classic 911 cleaning tips please
Discussion
hi
I have been trying to find out the best cleaning products and techniques to clean the outside of my 1988 911 in guards red, somebody has mentioned using a clay then a paint restorer then a wax but there are so many products and manufactures on the market its difficult to know what to use and what works best with what
any tips would be helpful, cheers
mike
I have been trying to find out the best cleaning products and techniques to clean the outside of my 1988 911 in guards red, somebody has mentioned using a clay then a paint restorer then a wax but there are so many products and manufactures on the market its difficult to know what to use and what works best with what
any tips would be helpful, cheers
mike
Call Dom at Dodo Juice..a true car cleaning detailing enthusiast who produces a great range of products - everything you could ever need.
I did a lot of research into this subject a while back as was planing on bringing out a range of products under the Richbrook brand. We never did but I learnt a lot about the subject.
I did a lot of research into this subject a while back as was planing on bringing out a range of products under the Richbrook brand. We never did but I learnt a lot about the subject.
I used Swissvax for years but it is getting too expensive. I recently tried a dodo juice tester on my Golf and was very happy with the result. Swissvax have a downloadable guide on their website details the process so worth looking at.
Basically:
Wash and dry (no sponge or leather)
Clay bar and keep the panels lubricated.
Paint clean (polish)
Wax 2 coats
Do same on wheels.
It is all about the prep.
Mine after a bit of cleaning earlier on in the year.

Basically:
Wash and dry (no sponge or leather)
Clay bar and keep the panels lubricated.
Paint clean (polish)
Wax 2 coats
Do same on wheels.
It is all about the prep.
Mine after a bit of cleaning earlier on in the year.

supersport said:
I used Swissvax for years but it is getting too expensive. I recently tried a dodo juice tester on my Golf and was very happy with the result. Swissvax have a downloadable guide on their website details the process so worth looking at.
Basically:
Wash and dry (no sponge or leather)
Clay bar and keep the panels lubricated.
Paint clean (polish)
Wax 2 coats
Do same on wheels.
It is all about the prep.
wow you car looks fab, I had a black supersport a few years ago and regretted selling it. I have a red one now but think the darker colours look great on the turbo body
Mine after a bit of cleaning earlier on in the year.

Basically:
Wash and dry (no sponge or leather)
Clay bar and keep the panels lubricated.
Paint clean (polish)
Wax 2 coats
Do same on wheels.
It is all about the prep.
wow you car looks fab, I had a black supersport a few years ago and regretted selling it. I have a red one now but think the darker colours look great on the turbo body
Mine after a bit of cleaning earlier on in the year.

IME the best clay bar is made by Bilt Hamber - buy direct from a British company - the key advantage is that BH clay bars only need water as a lubricant.
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
Orangecurry said:
IME the best clay bar is made by Bilt Hamber - buy direct from a British company - the key advantage is that BH clay bars only need water as a lubricant.
http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
What is the benefit of not using a lubricant solution?http://www.bilthamber.com/clay-bars
But then you need the special Bilthamburgerr clay bar.
If it delivers better results than other bars with solution than great but if the only benefit is you can you use plain water I don't see a significant advantage and possibly some risk. I guess I just need more explanation/sales marketing about their clay. A clay bar solution can be made quite cheaply too.
I'll check out their webpage.
If it delivers better results than other bars with solution than great but if the only benefit is you can you use plain water I don't see a significant advantage and possibly some risk. I guess I just need more explanation/sales marketing about their clay. A clay bar solution can be made quite cheaply too.
I'll check out their webpage.
I use this clay mitt instead of my BH clay bar now - easier to use in my opinion and the finish is remarkable. Super smooth paintwork in a few strokes.
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Car is garaged, so every 6 months, I will now:
Wash
Clay mitt
Rinse
Wax/sealant
Every other week or two just wash, dry and use a quick detailer spray
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...
Car is garaged, so every 6 months, I will now:
Wash
Clay mitt
Rinse
Wax/sealant
Every other week or two just wash, dry and use a quick detailer spray
PiB said:
But then you need the special Bilthamburgerr clay bar.
If it delivers better results than other bars with solution than great but if the only benefit is you can you use plain water I don't see a significant advantage and possibly some risk. I guess I just need more explanation/sales marketing about their clay. A clay bar solution can be made quite cheaply too.
I'll check out their webpage.
Apart from the fact that overspray and drips on the garage floor are just ....water, the clay bars are very good; I'm not sure what damage you can do with clay? Apart from Cassius.If it delivers better results than other bars with solution than great but if the only benefit is you can you use plain water I don't see a significant advantage and possibly some risk. I guess I just need more explanation/sales marketing about their clay. A clay bar solution can be made quite cheaply too.
I'll check out their webpage.
Indeed. And I'm all for using fewer products if they are truly deemed unnecessary but I thought clay bars were slightly abrasive and so a polymer lubricant solution was a good idea. Do you use distilled water with the Bilt-Hamber? They do recommend a pre-treatment. I'm digressing out of the realm OP perhaps and my own knowledge.
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