F360 - manual or f1 ? and some buyer questions
Discussion
Hi,
I currently have a 996 gt2 (which is mostly used on track), and looking at getting a f360 spider for the odd sunday drive which would also include town driving.
I'm unsure on wether to get the manual or f1 gearbox. What are peoples opinions - and how are the service costs?
I read that the f1 had a firmware upgrade in the later models, which can be done on earlier versions - how much is this ? also any performance upgrades on the later models?
What else should I be looking for apart from full service history? what tends to go wrong that I should look for?
Thanks
I currently have a 996 gt2 (which is mostly used on track), and looking at getting a f360 spider for the odd sunday drive which would also include town driving.
I'm unsure on wether to get the manual or f1 gearbox. What are peoples opinions - and how are the service costs?
I read that the f1 had a firmware upgrade in the later models, which can be done on earlier versions - how much is this ? also any performance upgrades on the later models?
What else should I be looking for apart from full service history? what tends to go wrong that I should look for?
Thanks
There's a really good buyers guide tucked away on this site (found it http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=128... as well as many variations of the same question here - worth seeking out
johnnyreggae said:
There's a really good buyers guide tucked away on this site (found it http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=128... as well as many variations of the same question here - worth seeking out
thanks had a read of that. I have searched for forum and quite old posts - was after some more recent feedback - as peoples opinions changejohnnyreggae said:
There's a really good buyers guide tucked away on this site (found it http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=128... as well as many variations of the same question here - worth seeking out
Am afraid our Jonny doesnt like lazy users...F1 or manual question usually triggers a debate of biblical proportions. Do it on Fchat for a laugh...
You need to try both and see what you prefer.
I wanted a manual when I started looking and bought an F1 from a trusted seller. I really like it now as it gives me something different to the other cars I have.
Both are fine for town driving and clutch life appears to be better for manual cars but it really depends where and how they are driven.
You can upgrade the TCU for about £1500 for a new one. Perhaps £500 to £600 is you can find someone who can reliably reflash your current module (and it is late enough hardware to allow it).
Good cars seem to be getting scarcer so don't restrict yourself too much unless you are patient or lucky.
Service costs are about £1000 a year averaged over a 3 year cycle but I bank on £2-£3k per year to cover other items such a brakes, tyres and the odd worn out bit
If you've done your research, ball joints are a weak point, particularly the front ones with eight on the car at £200 each. Ask if they have been replaced recently with Hill Engineering ones.
Look in the coolant tank for any contamination. The transmission oil cooler seems to be a more common occurrence and can make a mess of the box if not caught early.
Otherwise they are pretty solid cars.
M
You need to try both and see what you prefer.
I wanted a manual when I started looking and bought an F1 from a trusted seller. I really like it now as it gives me something different to the other cars I have.
Both are fine for town driving and clutch life appears to be better for manual cars but it really depends where and how they are driven.
You can upgrade the TCU for about £1500 for a new one. Perhaps £500 to £600 is you can find someone who can reliably reflash your current module (and it is late enough hardware to allow it).
Good cars seem to be getting scarcer so don't restrict yourself too much unless you are patient or lucky.
Service costs are about £1000 a year averaged over a 3 year cycle but I bank on £2-£3k per year to cover other items such a brakes, tyres and the odd worn out bit
If you've done your research, ball joints are a weak point, particularly the front ones with eight on the car at £200 each. Ask if they have been replaced recently with Hill Engineering ones.
Look in the coolant tank for any contamination. The transmission oil cooler seems to be a more common occurrence and can make a mess of the box if not caught early.
Otherwise they are pretty solid cars.
M
Edited by mike01606 on Monday 8th December 13:22
Edited by mike01606 on Monday 8th December 13:23
Xps911 said:
many thanks for the comments.
Does the f1 have an auto mode, like pdk/tip tronic, will it change gear if you are near the rev limit? or is it completely manual ?
Yes but full auto mode is pants!Does the f1 have an auto mode, like pdk/tip tronic, will it change gear if you are near the rev limit? or is it completely manual ?
In normal mode it will change up at the redline and change down to prevent the car stalling.
In sport you are free to bounce off the limiter but it will still change down for you but in my opinion at too low revs.
You just drive it as you would a manual.
It also does lovely double declutches in sport.....
Full auto is dreadfull and just about ok if you want to eat an ice cream...allegedly
The best bit is flooring it then changing down in sport mode for an overtake..
Edited by mike01606 on Tuesday 9th December 10:11
mike01606 said:
I wanted a manual when I started looking and bought an F1 from a trusted seller. I really like it now as it gives me something different to the other cars I have.
Exactly the same as our thought process (this is getting scary Mike)As mentioned, keep an open mind and try everything.
mike01606 said:
F1 or manual question usually triggers a debate of biblical proportions. Do it on Fchat for a laugh...
You need to try both and see what you prefer.
I wanted a manual when I started looking and bought an F1 from a trusted seller. I really like it now as it gives me something different to the other cars I have.
Both are fine for town driving and clutch life appears to be better for manual cars but it really depends where and how they are driven.
You can upgrade the TCU for about £1500 for a new one. Perhaps £500 to £600 is you can find someone who can reliably reflash your current module (and it is late enough hardware to allow it).
Good cars seem to be getting scarcer so don't restrict yourself too much unless you are patient or lucky.
Service costs are about £1000 a year averaged over a 3 year cycle but I bank on £2-£3k per year to cover other items such a brakes, tyres and the odd worn out bit
If you've done your research, ball joints are a weak point, particularly the front ones with eight on the car at £200 each. Ask if they have been replaced recently with Hill Engineering ones.
Look in the coolant tank for any contamination. The transmission oil cooler seems to be a more common occurrence and can make a mess of the box if not caught early.
Otherwise they are pretty solid cars.
M
There's a good guy at Foskers Ferrari who will re-flash the F1 ECU...
You need to try both and see what you prefer.
I wanted a manual when I started looking and bought an F1 from a trusted seller. I really like it now as it gives me something different to the other cars I have.
Both are fine for town driving and clutch life appears to be better for manual cars but it really depends where and how they are driven.
You can upgrade the TCU for about £1500 for a new one. Perhaps £500 to £600 is you can find someone who can reliably reflash your current module (and it is late enough hardware to allow it).
Good cars seem to be getting scarcer so don't restrict yourself too much unless you are patient or lucky.
Service costs are about £1000 a year averaged over a 3 year cycle but I bank on £2-£3k per year to cover other items such a brakes, tyres and the odd worn out bit
If you've done your research, ball joints are a weak point, particularly the front ones with eight on the car at £200 each. Ask if they have been replaced recently with Hill Engineering ones.
Look in the coolant tank for any contamination. The transmission oil cooler seems to be a more common occurrence and can make a mess of the box if not caught early.
Otherwise they are pretty solid cars.
M
There's a good guy at Foskers Ferrari who will re-flash the F1 ECU...
Edited by mike01606 on Monday 8th December 13:22
Edited by mike01606 on Monday 8th December 13:23
My three main criteria when I purchased mine:
Full history and as much paperwork as possible (regardless of mileage).
Manual gearbox.
Carbon sports seats.
I ended up purchasing (hardtop) from Tim @ Walkersport, Tim is a wealth of knowledge and I would not hesitate to buy from him again.
The reason I wanted manual, was as a child of the late 70's and 80's this was all I saw on the telly, Magnum PI, Miami Vice etc. The whole gearshift is an experience in a Ferrari, noise, feel and even the look of the stick and gait to me is a piece of historical art. I never grow tired of the manual and would highly recommend one!
The above is just my own view, and wish I had bought one sooner.
Full history and as much paperwork as possible (regardless of mileage).
Manual gearbox.
Carbon sports seats.
I ended up purchasing (hardtop) from Tim @ Walkersport, Tim is a wealth of knowledge and I would not hesitate to buy from him again.
The reason I wanted manual, was as a child of the late 70's and 80's this was all I saw on the telly, Magnum PI, Miami Vice etc. The whole gearshift is an experience in a Ferrari, noise, feel and even the look of the stick and gait to me is a piece of historical art. I never grow tired of the manual and would highly recommend one!
The above is just my own view, and wish I had bought one sooner.
mike01606 said:
Yes but full auto mode is pants!
Full auto is dreadfull and just about ok if you want to eat an ice cream...allegedly
Did not know the 360 F1 had auto mode! The CS did not have auto, paddle shift only, would change down when coming to a standstill if you did not do it manually, but upward it would just hit limiter till you pulled a gear.Full auto is dreadfull and just about ok if you want to eat an ice cream...allegedly
Edited by mike01606 on Tuesday 9th December 10:11
430 has auto.
neil-f said:
Did not know the 360 F1 had auto mode! The CS did not have auto, paddle shift only, would change down when coming to a standstill if you did not do it manually, but upward it would just hit limiter till you pulled a gear.
430 has auto.
Yes, an auto button in the centre console. I think the CS has the 'Less Clutch' )button instead.430 has auto.
It changes gear really really slooooowwwwwly and if you pull either paddle it drops back into manual mode. Pretty useless...
Buy manual, easy trouble free maintenance no ecu worries no clutch issues, great looking gear change knob and if you want the blip on downshifts just double de clutch.
Also if you want to protect your investment a little buy red, with red calipers a black rear challenge grille, obviously do your due diligence when buying, these cars are only going to go up in value, Mike
Also if you want to protect your investment a little buy red, with red calipers a black rear challenge grille, obviously do your due diligence when buying, these cars are only going to go up in value, Mike
mike01606 said:
Yes, an auto button in the centre console. I think the CS has the 'Less Clutch' )button instead.
It changes gear really really slooooowwwwwly and if you pull either paddle it drops back into manual mode. Pretty useless...
CS has "Race " no auto or less clutch whatever that is! It changes gear really really slooooowwwwwly and if you pull either paddle it drops back into manual mode. Pretty useless...
:
Cannot quite believe some of these responses, redlining before changing gears, blipping and banging down the box.
I do not think I for one would want to buy any of the cars being talked about here, if there is one point to be made about the number of previous owners being relevant it would be this one point, if the previous owners all treated the cars like that then surely a One or two owner car would be much better. Mike
I do not think I for one would want to buy any of the cars being talked about here, if there is one point to be made about the number of previous owners being relevant it would be this one point, if the previous owners all treated the cars like that then surely a One or two owner car would be much better. Mike
Cannot quite believe some of these responses, redlining before changing gears, blipping and banging down the box.
I do not think I for one would want to buy any of the cars being talked about here, if there is one point to be made about the number of previous owners being relevant it would be this one point, if the previous owners all treated the cars like that then surely a One or two owner car would be much better. Mike
I do not think I for one would want to buy any of the cars being talked about here, if there is one point to be made about the number of previous owners being relevant it would be this one point, if the previous owners all treated the cars like that then surely a One or two owner car would be much better. Mike
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