570S break in period?
Discussion
We're planning a long-ish road trip from the south of England to Heidelberg Germany (500 miles), and then another 500 miles to Spielberg Austria. This is literally the day after I collect my brand-new 570S.
Question: will doing 1,000 miles mostly on motorways over two days immediately after taking delivery be detrimental to the car?
Question: will doing 1,000 miles mostly on motorways over two days immediately after taking delivery be detrimental to the car?
McLaren themselves recommend 900 miles of sensible stuff, varied driving and don't wring it's neck.
On these threads somebody always says the engine is pre-run in on a bench so just go for it but there are many other mechanical systems in the car that prefer a period of bedding in.
Ultimately it's up to you, car certainly won't break if you push on but any time I get a new car I like that feeling of knowing it was eased in, one less variable.
On these threads somebody always says the engine is pre-run in on a bench so just go for it but there are many other mechanical systems in the car that prefer a period of bedding in.
Ultimately it's up to you, car certainly won't break if you push on but any time I get a new car I like that feeling of knowing it was eased in, one less variable.
Edited by br d on Saturday 22 April 16:33
The break in period on the development engines came down from 4 hours to 20 minutes. After which the engines were often sitting at peak power for most of the day or running very lengthy durability cycles.
Ultimately it can be ragged and enjoyed, is not like you're going to drive all that way without pushing it . It would be rare for something to go wrong and if it did it would more than likely happen however you drove it.
Ultimately it can be ragged and enjoyed, is not like you're going to drive all that way without pushing it . It would be rare for something to go wrong and if it did it would more than likely happen however you drove it.
Its is probably the best you can do to a new car (if you vary it a little bit) rather than spending 3 months in London trying to get the first 1000 miles in. I have always tried to take my cars on a European trip straigth out of the box (or optioned for factory delivery with Porsche in Stuttgart ) and i always found the cars much more responsive and well running because of that.
Superleg48 said:
vincep99 said:
Do you have to change the oil after the 1,000 mile break-in period?
Irrespective of whether you have to or not based on manufacturer guidelines, it is always good practise to do so.I didn't have the oil changed at my first annual service, 4k miles on the clock
Thanks again for all the answers.
I always wondered why it is recommended on every new car that you vary the speed? The pistons are anyway going their full stroke up and down, so they won't wear in any given spot. Maybe the transmission, so the gears all get equal polishing of the machining marks?
I am not doubting the advice, just wondering. I also would like to break my 570S in on a 500-mile trip on an interstate
I always wondered why it is recommended on every new car that you vary the speed? The pistons are anyway going their full stroke up and down, so they won't wear in any given spot. Maybe the transmission, so the gears all get equal polishing of the machining marks?
I am not doubting the advice, just wondering. I also would like to break my 570S in on a 500-mile trip on an interstate
Running in engines ....... generally,
Do
Warm them properly
Try to avoid regular "5 miles to the shops" trips
Drive at varied RPM / Loads (see below though)
Respect the (reduced) redline RPM limits
Check all fluids more often for the 1st 500 miles (including for oil in the water / water in oil)
Check the oil levels regularly (note rates of change & predict requirements)
Make sure the first service gets done on time
Dont (probably more importantly than the "do"'s)
Work them when cold
Drive under high load in high gears
Exceed max RPM limits
Operate at "steady state" for extended periods
Use anything other than reccommended lubes (eg using fully synth instead of (reccomended) mineral oil)
The most common running in mistake is thinking that using low RPM and high gears will somehow give a better result. One of the key objectives of the running in process is to bed the piston rings and bores in against each other. Done properly this will result in good compression and low oil consumption. Done badly the opposite may result (along with glazed bores and / or other damage)
RPM and load are varied because this varies piston / bore pressures in different parts of the cylinder. Fully synth oils are often avoided as they are too good at lubrication and the desired "wearing together" of rings / piston / bores is reduced / stopped.
Another rule of thumb is that the more modern the engine the less sensitive it will be to how it gets run it. For instance a Lycoming (1950's design) aero engine can be ruined if run in badly. I'd guess a Mclaren would be very much less sensitive.
Do
Warm them properly
Try to avoid regular "5 miles to the shops" trips
Drive at varied RPM / Loads (see below though)
Respect the (reduced) redline RPM limits
Check all fluids more often for the 1st 500 miles (including for oil in the water / water in oil)
Check the oil levels regularly (note rates of change & predict requirements)
Make sure the first service gets done on time
Dont (probably more importantly than the "do"'s)
Work them when cold
Drive under high load in high gears
Exceed max RPM limits
Operate at "steady state" for extended periods
Use anything other than reccommended lubes (eg using fully synth instead of (reccomended) mineral oil)
The most common running in mistake is thinking that using low RPM and high gears will somehow give a better result. One of the key objectives of the running in process is to bed the piston rings and bores in against each other. Done properly this will result in good compression and low oil consumption. Done badly the opposite may result (along with glazed bores and / or other damage)
RPM and load are varied because this varies piston / bore pressures in different parts of the cylinder. Fully synth oils are often avoided as they are too good at lubrication and the desired "wearing together" of rings / piston / bores is reduced / stopped.
Another rule of thumb is that the more modern the engine the less sensitive it will be to how it gets run it. For instance a Lycoming (1950's design) aero engine can be ruined if run in badly. I'd guess a Mclaren would be very much less sensitive.
Edited by speedick on Friday 14th February 09:13
speedick said:
Running in engines ....... generally,
Do
Warm them properly
Try to avoid regular "5 miles to the shops" trips
Drive at varied RPM / Loads (see below though)
Respect the (reduced) redline RPM limits
Check all fluids more often for the 1st 500 miles (including for oil in the water / water in oil)
Check the oil levels regularly (note rates of change & predict requirements)
Make sure the first service gets done on time
Dont (probably more importantly than the "do"'s)
Work them when cold
Drive under high load in high gears
Exceed max RPM limits
Operate at "steady state" for extended periods
Use anything other than reccommended lubes (eg using fully synth instead of (reccomended) mineral oil)
The most common running in mistake is thinking that using low RPM and high gears will somehow give a better result. One of the key objectives of the running in process is to bed the piston rings and bores in against each other. Done properly this will result in good compression and low oil consumption. Done badly the opposite may result (along with glazed bores and / or other damage)
RPM and load are varied because this varies piston / bore pressures in different parts of the cylinder. Fully synth oils are often avoided as they are too good at lubrication and the desired "wearing together" of rings / piston / bores is reduced / stopped.
Another rule of thumb is that the more modern the engine the less sensitive it will be to how it gets run it. For instance a Lycoming (1950's design) aero engine can be ruined if run in badly. I'd guess a Mclaren would be very much less sensitive.
Non of the above needed Ricardo run all Mclaren engines up to full power for 20 minutes on engine dyno so pick up your new Mac, get to operating temp and let rip Do
Warm them properly
Try to avoid regular "5 miles to the shops" trips
Drive at varied RPM / Loads (see below though)
Respect the (reduced) redline RPM limits
Check all fluids more often for the 1st 500 miles (including for oil in the water / water in oil)
Check the oil levels regularly (note rates of change & predict requirements)
Make sure the first service gets done on time
Dont (probably more importantly than the "do"'s)
Work them when cold
Drive under high load in high gears
Exceed max RPM limits
Operate at "steady state" for extended periods
Use anything other than reccommended lubes (eg using fully synth instead of (reccomended) mineral oil)
The most common running in mistake is thinking that using low RPM and high gears will somehow give a better result. One of the key objectives of the running in process is to bed the piston rings and bores in against each other. Done properly this will result in good compression and low oil consumption. Done badly the opposite may result (along with glazed bores and / or other damage)
RPM and load are varied because this varies piston / bore pressures in different parts of the cylinder. Fully synth oils are often avoided as they are too good at lubrication and the desired "wearing together" of rings / piston / bores is reduced / stopped.
Another rule of thumb is that the more modern the engine the less sensitive it will be to how it gets run it. For instance a Lycoming (1950's design) aero engine can be ruined if run in badly. I'd guess a Mclaren would be very much less sensitive.
Edited by speedick on Friday 14th February 09:13
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