Home servicing Cayenne Turbo - bad idea?
Discussion
Looking through the service/maintenance schedule and it appears my 03 Cayenne Turbo is due a major service, spark plugs and also over due brake fluid change.
A quick call to the local OPC that used to work on my 996 C4S and I'm looking at £870 inc VAT for all the work to be done. Ouchy..
Given the car is likely to be a keeper and have little resale value, is there any harm in buying the service parts and carrying out the service at home? Any one have any experience on undertaking a home service on a Cayenne? Is it tricky at all?
A combination of me, my Dad and my Brother in law means we should have the basic mechanical know how to get it done I would have thought. I expect I can get the service parts for less than £200 and would rather pocket the £670 cash!
A quick call to the local OPC that used to work on my 996 C4S and I'm looking at £870 inc VAT for all the work to be done. Ouchy..
Given the car is likely to be a keeper and have little resale value, is there any harm in buying the service parts and carrying out the service at home? Any one have any experience on undertaking a home service on a Cayenne? Is it tricky at all?
A combination of me, my Dad and my Brother in law means we should have the basic mechanical know how to get it done I would have thought. I expect I can get the service parts for less than £200 and would rather pocket the £670 cash!
You can do quite a lot yourself but you do need to remove engine mounts etc (which require some special tools) to even change all the plugs
Ideally the car needs plugging in to see what fault codes there are and of course without the service history you might spoil the retail value, however on an 03 car that's not really an issue
The fittings are triple square I think and not torque fittings so don't use the wrong tools as they strip easy
Ideally the car needs plugging in to see what fault codes there are and of course without the service history you might spoil the retail value, however on an 03 car that's not really an issue
The fittings are triple square I think and not torque fittings so don't use the wrong tools as they strip easy
The oil change is simple
I did mine by raising the suspension in spec terrain then axle stands just in case, belly pan off , drain plug out then spin filter off
Didn't know about engine mount for plugs but i do now
Only had my 04 turbo a few months but totally love it, much better than my old rs6, but hate the fragile plastic breather hoses around the engine
Stu
I did mine by raising the suspension in spec terrain then axle stands just in case, belly pan off , drain plug out then spin filter off
Didn't know about engine mount for plugs but i do now
Only had my 04 turbo a few months but totally love it, much better than my old rs6, but hate the fragile plastic breather hoses around the engine
Stu
LordHaveMurci said:
Surely a decent Indie would be much cheaper than an OPC & you'd retain some resale value having kept a goog service history?
If you keep decent records I don't see why it should make any difference to resale value on a car of that age.A few years ago, my 348 was due a minor service and I decided to do it myself since I thought the indy charges were unnecessarily high. I kept detailed info about what I'd done - and even posted a step by step on the Ferrari forum with photos. It made zero difference to the resale a year later, and I'd say that was on a car far more sensitive to service history.
Just a few things to bear in mind:
The coil retaining bolts are aluminium and have to be replaced; they were tightened to a specific torque figure - this has now been changed to 4Nm and a further 90 degrees. They are known to snap and are also easily cross threaded.
Budget for ignition coils - they crack and usually fail after being totally reliable until disturbed.
The design cover bolts are also best replaced at the same time - 4.7Nm
There are two sump drain points; you have a 4x4 type sump that retains oil in two places to account for extreme angles in off-road use. 8mm hex bungs; also aluminium and best replaced - 45Nm
With the engine bay covers off:
Check your coolant run on pump - does it run after an up-to-temp drive
Check your vacuum boost pump; pump the brakes with the engine running - it should cut in after 5-6 full presses
The coil retaining bolts are aluminium and have to be replaced; they were tightened to a specific torque figure - this has now been changed to 4Nm and a further 90 degrees. They are known to snap and are also easily cross threaded.
Budget for ignition coils - they crack and usually fail after being totally reliable until disturbed.
The design cover bolts are also best replaced at the same time - 4.7Nm
There are two sump drain points; you have a 4x4 type sump that retains oil in two places to account for extreme angles in off-road use. 8mm hex bungs; also aluminium and best replaced - 45Nm
With the engine bay covers off:
Check your coolant run on pump - does it run after an up-to-temp drive
Check your vacuum boost pump; pump the brakes with the engine running - it should cut in after 5-6 full presses
Pope said:
Just a few things to bear in mind:
The coil retaining bolts are aluminium and have to be replaced; they were tightened to a specific torque figure - this has now been changed to 4Nm and a further 90 degrees. They are known to snap and are also easily cross threaded.
Budget for ignition coils - they crack and usually fail after being totally reliable until disturbed.
The design cover bolts are also best replaced at the same time - 4.7Nm
There are two sump drain points; you have a 4x4 type sump that retains oil in two places to account for extreme angles in off-road use. 8mm hex bungs; also aluminium and best replaced - 45Nm
With the engine bay covers off:
Check your coolant run on pump - does it run after an up-to-temp drive
Check your vacuum boost pump; pump the brakes with the engine running - it should cut in after 5-6 full presses
That is a very good post and summarises why I no longer have the bottle to service anything more complex than my Atco lawn mowerThe coil retaining bolts are aluminium and have to be replaced; they were tightened to a specific torque figure - this has now been changed to 4Nm and a further 90 degrees. They are known to snap and are also easily cross threaded.
Budget for ignition coils - they crack and usually fail after being totally reliable until disturbed.
The design cover bolts are also best replaced at the same time - 4.7Nm
There are two sump drain points; you have a 4x4 type sump that retains oil in two places to account for extreme angles in off-road use. 8mm hex bungs; also aluminium and best replaced - 45Nm
With the engine bay covers off:
Check your coolant run on pump - does it run after an up-to-temp drive
Check your vacuum boost pump; pump the brakes with the engine running - it should cut in after 5-6 full presses
Cheers guys - thanks for the responses and apologies for delayed response.
I got OPC to quote as they were competitive with my 911 and threw in collection/drop off too. However, I've got a quote from a specialist to do all the work and fit two new spare tyres (I have the tyres already) for 500 all in. Given the price of parts is likely to be in the region of 200 pounds I think it's worth having them do it - given the complications and non-straightforward nature of modern cars.
Good to have the useful information though.
I got OPC to quote as they were competitive with my 911 and threw in collection/drop off too. However, I've got a quote from a specialist to do all the work and fit two new spare tyres (I have the tyres already) for 500 all in. Given the price of parts is likely to be in the region of 200 pounds I think it's worth having them do it - given the complications and non-straightforward nature of modern cars.
Good to have the useful information though.
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