944 s2 brake pad warning light
Discussion
I have the brake pad warning light on the dash illuminated. Ive checked the pads which are fine and replaced a broken pad wear sensor which had cracked in its housing in the caliper.
I thought this would solve it but the dash light is still on.
Can i use the old brake pad wear sensor chop the end off and loop it to try in each corner to see which is causing the light to stay on, or is it not that simple.
Any help appreciated.
I thought this would solve it but the dash light is still on.
Can i use the old brake pad wear sensor chop the end off and loop it to try in each corner to see which is causing the light to stay on, or is it not that simple.
Any help appreciated.
rufusgti said:
I have the brake pad warning light on the dash illuminated. Ive checked the pads which are fine and replaced a broken pad wear sensor which had cracked in its housing in the caliper.
I thought this would solve it but the dash light is still on.
Can i use the old brake pad wear sensor chop the end off and loop it to try in each corner to see which is causing the light to stay on, or is it not that simple.
Any help appreciated.
I disconnected all mine in the 944 as regularly had the wheels off anyway, chop the wires going to the sensor twist & heatshrink. I thought this would solve it but the dash light is still on.
Can i use the old brake pad wear sensor chop the end off and loop it to try in each corner to see which is causing the light to stay on, or is it not that simple.
Any help appreciated.
rufusgti said:
.
Can i use the old brake pad wear sensor chop the end off and loop it to try in each corner to see which is causing the light to stay on, or is it not that simple. .
Yes you can.Can i use the old brake pad wear sensor chop the end off and loop it to try in each corner to see which is causing the light to stay on, or is it not that simple. .
It is just a loop of wire that causes the warning light to come on when it gets worn through and breaks the circuit. Did you plug the new one in properly, they need to be pressed in tight to make the circuit?
Twist the two ends of the old sensor together and use it to test your other three sensors, or test the integrity of your other sensors with a voltmeter set to measure the resistance. If it measures infinity your wire is broken
Good stuff
Ultimately on my race car (now has MoT again) I had to find the connections on the back of the dash and jumper the wires into one of the big multiplugs. This worked perfectly. Long story short, I had a break in the loom somewhere I reckon for that circuit but as a race car it hasn't had any pad sensors for about a decade.
Ultimately on my race car (now has MoT again) I had to find the connections on the back of the dash and jumper the wires into one of the big multiplugs. This worked perfectly. Long story short, I had a break in the loom somewhere I reckon for that circuit but as a race car it hasn't had any pad sensors for about a decade.
NJH said:
Good stuff
Ultimately on my race car (now has MoT again) I had to find the connections on the back of the dash and jumper the wires into one of the big multiplugs. This worked perfectly. Long story short, I had a break in the loom somewhere I reckon for that circuit but as a race car it hasn't had any pad sensors for about a decade.
How much of a road car is it now Neil?Ultimately on my race car (now has MoT again) I had to find the connections on the back of the dash and jumper the wires into one of the big multiplugs. This worked perfectly. Long story short, I had a break in the loom somewhere I reckon for that circuit but as a race car it hasn't had any pad sensors for about a decade.
Simon
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