CS Geometry set up
Discussion
Having driven the car for a couple of months now it doesn't feel as planted as i would have expected. Seems twitchy in the corners and a fair bit of understeer. I had the car inspected when it arrived by the local indie, who gave it a clean bill of health. Not sure if they looked at toe and camber setting, so will go back and ask.
So, can anyone tell me firstly the factory settings and second, is there a preferred set up that is generally agreed to be better for fast road / track ? All subjective I appreciate.
Thanks
So, can anyone tell me firstly the factory settings and second, is there a preferred set up that is generally agreed to be better for fast road / track ? All subjective I appreciate.
Thanks
Strads are incredibly sensitive to setup/tyre pressures etc.
Dunno where you are in the country but I take mine to Chemix in Stourbridge every year, the guy there Simon is an ex race engineer and really knows his stuff, their equipment is state of the art and only £50 for a full alignment to boot!! if its not been done for a while make sure all the adjustable arms are free an not seized first
Dunno where you are in the country but I take mine to Chemix in Stourbridge every year, the guy there Simon is an ex race engineer and really knows his stuff, their equipment is state of the art and only £50 for a full alignment to boot!! if its not been done for a while make sure all the adjustable arms are free an not seized first
I put the following onto my Strad:
Toe-in at the front reduced to 0.25mm per side (increases 'darty' feeling at the front, decreases steering resistance at the straight-ahead though)
Camber at the front to -2.0 degrees if you can get there.
Toe-in at the rear to 2mm per side (increased from stock to the levels F used for the 430 - this is mostly what gave the 430 a better feeling on the limit so I understand).
Camber at the rear to -2.0 degrees (might have been 2.5 - I think 2.0 is close to stock, 2.5 would give more lateral rear-end grip and more tyre wear probably).
Basically, this leans the tyres at the front and back over for added cornering grip, sharpens turn in at the front and ties the back down so that removing front under steer doesn't make oversteer a big problem.
I really liked it that way, much better than stock IMO. I'm not one for changing from stock usually and I put quite a lot of research into these settings. I was tentative at first but the car immediately felt better. No discernible increase in tyre wear.
Might be considered a fast road/track use setup as opposed to a full track set up where negative camber figures would be higher and front toe-in would be even lower (perhaps even toe-out).
Others may have a better answer for you but this is my experience.
Toe-in at the front reduced to 0.25mm per side (increases 'darty' feeling at the front, decreases steering resistance at the straight-ahead though)
Camber at the front to -2.0 degrees if you can get there.
Toe-in at the rear to 2mm per side (increased from stock to the levels F used for the 430 - this is mostly what gave the 430 a better feeling on the limit so I understand).
Camber at the rear to -2.0 degrees (might have been 2.5 - I think 2.0 is close to stock, 2.5 would give more lateral rear-end grip and more tyre wear probably).
Basically, this leans the tyres at the front and back over for added cornering grip, sharpens turn in at the front and ties the back down so that removing front under steer doesn't make oversteer a big problem.
I really liked it that way, much better than stock IMO. I'm not one for changing from stock usually and I put quite a lot of research into these settings. I was tentative at first but the car immediately felt better. No discernible increase in tyre wear.
Might be considered a fast road/track use setup as opposed to a full track set up where negative camber figures would be higher and front toe-in would be even lower (perhaps even toe-out).
Others may have a better answer for you but this is my experience.
Cerbieherts said:
They tend to suffer with spring sag which increases negative camber. Ride heights are the first dimension to check.
LukeyLikey said:
I put the following onto my Strad:
Toe-in at the front reduced to 0.25mm per side (increases 'darty' feeling at the front, decreases steering resistance at the straight-ahead though)
Camber at the front to -2.0 degrees if you can get there.
Toe-in at the rear to 2mm per side (increased from stock to the levels F used for the 430 - this is mostly what gave the 430 a better feeling on the limit so I understand).
Camber at the rear to -2.0 degrees (might have been 2.5 - I think 2.0 is close to stock, 2.5 would give more lateral rear-end grip and more tyre wear probably).
Basically, this leans the tyres at the front and back over for added cornering grip, sharpens turn in at the front and ties the back down so that removing front under steer doesn't make oversteer a big problem.
I really liked it that way, much better than stock IMO. I'm not one for changing from stock usually and I put quite a lot of research into these settings. I was tentative at first but the car immediately felt better. No discernible increase in tyre wear.
Might be considered a fast road/track use setup as opposed to a full track set up where negative camber figures would be higher and front toe-in would be even lower (perhaps even toe-out).
Others may have a better answer for you but this is my experience.
I agree with both these posts. Your profile says you are in Dubai so you'll be looking for a place that has a decent alignment machine. The market leaders are Hunter.Toe-in at the front reduced to 0.25mm per side (increases 'darty' feeling at the front, decreases steering resistance at the straight-ahead though)
Camber at the front to -2.0 degrees if you can get there.
Toe-in at the rear to 2mm per side (increased from stock to the levels F used for the 430 - this is mostly what gave the 430 a better feeling on the limit so I understand).
Camber at the rear to -2.0 degrees (might have been 2.5 - I think 2.0 is close to stock, 2.5 would give more lateral rear-end grip and more tyre wear probably).
Basically, this leans the tyres at the front and back over for added cornering grip, sharpens turn in at the front and ties the back down so that removing front under steer doesn't make oversteer a big problem.
I really liked it that way, much better than stock IMO. I'm not one for changing from stock usually and I put quite a lot of research into these settings. I was tentative at first but the car immediately felt better. No discernible increase in tyre wear.
Might be considered a fast road/track use setup as opposed to a full track set up where negative camber figures would be higher and front toe-in would be even lower (perhaps even toe-out).
Others may have a better answer for you but this is my experience.
Unless the place you find has set a lot of modern Ferraris, then you'll likely need to supply some shims.
There's an overview on how the geo is set up on a 360 on my blog here.
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