Minor 355 Oil and Coolant leak
Discussion
My 355 tends to leave a tiny (a few ml of each) puddle of coolant and oil where it's been parked, always in the same place in the garage when i take it out.
I mentioned it to the guy that services it (very well regarded SE England) and he said not to worry about it as the leaks are both so tiny. He said they are coming from the cam covers and that next time he has the engine out he will take the cam covers off and have a look at what's leaking.
The car runs like a dream but it is a nagging worry, what could this be? Anybody got any ideas? I prob done 3k miles in it while this leak has existed and it certainly hasnt got any worse (previous company who serviced it denied existence of the leak and claimed it was just coolant being ejected from header tank, hence not done anything about it previously).
I mentioned it to the guy that services it (very well regarded SE England) and he said not to worry about it as the leaks are both so tiny. He said they are coming from the cam covers and that next time he has the engine out he will take the cam covers off and have a look at what's leaking.
The car runs like a dream but it is a nagging worry, what could this be? Anybody got any ideas? I prob done 3k miles in it while this leak has existed and it certainly hasnt got any worse (previous company who serviced it denied existence of the leak and claimed it was just coolant being ejected from header tank, hence not done anything about it previously).
You mentioned both an oil leak and a coolant leak. Only the oil leak can be coming from the cam cover. There is no coolant in there.
If the coolant is dripping onto the floor on the left hand side of the car near the back of the engine block, then it's probably coming from the overflow pipe which is routed from the coolant cap in the middle of the engine down the left hand side of the gearbox where it meets the engine. This is sometimes caused by a slight overfill of coolant or it can be caused by a failing pressure cap (they have a blow off pressure spring in them, which weakens over time so they may start to release coolant when the pressure rises). If it is either of those two things then it's not a major problem.
However, they are not the only possible explanations, and only a proper investigation will tell you what the cause is. You should at least check the coolant level in the expansion tank when it is cold to make sure it is at the recommended level (which is not "full" I should add).
If the coolant is dripping onto the floor on the left hand side of the car near the back of the engine block, then it's probably coming from the overflow pipe which is routed from the coolant cap in the middle of the engine down the left hand side of the gearbox where it meets the engine. This is sometimes caused by a slight overfill of coolant or it can be caused by a failing pressure cap (they have a blow off pressure spring in them, which weakens over time so they may start to release coolant when the pressure rises). If it is either of those two things then it's not a major problem.
However, they are not the only possible explanations, and only a proper investigation will tell you what the cause is. You should at least check the coolant level in the expansion tank when it is cold to make sure it is at the recommended level (which is not "full" I should add).
The oil leak could be either the rocker cover gaskets or the camshaft oil seals both are an issue on the 348 and the 355, coolant less so sure about. How long before the next engine drop for belts?
If your trusted spanner man says don’t worry, and it’s not getting any worse, your doing low mileage then I’d be prepared to wait until the engine is next out and trust his judgment, if it got worse then maybe re assess and consider having it looked into further.
I’ve a few friends with 348 and 355, and at some point they have all leaked oil and it’s been rocker cover gaskets and camshaft oil seals, the coolant could just be a loose hose or could be from header tank, or radiators i suppose, if it’s not leaking much or getting too hot leave alone for now, all depends how much slee your losing and how long until next major.
My 348 has had both rocker and cam seals done a number of times to the point is almost routine to check with engine out and as they are so cheap to do them each time.
All the best
Andy
If your trusted spanner man says don’t worry, and it’s not getting any worse, your doing low mileage then I’d be prepared to wait until the engine is next out and trust his judgment, if it got worse then maybe re assess and consider having it looked into further.
I’ve a few friends with 348 and 355, and at some point they have all leaked oil and it’s been rocker cover gaskets and camshaft oil seals, the coolant could just be a loose hose or could be from header tank, or radiators i suppose, if it’s not leaking much or getting too hot leave alone for now, all depends how much slee your losing and how long until next major.
My 348 has had both rocker and cam seals done a number of times to the point is almost routine to check with engine out and as they are so cheap to do them each time.
All the best
Andy
Being that your mechanic has already been diagnosed that the oil is from the cam seal.
The water in the middle rules out the radiators. So starting from the simple to more in depth. leaves either the short hose that connects the engine to main metal water tube ( the top tube of the two) that runs across the bulk head. Maybe this just needs tightening, its located left of center and is simple for you to do. There is one hose on the bottom bulk head tube but that's to the right of center and can be tricky to get to if inexperienced.
There is also two short engine to heater matrix hoses that are right of center which is more difficult to reach. This hose comes from the water thermostat which is right in the middle of the engine near the bulk head. Try tightening the hoses on the thermostat its self as well as the x3 10mm nuts that hold the thermostat in place. Also checking that the bleed nipple on top of the thermostat is nipped up to. The thermostat is very easy to get to.
Next the header tank, under the tank make sure the rubber hoses are nipped up as well as the two small bleed hoses at the top of the tank, again easy to get to.
Now worst case the possibilities could be. There is a pair of water tube manifolds inside the valley , they dont usually leak but nipping up the nuts may help. These are tricky to get at, but its possible. Here is a video of a pair of my cylinder heads, at 55 seconds in you can see the water manifolds outlets below the main inlet. https://youtu.be/4PqyusL2hbU
Then finally it could be the water pump seeping from the seep hole. This means your pump will need changing at your next engine out. Although it could be a hose that needs tightening on the water pump body mount. Again if you are not experienced, you cant get to it.
Forget about the water/oil heat exchanger that's located again 8n the valley, this is gear box oil and not engine oil. Besides your water in your header would be a cream.....its not that on your car so dont worry
Now for the good news, if it's only small drips.....leave it and just wait until the major service.
The water in the middle rules out the radiators. So starting from the simple to more in depth. leaves either the short hose that connects the engine to main metal water tube ( the top tube of the two) that runs across the bulk head. Maybe this just needs tightening, its located left of center and is simple for you to do. There is one hose on the bottom bulk head tube but that's to the right of center and can be tricky to get to if inexperienced.
There is also two short engine to heater matrix hoses that are right of center which is more difficult to reach. This hose comes from the water thermostat which is right in the middle of the engine near the bulk head. Try tightening the hoses on the thermostat its self as well as the x3 10mm nuts that hold the thermostat in place. Also checking that the bleed nipple on top of the thermostat is nipped up to. The thermostat is very easy to get to.
Next the header tank, under the tank make sure the rubber hoses are nipped up as well as the two small bleed hoses at the top of the tank, again easy to get to.
Now worst case the possibilities could be. There is a pair of water tube manifolds inside the valley , they dont usually leak but nipping up the nuts may help. These are tricky to get at, but its possible. Here is a video of a pair of my cylinder heads, at 55 seconds in you can see the water manifolds outlets below the main inlet. https://youtu.be/4PqyusL2hbU
Then finally it could be the water pump seeping from the seep hole. This means your pump will need changing at your next engine out. Although it could be a hose that needs tightening on the water pump body mount. Again if you are not experienced, you cant get to it.
Forget about the water/oil heat exchanger that's located again 8n the valley, this is gear box oil and not engine oil. Besides your water in your header would be a cream.....its not that on your car so dont worry
Now for the good news, if it's only small drips.....leave it and just wait until the major service.
Edited by FezSpider on Friday 15th May 10:54
FezSpider said:
Being that your mechanic has already been diagnosed that the oil is from the cam seal.
The water in the middle rules out the radiators. So starting from the simple to more in depth. leaves either the short hose that connects the engine to main metal water tube ( the top tube of the two) that runs across the bulk head. Maybe this just needs tightening, its located left of center and is simple for you to do. There is one hose on the bottom bulk head tube but that's to the right of center and can be tricky to get to if inexperienced.
There is also two short engine to heater matrix hoses that are right of center which is more difficult to reach. This hose comes from the water thermostat which is right in the middle of the engine near the bulk head. Try tightening the hoses on the thermostat its self as well as the x3 10mm nuts that hold the thermostat in place. Also checking that the bleed nipple on top of the thermostat is nipped up to. The thermostat is very easy to get to.
Next the header tank, under the tank make sure the rubber hoses are nipped up as well as the two small bleed hoses at the top of the tank, again easy to get to.
Now worst case the possibilities could be. There is a pair of water tube manifolds inside the valley , they dont usually leak but nipping up the nuts may help. These are tricky to get at, but its possible. Here is a video of a pair of my cylinder heads, at 55 seconds in you can see the water manifolds outlets below the main inlet. https://youtu.be/4PqyusL2hbU
Then finally it could be the water pump seeping from the seep hole. This means your pump will need changing at your next engine out. Although it could be a hose that needs tightening on the water pump body mount. Again if you are not experienced, you cant get to it.
Forget about the water/oil heat exchanger that's located again 8n the valley, this is gear box oil and not engine oil. Besides your water in your header would be a cream.....its not that on your car so dont worry
Now for the good news, if it's only small drips.....leave it and just wait until the major service.
Great post fez. The water in the middle rules out the radiators. So starting from the simple to more in depth. leaves either the short hose that connects the engine to main metal water tube ( the top tube of the two) that runs across the bulk head. Maybe this just needs tightening, its located left of center and is simple for you to do. There is one hose on the bottom bulk head tube but that's to the right of center and can be tricky to get to if inexperienced.
There is also two short engine to heater matrix hoses that are right of center which is more difficult to reach. This hose comes from the water thermostat which is right in the middle of the engine near the bulk head. Try tightening the hoses on the thermostat its self as well as the x3 10mm nuts that hold the thermostat in place. Also checking that the bleed nipple on top of the thermostat is nipped up to. The thermostat is very easy to get to.
Next the header tank, under the tank make sure the rubber hoses are nipped up as well as the two small bleed hoses at the top of the tank, again easy to get to.
Now worst case the possibilities could be. There is a pair of water tube manifolds inside the valley , they dont usually leak but nipping up the nuts may help. These are tricky to get at, but its possible. Here is a video of a pair of my cylinder heads, at 55 seconds in you can see the water manifolds outlets below the main inlet. https://youtu.be/4PqyusL2hbU
Then finally it could be the water pump seeping from the seep hole. This means your pump will need changing at your next engine out. Although it could be a hose that needs tightening on the water pump body mount. Again if you are not experienced, you cant get to it.
Forget about the water/oil heat exchanger that's located again 8n the valley, this is gear box oil and not engine oil. Besides your water in your header would be a cream.....its not that on your car so dont worry
Now for the good news, if it's only small drips.....leave it and just wait until the major service.
Edited by FezSpider on Friday 15th May 10:54
FezSpider said:
Appreciate that 650spider, thankyou 
Aww mate...that was at least an easy half hour type getting it all correct and in a manner that made it easy to understand for the non-gifted.Posts like that is why i am on pistonheads.
Hopefully lots more appreciate input like that and not take them for granted.
I had nothing better to do mate.
I used to post a lot of instructional videos on various forums. But then I could not be bothered, to many arses out there.
I have always worked on my own ferraris (328 & Testa) aas well as Italian motorcycles. In fact I was one of the first to do 355 engine removals at home 15 years ago. There is no part of the 355 that I dont know how to fix/ rebuild from engine rebuilds to body work.
15 years of ownership and it's still my passion. ... but getting up and down under a car takes a while these days lol 
I used to post a lot of instructional videos on various forums. But then I could not be bothered, to many arses out there.
I have always worked on my own ferraris (328 & Testa) aas well as Italian motorcycles. In fact I was one of the first to do 355 engine removals at home 15 years ago. There is no part of the 355 that I dont know how to fix/ rebuild from engine rebuilds to body work.
15 years of ownership and it's still my passion.
... but getting up and down under a car takes a while these days lol The Factory Workshop Manual is available for the F355. It is 3 Volumes plus a supplemental for the Spider..
The official workshop manual is really pretty good, easy to follow and well laid out. It covers every section of the car (including the wiring loom schematics) be it a Euro or US version of the 355 for and including the 2.7 and 5.2 motronic. So quite comprehensive and detailed.
Definitely worth having if you plan to have a 355, as it really gets under the skin of it and gives you a real appreciation of how the different systems in it work. If you like working on your car then they are worth having. When I bought my car, I got lucky as the previous enthusiast owner had taken the trouble to source the factory WSM and just left them in the car for me.
So far, reading the factory WSM has made this Coronavirus stay at home lock-down experience, pass with a little more ease and a little more quick. I never thought that delving into a 3 volume WSM on the F355 would be so enlightening and fun! Can't wait to go out in it!!!!
The official workshop manual is really pretty good, easy to follow and well laid out. It covers every section of the car (including the wiring loom schematics) be it a Euro or US version of the 355 for and including the 2.7 and 5.2 motronic. So quite comprehensive and detailed.
Definitely worth having if you plan to have a 355, as it really gets under the skin of it and gives you a real appreciation of how the different systems in it work. If you like working on your car then they are worth having. When I bought my car, I got lucky as the previous enthusiast owner had taken the trouble to source the factory WSM and just left them in the car for me.
So far, reading the factory WSM has made this Coronavirus stay at home lock-down experience, pass with a little more ease and a little more quick. I never thought that delving into a 3 volume WSM on the F355 would be so enlightening and fun! Can't wait to go out in it!!!!
Edited by MaserCoupe on Sunday 17th May 15:58
^ ^ This BMW A6 ^ ^
All 3 manuals along with the invaluable wiring diagrams. Also a separate 1995 gearbox manual.
I found them very useful for factory spec & tolerances when rebuilding the engine block ( end float, ring gaps ect)
Along with correct factory procedures for all engine/gearbox work.
Have had mine for many years.
Although you dont really need one for engine removals, that's quite straightforward.
I went out for my first run of the year today, cat and fiddle and finishing of at Matlock bath Derbyshire.
All 3 manuals along with the invaluable wiring diagrams. Also a separate 1995 gearbox manual.
I found them very useful for factory spec & tolerances when rebuilding the engine block ( end float, ring gaps ect)
Along with correct factory procedures for all engine/gearbox work.
Have had mine for many years.
Although you dont really need one for engine removals, that's quite straightforward.
I went out for my first run of the year today, cat and fiddle and finishing of at Matlock bath Derbyshire.
Edited by FezSpider on Sunday 17th May 17:28
Can you confirm if the workshop manual is different to my user manual, pictured above, which I believe cam with every car?
eBay search throws up items ranging from £10 to £80, books, CDs, or downloadable PDFs:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrari-F355-Genuine-Wo...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FERRARI-F355-F1-355-WOR...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OFFICIAL-WORKSHOP-Manua...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrari-355-and-F355-Wo...
Let me know please which is the suitable purchase.
BMW A6 said:
Can you confirm if the workshop manual is different to my user manual, pictured above, which I believe cam with every car?
eBay search throws up items ranging from £10 to £80, books, CDs, or downloadable PDFs:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrari-F355-Genuine-Wo...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FERRARI-F355-F1-355-WOR...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OFFICIAL-WORKSHOP-Manua...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrari-355-and-F355-Wo...
Let me know please which is the suitable purchase.
BMW A6 said:
Got me a CD ROM of the x3 workshop manuals.
Hopefully it gets me into, under and taking bits off the car.
Great stuff BMWA6, you’ll really benefit with a WSM. They are very good and really detailed. You’ll encounter some bolts that are stiff and or seized so plenty of penetrating oil, patience and perseverance. You’ll also discover that these 355’s require finesse hands & you’ll discover tight working space, otherwise enjoy and revel in the experience of doing as much as you can in taking care of it yourself. There’s a real and tangible satisfaction in accomplishing things on your own car (even the basic stuff) and the learning experience is hard to put a price on. Personally, I feel I gained and get so much more out of my car for understanding how things work. Why part a, b or c is designed in this way or in that place, the how and why of it’s function. Hopefully it gets me into, under and taking bits off the car.
You’ll get frustrated on some days but persevere and Enjoy! They are a lovely car. Fezspider is right when he says print the WSM. It’s so much easier to refer to in hard copy. All the best.
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