Every day tips for living with a 599
Discussion
Hughesie said:
Yeah it was Autoglass mate.
I had a very bad experience with them with a CLA 45 resulting in 2.5k of damage which was a nightmare getting them to admit liability.Eventually they did take care of everything but had to go very far up the food chain
But I'm not sure if a Ferrari main dealer is going to be better but at least the liability should be better?
Hughesie said:
Re the brakes, there is a bedding in procedure, make sure you do this, its V important, otherwise your brakes wont bed in properly and be a bit weird like you described. I did this twice on mine as they still didn't feel right, now they are great, also surprised you needed them coded, do MDL have an SD3, as Autofficina did mine all inhouse.
a) Perform a series of 10 to 15 partial stops from 65 mph to 10 mph (preferred) with the first 3 under moderate braking, increasing to 75% to 90% of full braking during the series of stops. (Please ensure compliance with all applicable laws and ordinances.)
b) Performance should increase somewhat during this process and fall off toward the end of this cycle.
c) Do not come to a complete stop during this cycle, if at all possible, as this may interrupt the material transfer process to the rotor surface; Note: material transfer process will take longer with new rotors.
d) If friction smell becomes excessive during this first series of stops, become less aggressive with braking and complete the test sequence. Excessive braking at this stage can cause the resins to be released from the friction material leading to Green fade and coating of the rotor surfaces with excessive amounts of resin, which is undesirable, rather than a proper mix of friction material.
e) Allow the brakes to cool by driving at higher allowable speeds and with little if any braking, if possible.
Part 2
a) Repeat the above sequence, including the cooling section
b) Generally 2 complete sequences is often sufficient
c) A 3rd sequence may be performed if deemed necessary.
d) Allow brakes to cool, as per above, before coming to a complete stop or parking the vehicle
Notes: Pads driven primarily on street will require periodic more aggressive braking, to replenish/maintain the transfer layer of material on the rotor surface.
Note: DO NOT ALLOW ABS ACTIVATION during the bedding procedure as this may result in a non-uniform transfer of friction material to the rotor surface and a reduction in braking smoothness. The rotor surface may require attention if this occurs. (e.g.ScotchBrite/BrakeKleen).
I was also advised to do 3/4 very high speed down to 20 mph and back to normal driving speeds as well.
Thanks, I'll put this to the testa) Perform a series of 10 to 15 partial stops from 65 mph to 10 mph (preferred) with the first 3 under moderate braking, increasing to 75% to 90% of full braking during the series of stops. (Please ensure compliance with all applicable laws and ordinances.)
b) Performance should increase somewhat during this process and fall off toward the end of this cycle.
c) Do not come to a complete stop during this cycle, if at all possible, as this may interrupt the material transfer process to the rotor surface; Note: material transfer process will take longer with new rotors.
d) If friction smell becomes excessive during this first series of stops, become less aggressive with braking and complete the test sequence. Excessive braking at this stage can cause the resins to be released from the friction material leading to Green fade and coating of the rotor surfaces with excessive amounts of resin, which is undesirable, rather than a proper mix of friction material.
e) Allow the brakes to cool by driving at higher allowable speeds and with little if any braking, if possible.
Part 2
a) Repeat the above sequence, including the cooling section
b) Generally 2 complete sequences is often sufficient
c) A 3rd sequence may be performed if deemed necessary.
d) Allow brakes to cool, as per above, before coming to a complete stop or parking the vehicle
Notes: Pads driven primarily on street will require periodic more aggressive braking, to replenish/maintain the transfer layer of material on the rotor surface.
Note: DO NOT ALLOW ABS ACTIVATION during the bedding procedure as this may result in a non-uniform transfer of friction material to the rotor surface and a reduction in braking smoothness. The rotor surface may require attention if this occurs. (e.g.ScotchBrite/BrakeKleen).
I was also advised to do 3/4 very high speed down to 20 mph and back to normal driving speeds as well.
Edited by Hughesie on Tuesday 27th February 09:37
cake eater said:
I had a very bad experience with them with a CLA 45 resulting in 2.5k of damage which was a nightmare getting them to admit liability.
Eventually they did take care of everything but had to go very far up the food chain
But I'm not sure if a Ferrari main dealer is going to be better but at least the liability should be better?
For high end stuff they tend to direct you to a specialist centre, no problem on mine, everything was video documented and they actually fixed a factory clip issue as well.Eventually they did take care of everything but had to go very far up the food chain
But I'm not sure if a Ferrari main dealer is going to be better but at least the liability should be better?
I was a tad dubious ast time, when it was in a Morrisons car park in banbury, but they were excellent !
cake eater said:
Hughesie said:
Re the brakes, there is a bedding in procedure, make sure you do this, its V important, otherwise your brakes wont bed in properly and be a bit weird like you described. I did this twice on mine as they still didn't feel right, now they are great, also surprised you needed them coded, do MDL have an SD3, as Autofficina did mine all inhouse.
a) Perform a series of 10 to 15 partial stops from 65 mph to 10 mph (preferred) with the first 3 under moderate braking, increasing to 75% to 90% of full braking during the series of stops. (Please ensure compliance with all applicable laws and ordinances.)
b) Performance should increase somewhat during this process and fall off toward the end of this cycle.
c) Do not come to a complete stop during this cycle, if at all possible, as this may interrupt the material transfer process to the rotor surface; Note: material transfer process will take longer with new rotors.
d) If friction smell becomes excessive during this first series of stops, become less aggressive with braking and complete the test sequence. Excessive braking at this stage can cause the resins to be released from the friction material leading to Green fade and coating of the rotor surfaces with excessive amounts of resin, which is undesirable, rather than a proper mix of friction material.
e) Allow the brakes to cool by driving at higher allowable speeds and with little if any braking, if possible.
Part 2
a) Repeat the above sequence, including the cooling section
b) Generally 2 complete sequences is often sufficient
c) A 3rd sequence may be performed if deemed necessary.
d) Allow brakes to cool, as per above, before coming to a complete stop or parking the vehicle
Notes: Pads driven primarily on street will require periodic more aggressive braking, to replenish/maintain the transfer layer of material on the rotor surface.
Note: DO NOT ALLOW ABS ACTIVATION during the bedding procedure as this may result in a non-uniform transfer of friction material to the rotor surface and a reduction in braking smoothness. The rotor surface may require attention if this occurs. (e.g.ScotchBrite/BrakeKleen).
I was also advised to do 3/4 very high speed down to 20 mph and back to normal driving speeds as well.
Thanks, I'll put this to the testa) Perform a series of 10 to 15 partial stops from 65 mph to 10 mph (preferred) with the first 3 under moderate braking, increasing to 75% to 90% of full braking during the series of stops. (Please ensure compliance with all applicable laws and ordinances.)
b) Performance should increase somewhat during this process and fall off toward the end of this cycle.
c) Do not come to a complete stop during this cycle, if at all possible, as this may interrupt the material transfer process to the rotor surface; Note: material transfer process will take longer with new rotors.
d) If friction smell becomes excessive during this first series of stops, become less aggressive with braking and complete the test sequence. Excessive braking at this stage can cause the resins to be released from the friction material leading to Green fade and coating of the rotor surfaces with excessive amounts of resin, which is undesirable, rather than a proper mix of friction material.
e) Allow the brakes to cool by driving at higher allowable speeds and with little if any braking, if possible.
Part 2
a) Repeat the above sequence, including the cooling section
b) Generally 2 complete sequences is often sufficient
c) A 3rd sequence may be performed if deemed necessary.
d) Allow brakes to cool, as per above, before coming to a complete stop or parking the vehicle
Notes: Pads driven primarily on street will require periodic more aggressive braking, to replenish/maintain the transfer layer of material on the rotor surface.
Note: DO NOT ALLOW ABS ACTIVATION during the bedding procedure as this may result in a non-uniform transfer of friction material to the rotor surface and a reduction in braking smoothness. The rotor surface may require attention if this occurs. (e.g.ScotchBrite/BrakeKleen).
I was also advised to do 3/4 very high speed down to 20 mph and back to normal driving speeds as well.
Edited by Hughesie on Tuesday 27th February 09:37
Couldn't fully follow the procedure as the higher brake pressures triggered the ABS, managed to get that brake smell with light to medium pressure, so must have warmed them up. Repeated 3 times so we'll see how the feel when conditions allow more aggressive use.
Had a question asked about mileage, so last night zeroed the trip, filled the tank to 'first click'. Drove to Scotland, all motorway miles and stopped at the first petrol station after the fuel warning light came on
325 miles when the fuel warning light came on.
350 miles when at the next shell station.
80 litres to fill to the first click.
From memory these are pretty average numbers for normal everyday driving.
https://www.mpg-calculator.co.uk/
Imperial gallons for above
To convert to US
1 UK MPG is 0.8327 US MPG
Book says 105 ltr tank and 20 reserve
Never known the car to take more than 90.
And pretty accurate to the book reported mileage
325 miles when the fuel warning light came on.
350 miles when at the next shell station.
80 litres to fill to the first click.
From memory these are pretty average numbers for normal everyday driving.
https://www.mpg-calculator.co.uk/
Imperial gallons for above
To convert to US
1 UK MPG is 0.8327 US MPG
Book says 105 ltr tank and 20 reserve
Never known the car to take more than 90.
And pretty accurate to the book reported mileage
After the weather the car is rather dirty. So while visiting a friend her son volunteered to wash the car for me.
Obviously I happy to oblige
And just as obviously it started to rain as soon as he started
Looked a good job
Unless you got up close
Kids! Hahaha
Still, I'm appreciative, rather him than me car washing in the rain
Obviously I happy to oblige
And just as obviously it started to rain as soon as he started
Looked a good job
Unless you got up close
Kids! Hahaha
Still, I'm appreciative, rather him than me car washing in the rain
Edited by cake eater on Saturday 30th March 19:28
Monday I'll be at the British GT4 championship giving a cheer for my friend's son Gordie
https://www.britishgt.com/driver/1142/gordie-mutch
Qualified 5th today and hopefully see him right at the front during the races.
https://www.britishgt.com/driver/1142/gordie-mutch
Qualified 5th today and hopefully see him right at the front during the races.
cake eater said:
After the weather the car is rather dirty. So while visiting a friend her son volunteered to wash the car for me.
Obviously I happy to oblige
Looked a good job
Unless you got up close
Kids! Hahaha
Still, I'm appreciative, rather him than me car washing in the rain
Hah! snow foam is the most overrated cleaning product on the market.Obviously I happy to oblige
Looked a good job
Unless you got up close
Kids! Hahaha
Still, I'm appreciative, rather him than me car washing in the rain
My son is a professional detailer and he won't go near the stuff now but he used to hanker after it when he was an amateur.
It's the epitome of 'all show and no go' (or should that be 'all snow and no go'?).
I also had to chuckle at your host's lovely, spacious, double garage - rendered utterly un-useable for its intended purpose by the piles of cheap stuff stored inside while all the expensive BMW metal sits outside...
ANOpax said:
cake eater said:
After the weather the car is rather dirty. So while visiting a friend her son volunteered to wash the car for me.
Obviously I happy to oblige
Looked a good job
Unless you got up close
Kids! Hahaha
Still, I'm appreciative, rather him than me car washing in the rain
Hah! snow foam is the most overrated cleaning product on the market.Obviously I happy to oblige
Looked a good job
Unless you got up close
Kids! Hahaha
Still, I'm appreciative, rather him than me car washing in the rain
My son is a professional detailer and he won't go near the stuff now but he used to hanker after it when he was an amateur.
It's the epitome of 'all show and no go' (or should that be 'all snow and no go'?).
I also had to chuckle at your host's lovely, spacious, double garage - rendered utterly un-useable for its intended purpose by the piles of cheap stuff stored inside while all the expensive BMW metal sits outside...
And with the new ceramics I am a bit wary of anything but water and a plain pH neutral soap going on them.
Garages often end up that way, just a dumping ground during a renovation and unfortunately never get emptied for the cars to go back in. You should see my Mum's garage, it is like one of those scenes from a movie were the tunnel has collapsed and there is a pile of rubble in front of them and just a tiny gap. Only in this case Mum some how manages to park her car in that tiny gap
Snow foam is meant to be followed by a contact wash using a wash mitt. The idea is you snow foam a car, then rinse the majority of the dirt away, you then do a contact wash to make sure the car is totally clean. Snow foam reduces the risk of scratches by encapsulating dirt particles before been rinsed away.
Obi Wan said:
Snow foam is meant to be followed by a contact wash using a wash mitt. The idea is you snow foam a car, then rinse the majority of the dirt away, you then do a contact wash to make sure the car is totally clean. Snow foam reduces the risk of scratches by encapsulating dirt particles before been rinsed away.
Yes, the rain didn't help but at least I was dry cake eater said:
Monday I'll be at the British GT4 championship giving a cheer for my friend's son Gordie
https://www.britishgt.com/driver/1142/gordie-mutch
Qualified 5th today and hopefully see him right at the front during the races.
Drive down to Oulton Park started out nice but increasingly heavy rain, bank holiday traffic and crashes meant it took nearly 2 hours longer than expected and I only just made it in time to see the second race.https://www.britishgt.com/driver/1142/gordie-mutch
Qualified 5th today and hopefully see him right at the front during the races.
So I dump the car in the first available free spot as soon as I'm through the gate. I realised my big mistake as soon as I'm on the grass, the ticket lady's warning of "be careful it's really muddy" ringing in my ears.
I only just make 'parking' rather than sliding into another parked car. The TC is going crazy, the car doesn't know what to do and even the lightest throttle is spinning the wheels. Any kind of steering lock is like a brake to forward motion.
But at least the sun is coming out.
On the way to meet my friends I see dedicated 'supercar parking' just after the cafe with hard standing and have that Homer moment Doh!
Second race almost turned out to be a disaster with a puncture on the first lap avoiding an incident. Still managed to make 5th place so not too bad a day for my friend's son.
Managed to get the 599 out of the car park with a small push and ice mode. The TC was a lot happier.
On the exit of Oulton were the usual YouTubers so gave a little show. Naughty and childish but made them smile.
Straight off to a jet wash and cleaned the car. Can't have Lee at MDL picking mud out of the car to work in it.
All clean
I think
cake eater said:
Had a question asked about mileage, so last night zeroed the trip, filled the tank to 'first click'. Drove to Scotland, all motorway miles and stopped at the first petrol station after the fuel warning light came on
325 miles when the fuel warning light came on.
350 miles when at the next shell station.
80 litres to fill to the first click.
From memory these are pretty average numbers for normal everyday driving.
https://www.mpg-calculator.co.uk/
Imperial gallons for above
To convert to US
1 UK MPG is 0.8327 US MPG
Book says 105 ltr tank and 20 reserve
Another mpg update, this time 50/50 town and country roads325 miles when the fuel warning light came on.
350 miles when at the next shell station.
80 litres to fill to the first click.
From memory these are pretty average numbers for normal everyday driving.
https://www.mpg-calculator.co.uk/
Imperial gallons for above
To convert to US
1 UK MPG is 0.8327 US MPG
Book says 105 ltr tank and 20 reserve
221 miles
71 litres
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