355 Service advisory - LH manifold leak
Discussion
Just got my car back from JCT600 in Leeds. No complaints with their service, but they did advise that the LH manifold has sprung a small leak, it's not too bad at the moment, but they said I should change the manifold in the near future. They said car is still OK to drive, but don't leave it too long. Apparently on a 430, this can cause engine damage by sucking bits back in, but not so on a 355. So I will be replacing the manifold, probably in the spring time as it's now back in my garage. This gives me time to figure out the best options. Ferrari quoted me £1800 for the part (+VAT).
I'm half decent with a tool kit and the thought of changing a manifold doesn't scare me. I prefer servicing done at a dealer, but other stuff I'm happy to do myself (to a limit). I don't mind losing some skin off my fingers - it's all part of the experience. So question is....how hard is it to change on a sunny spring day on the driveway? Should I buy a new manifold from say superperformance for about £900, or drop the old one, send it off while it gets reconditioned (2 weeks) for about £500. Also I read that QV (?) do a similar turnaround service.
Then while the exhaust is in bits, should I change the rattly bypass valve, or just go all in and get a tubi back box or similar??
Would like to keep cost reasonably low as I'm looking to do a few other fettling jobs on it this year, though I don't necessarily want to do a "cheap" job, if you know what I mean.
I'm half decent with a tool kit and the thought of changing a manifold doesn't scare me. I prefer servicing done at a dealer, but other stuff I'm happy to do myself (to a limit). I don't mind losing some skin off my fingers - it's all part of the experience. So question is....how hard is it to change on a sunny spring day on the driveway? Should I buy a new manifold from say superperformance for about £900, or drop the old one, send it off while it gets reconditioned (2 weeks) for about £500. Also I read that QV (?) do a similar turnaround service.
Then while the exhaust is in bits, should I change the rattly bypass valve, or just go all in and get a tubi back box or similar??
Would like to keep cost reasonably low as I'm looking to do a few other fettling jobs on it this year, though I don't necessarily want to do a "cheap" job, if you know what I mean.
Sean
I have recently had mine done on the 355 and as I am North of the border I use PK Supercars on the outskirts of Edinburgh.
I cannot recommend Phil highly enough and he has been looking after my 355 for 6 years now.
What I will say is that you should consider doing both manifolds at the same time as if one is blowing the other wont be far behind as was the case with mine. I had mine done during the engine out cam belt service which made access easy but during the removal several manifold studs sheared and required replacement which would be a totally different job in situ on your drive.
PK have a few sets of manifolds for 355, 360 and 430 already refurbished and on an exchange basis hence cutting down your waiting time.
If you wish further details give me a PM and I can give you more details.
Charlie
I have recently had mine done on the 355 and as I am North of the border I use PK Supercars on the outskirts of Edinburgh.
I cannot recommend Phil highly enough and he has been looking after my 355 for 6 years now.
What I will say is that you should consider doing both manifolds at the same time as if one is blowing the other wont be far behind as was the case with mine. I had mine done during the engine out cam belt service which made access easy but during the removal several manifold studs sheared and required replacement which would be a totally different job in situ on your drive.
PK have a few sets of manifolds for 355, 360 and 430 already refurbished and on an exchange basis hence cutting down your waiting time.
If you wish further details give me a PM and I can give you more details.
Charlie
There was a thread sometime around the middle of last year where someone had had them refurbed and coated with all the pictures to go with it, cant remember who posted now.
As above if you shear a stud it could end up an engine out job anyway.
Is it worthwhile considering bringing forward the next belt service and do all at the same time, or if your not going to use the car much maybe hold out until next winter but think I would do now just in case.
As above if you shear a stud it could end up an engine out job anyway.
Is it worthwhile considering bringing forward the next belt service and do all at the same time, or if your not going to use the car much maybe hold out until next winter but think I would do now just in case.
Both manifolds can be accessed through the wheel wells, so it's not a complicated job, but as others have said it could become more complex along the way...
I've been happy with the JP refurb option, however I recently bought some parts from a guy on CS who had some replacement manifolds made by his mate, a company called Originiall Fabrications. I've followed them for a bit on FB and have to say the guy's work looks great. So, another option when you are ringing round for quotes.
By the way, I'm "red wedge" in the linked post, I changed my forum name after discovering it was the name of an 80s socialist protest movement but for some reason it hasn't changed on old threads!
I've been happy with the JP refurb option, however I recently bought some parts from a guy on CS who had some replacement manifolds made by his mate, a company called Originiall Fabrications. I've followed them for a bit on FB and have to say the guy's work looks great. So, another option when you are ringing round for quotes.
By the way, I'm "red wedge" in the linked post, I changed my forum name after discovering it was the name of an 80s socialist protest movement but for some reason it hasn't changed on old threads!
Edited by HardtopManual on Tuesday 6th January 19:34
Thanks for the replies Guys....went out straight after work and just got back. Forgot to mention that one of the manifolds had recently been done when I bought the car 2 years ago (at least that's what I was told) so I'm assuming the LH one is the one that wasn't done. I had a full engine out cambelt service last year that cost me 3 grand, so that's not really an option right now. I had a quick look in the engine bay earlier and it looks like there is plenty of space to work if you take a wheel off. Just a hunch though. However, reading some comments about bolts shearing off.....even if the engine is out, it's still a nightmare if that happens. What are the chances of it happening and what can be done to lessen that chance?
Given that it's playtime in approx. 10-12 weeks, I don't want to wreck my chances of summertime driving by having to take the engine out again. Would you risk it for this year and go for the repair in the autumn?
Given that it's playtime in approx. 10-12 weeks, I don't want to wreck my chances of summertime driving by having to take the engine out again. Would you risk it for this year and go for the repair in the autumn?
F1Sean said:
Thanks for the replies Guys....went out straight after work and just got back. Forgot to mention that one of the manifolds had recently been done when I bought the car 2 years ago (at least that's what I was told) so I'm assuming the LH one is the one that wasn't done. I had a full engine out cambelt service last year that cost me 3 grand, so that's not really an option right now. I had a quick look in the engine bay earlier and it looks like there is plenty of space to work if you take a wheel off. Just a hunch though. However, reading some comments about bolts shearing off.....even if the engine is out, it's still a nightmare if that happens. What are the chances of it happening and what can be done to lessen that chance?
Given that it's playtime in approx. 10-12 weeks, I don't want to wreck my chances of summertime driving by having to take the engine out again. Would you risk it for this year and go for the repair in the autumn?
I've changed many of these over the years and have never sheared/seen a sheared stud. As long as you aren't especially ham-fisted the chances are very slim of this happening. The left hand manifold Is the easiest of the two to change as the oil tank isn't in the way on that side! It's not a particularly hard job, although some of the nuts (in particular the rear two cylinders lower nuts) are awkward to access. I use a range of cut down ratchet spanners, wobbly extensions and crows-feet to speed up the process, although you could manage it by cutting down a couple of 13 or 12 mm (you may have either size ofnut fitted) spanners and a half decent 3/8 socket set and u/j. Once the wheel, wheel arch housing and under tray are removed there is sufficient access to do the job, although you will find it quite uncomfortable to do it on the floor if you don't have access to a ramp. Make sure you order new exhaust olives (they are usually knackered or fall apart when you disturb them) and new bolts. The two bolts with the springs on (securing the manifold to the cat) don't normally want to shift so I normally Dremel through them and fit new ones. If you are a half-competent DIY'er you shouldn't have a problem doing it yourself....Given that it's playtime in approx. 10-12 weeks, I don't want to wreck my chances of summertime driving by having to take the engine out again. Would you risk it for this year and go for the repair in the autumn?
Edited by Cerberaherts on Tuesday 6th January 22:00
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