2016 BMW i3 Charging advice.
Discussion
so called said:
Can someone please advise me.
Is it OK to connect my i3 to a Type 2 - 43kW charger?
I read somewhere that I am restricted to the 7kWh charger maximum.
Grateful for any advice.
No problem - the charge rate will be the lower of the cars max and the chargers max - they'll sort it out between them.Is it OK to connect my i3 to a Type 2 - 43kW charger?
I read somewhere that I am restricted to the 7kWh charger maximum.
Grateful for any advice.
The i3 does not have a 3 phase capable OBC (on board charger) It can pull a maximum of 32A off a single phase for 240 x 32 = 7.76kW of power at the Charging port. Rectification and transfer losses within the OBC knock another couple of % off that, so yes, a true battery charging power of around 7kW would be expected on a Type 2 AC charger
Within that fundamental 32A limit, the actual charge power is determined by the charger and the cable used to interconnect to the EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment, ie the "charger" mounted on your garage wall, which is really nothing but a relay to turn the power on and off). So, you need to have both a 32A capable EVSE and a 32A cable, otherwise the lowest value part limits the available charge rate (As the actual current drawn is determined entirely by the OBC, the car itself can reduce the current it pulls from the AC supply, for example as the battery reaches fully charged or it it is too hot or cold etc.
DC charging up to 50kW is currently supported in most i3's although some early ones the CCS (Combined Charging System) was an extra cost option and therefore may not be fitted (i think most people, sensibly, optioned it in)
Within that fundamental 32A limit, the actual charge power is determined by the charger and the cable used to interconnect to the EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment, ie the "charger" mounted on your garage wall, which is really nothing but a relay to turn the power on and off). So, you need to have both a 32A capable EVSE and a 32A cable, otherwise the lowest value part limits the available charge rate (As the actual current drawn is determined entirely by the OBC, the car itself can reduce the current it pulls from the AC supply, for example as the battery reaches fully charged or it it is too hot or cold etc.
DC charging up to 50kW is currently supported in most i3's although some early ones the CCS (Combined Charging System) was an extra cost option and therefore may not be fitted (i think most people, sensibly, optioned it in)
Thanks chaps.
The fog is clearing for me.
I'm currently not getting a full charge over night, I think, simply not enough time plugged in.
I'm going to order a 7kW charger asap.
Its location will be very close to the consumer unit and incoming house supply and so minimum loss on 'my' side.
Unfortunately, my I3 does not have the CCS option, partly because I didn't realise the importance when I was searching for a used car.
On the positive side (pardon the potential pun), I am getting approx., 75 miles on electric which is ca. 3/4 of my commute. With a full charge it will obviously be closer but I'm still happy.
Again, thanks.
The fog is clearing for me.
I'm currently not getting a full charge over night, I think, simply not enough time plugged in.
I'm going to order a 7kW charger asap.
Its location will be very close to the consumer unit and incoming house supply and so minimum loss on 'my' side.
Unfortunately, my I3 does not have the CCS option, partly because I didn't realise the importance when I was searching for a used car.
On the positive side (pardon the potential pun), I am getting approx., 75 miles on electric which is ca. 3/4 of my commute. With a full charge it will obviously be closer but I'm still happy.
Again, thanks.
MaxTorque, you have a depth of knowledge. 
Can I ask you one more question please.
I managed to get home a little early yesterday evening.
Mainly because my Wife hadn't given me an 'on the way home', shopping list.
So this morning I had a full charge for the first time.
When I checked the settings on the car, I noticed that my charge setting is set at 'Reduced'.
Having a read of the Handbook regarding this setting, it wasn't clear to me whether I can change it to 'maximum'.
The 3kW is currently plugged in to my house ring main.
Do you think that 'Max' would be OK or should I stick with 'Reduced' with the constant 9 amp load?
Thanks,
Tony.
Can I ask you one more question please.
I managed to get home a little early yesterday evening.
Mainly because my Wife hadn't given me an 'on the way home', shopping list.
So this morning I had a full charge for the first time.
When I checked the settings on the car, I noticed that my charge setting is set at 'Reduced'.
Having a read of the Handbook regarding this setting, it wasn't clear to me whether I can change it to 'maximum'.
The 3kW is currently plugged in to my house ring main.
Do you think that 'Max' would be OK or should I stick with 'Reduced' with the constant 9 amp load?
Thanks,
Tony.
I assume you are charging with the OE single phase charger, ie
If so, then there generally isn't going to be an issue turning the car setting up to max (because that charger will tell the car it can only pull 13amps) However, a continuous full 13amp load can be an issue if you have old, poorly installed, unchecked or very long wiring between your consumer distribution unit and the wall socket the charge is plugged into.
I'd recommend doing a test in day time, set the car to "charge immediately" plug in, make sure it's charging, and check the wiring for issues. you need to feel if anything is getting hot or possibly even starting to discolour or smoke. 'warm' is ok to the touch for sockets leads and cables, but 'hot' isn't!
If so, then there generally isn't going to be an issue turning the car setting up to max (because that charger will tell the car it can only pull 13amps) However, a continuous full 13amp load can be an issue if you have old, poorly installed, unchecked or very long wiring between your consumer distribution unit and the wall socket the charge is plugged into.
I'd recommend doing a test in day time, set the car to "charge immediately" plug in, make sure it's charging, and check the wiring for issues. you need to feel if anything is getting hot or possibly even starting to discolour or smoke. 'warm' is ok to the touch for sockets leads and cables, but 'hot' isn't!
PS, make sure the car is left charging for some time and check regularly, as peak component temps may take up to an hour to be obtained!
It's common on old wiring for the conductor (wire) retaining clamp screws in sockets to become loose, and as a point of high resistance, they can overheat. MOst UK houses typically have low flamability plastic electrical fittings, so a full on fire is typically rare, but you may smell a "Hot" smell or even see smoke is there is a localised hot spot.
It's common on old wiring for the conductor (wire) retaining clamp screws in sockets to become loose, and as a point of high resistance, they can overheat. MOst UK houses typically have low flamability plastic electrical fittings, so a full on fire is typically rare, but you may smell a "Hot" smell or even see smoke is there is a localised hot spot.
Max_Torque said:
PS, make sure the car is left charging for some time and check regularly, as peak component temps may take up to an hour to be obtained!
It's common on old wiring for the conductor (wire) retaining clamp screws in sockets to become loose, and as a point of high resistance, they can overheat. MOst UK houses typically have low flamability plastic electrical fittings, so a full on fire is typically rare, but you may smell a "Hot" smell or even see smoke is there is a localised hot spot.
Hi Max, yes, the original OEM charger.It's common on old wiring for the conductor (wire) retaining clamp screws in sockets to become loose, and as a point of high resistance, they can overheat. MOst UK houses typically have low flamability plastic electrical fittings, so a full on fire is typically rare, but you may smell a "Hot" smell or even see smoke is there is a localised hot spot.
It wasn't clear to me how what load the charger would be on the supply on max.
My house was built in 2000 so not so old but I was already feeling a little uncomfortable with the reduced load.
I have already had to tighten one or two light switch connections so your point has been on my mind.
So long and short, I'm going to get a 7kW ordered at the end of the month.
That will be off its own CB.
Thanks very much for the advice, very much appreciated.
On another positive note, because I got her on charge earlier last night I had a full charge this morning.
I managed 108 miles with only £2.66 worth of petrol.
Reduced is probably because long term 16a draw over household power sockets is putting an unnatural strain on them. Tesla limit it to 10A via a 3 pin plug. I think you said you've not fully charged over night which would suggest this is not pulling 16A - you've only an 11kwh battery so from empty at 3.6kw it should only take 3 hours to charge at that rate.
But the general rule is they will only work as fast as the weakest link - unless there's a fault somewhere!
But the general rule is they will only work as fast as the weakest link - unless there's a fault somewhere!
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