CTEK 5.0 help

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355fiorano

Original Poster:

430 posts

248 months

Saturday 1st September 2018
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I've had the CTEK 5.0 charging my CS for about 3 yrs now. I do however use the car regularly i.e a spin every 2/3 weeks and some track days
Lately it has been giving me error and not charging. When I take the car for a drive though, the battery charges up.
I have been using the standard mode as I had no idea what the AGM mode was. Looking at sme posts it looks like the 360 CS has an AGM battery.
Could I have messed up the battery or the charger by not having it in the right mode?

Consequently, I am using the 355 a lot less and normally isolate the battery so no need for a conditioner. Turns out last time I drove it (1.5months ago), I forgot to turn the isolation switch. Battery is now dead. I put on the CTEK to revive it but the power light goes into flashing mode meaning it is not detecting a battery! I jumped started it and took it for a 30 min drive and even after that no joy. Can a battery be that dead or is my CTEK malfunctioning? Consequently does the 355 have an AGM battery too?

Zadkiel

390 posts

152 months

Sunday 2nd September 2018
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AGM batteries are Absorbent Glass Mat, they store their electrolytes in the aforementioned glass mats instead of liquid so they can be mounted at odd angles. In AGM mode the CTEK charges more slowly at a lower voltage I believe, so yes you could possibly have damaged the battery but it's not guaranteed and it is unlikely that damaged the charger.

It is unlikely the 355 has an AGM battery as they are usually on newer vehicles, I hope they don't anyway because I've been charging our one on normal mode for some time now! smile I'm pretty sure they are normal batteries standard at least. What is likely to be happening is just the battery is too low and CTEK's don't like that. Try putting it on recondition mode and it may be happier to accept the lower starting voltage (on AGM mode for the CS), it should help them any how if they are running a bit low. Also try connecting them straight after driving when the voltage is at it's highest and hopefully they should recognise the battery and do their thing!

355fiorano

Original Poster:

430 posts

248 months

Sunday 2nd September 2018
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Many Thanks Stuart that's very helpful thumbup

POORCARDEALER

8,540 posts

247 months

Monday 3rd September 2018
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My CTEK wont charge a completley dead battery, so I attatch a booster pack to the battery and thn the charger and it then charges.

I have a Genius charger which will charge dead batteries as well, however just bought it so cant confirm

355fiorano

Original Poster:

430 posts

248 months

Monday 3rd September 2018
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Interesting !
I had a thought to do that but was not sure if I may fry anything.

How do you connect them. I have a decent booster to jump-start. Do clamp the battery at the same points with the booster and the CTEK and leave it ... and if so for how long?

I started it and went for a 30 min drive. I connected the CTEK just after that and the battery didn't register. I did put it on Recon and still nothing.

Jules360

1,949 posts

208 months

Monday 3rd September 2018
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Personally I wouldn't mess about wit the electrics and certainly not jump start the car. Too many stories of fried electrics and ECUs and teh like. Take the CTEK and car to a dealer/indie and ask them to take a look.

Could well be far cheaper in the long run.

POORCARDEALER

8,540 posts

247 months

Monday 3rd September 2018
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355fiorano said:
Interesting !
I had a thought to do that but was not sure if I may fry anything.

How do you connect them. I have a decent booster to jump-start. Do clamp the battery at the same points with the booster and the CTEK and leave it ... and if so for how long?

I started it and went for a 30 min drive. I connected the CTEK just after that and the battery didn't register. I did put it on Recon and still nothing.
Yes attatch the booster to the battery points and do the same with the CTEK, it should charge up ok then if you leave it until you have 4 or 4 lights on the CTEK



AmoCS

1,150 posts

225 months

Tuesday 4th September 2018
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Have you looked at the made/model of your battery, I doubt it still has the original and perhaps its not an AGM. Worth a look before further analysis.

Camlet

1,132 posts

155 months

Tuesday 4th September 2018
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FYI, I wouldn't use the battery-off switch.

I was in Maranello last year with my 1997 Ferrari. I had an electrical issue (the alternator was dying) but that wasn't diagnosed and fixed until I was back in the UK, via transporter.

By luck I was across the street from the main factory entrance and Ferrari factory technicians kindly came out to help. They brought a new battery FOC to get me going. As they were fixing the new battery I asked about the battery-off switch (to save juice given the car's distressed state).

They advised I should AVOID using the off switch.

It seems the car's electrical system still needs some juice even when dormant. Not to keep the clock or alarm going (obvious) but for vital electrical components. I'm not a technician but coming from them, the advice was good enough for me.


355fiorano

Original Poster:

430 posts

248 months

Tuesday 4th September 2018
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On the 355 getting to the battery is a chore as you need to take off one of the wheels to access it. These days I'm lucky to get an hour or two every other weekend to drive the cars never mind getting the spanners out!
That's what's got me into this trouble in the first place. Cars just need to be driven more frown

355fiorano

Original Poster:

430 posts

248 months

Tuesday 4th September 2018
quotequote all
Camlet said:
They advised I should AVOID using the off switch.

It seems the car's electrical system still needs some juice even when dormant. Not to keep the clock or alarm going (obvious) but for vital electrical components. I'm not a technician but coming from them, the advice was good enough for me.

Interesting but strange ...
I've had the car for nearly 16 years and have been using the cut off mainly in the 7/8 years where I've been using it less. Never been an issue and main dealers and indies have never warned against it.
The advice was always to give it 5+min at idle after reconnecting to let the electronics re-adjust (which i do). The 360 has a more complex procedure but for the 355 it was quite simple.