
How did you go about doing that? I've just had that report done by Cleevely with some stuff that needs doing and don't really know how to report it on the app.

I contemplated just taking a pic of the report and sending it..

tr3a

576 posts

234 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
Snow and Rocks said:
They've definitely been unlucky
Equally anecdotal counterpoint: the only thing that ever went wrong with my 2019 US-built Model 3 was a wonky windshield spray nozzle. That required a whole new wiper arm at €100 fitted, which also came with a new wiper.

Mustn't grumble.

Snow and Rocks

2,445 posts

34 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
tr3a said:
Equally anecdotal counterpoint: the only thing that ever went wrong with my 2019 US-built Model 3 was a wonky windshield spray nozzle. That required a whole new wiper arm at €100 fitted, which also came with a new wiper.

Mustn't grumble.
Yep, my point was more to point out that the generous sounding "battery and drivetrain" warranties are rather less comprehensive than what you might initially think rather than suggesting our fairly disastrous experience was typical.

That said, Tesla does typically come out pretty near the bottom of the various reliability surveys so you probably shouldn't expect Lexus/Toyota levels of reliability in any case

gangzoom

6,787 posts

222 months

Wednesday 28th August
quotequote all
Snow and Rocks said:
That said, Tesla does typically come out pretty near the bottom of the various reliability surveys so you probably shouldn't expect Lexus/Toyota levels of reliability in any case
Our Model X is coming up to 7 years old this month, our Lexus IS300H is soon to be 10 years old. The X was horrifically unreliable for the first few years, spent literally months with Tesla sorting out issues that should have never existed, the IS300H is a Lexus, enough said.

Touch wood however in the last 2-3 years the Tesla has been OK, it's done 84k miles now and things seem pretty settled. We much prefer to us me the Tesla day to day, it's currently averaging 12-15k miles per year, the Lexus 5k max.

Teem50

34 posts

231 months

Thursday 29th August
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Snow and Rocks said:
My parent's Model Y has needed both rear hubs and the battery invertor replaced. Neither covered despite the inverter being within the battery pack and actually included when you buy a new battery.
That sounds a bit odd. The inverter that drives the motor stator coils is attached directly to the motor. The three short output cables from the inverter are rigid and bolted to the motor coils inside the motor housing. Running motor AC all the way from the battery would require some amazing shielding. I guess you might mean the low voltage DC/DC converter which could well be sensibly packaged inside the battery.