GT4 RS/ Spyder RS Experiences, Driving and Technical
Discussion
As we now have a good number of buyers and drivers on PH now - with these cars getting into good hands,
Lets have a thread which discusses Experiences, Driving and Technical Topics.
The topic of availability is essentially dead, due to overs disappearing, speculators leaving the market and good levels of lightly used cars on the market, but If you want to talk values...
Please go to the GT4 RS Availability Thread -> Here which remains open for now, exclusively for you.
On this thread the hope is that we will have discussions and insights from buyers, drivers and enthusiasts, and it is open to both 718 RS models.
As of thread start - October 2024, the 1st 2022 cars are now 2years old and due 1st service or recently had.
There will probably be issues with the cars - not many of them discussed publicly, out of fear of eroding values... but no need to worry about that anymore!
Hope we can also correctly bifurcate myth from reality with respect to ride, intake noise, 'fiddly' roofs, or any other characteristics of the cars that might be overblown or under-reported.
Please share experiences, setup details, meets, modifications, upgrades and tweaks. Hopefully I'm not a lone voice of enthusiasm for 718 RS.
Lets have a thread which discusses Experiences, Driving and Technical Topics.
The topic of availability is essentially dead, due to overs disappearing, speculators leaving the market and good levels of lightly used cars on the market, but If you want to talk values...
Please go to the GT4 RS Availability Thread -> Here which remains open for now, exclusively for you.
On this thread the hope is that we will have discussions and insights from buyers, drivers and enthusiasts, and it is open to both 718 RS models.
As of thread start - October 2024, the 1st 2022 cars are now 2years old and due 1st service or recently had.
There will probably be issues with the cars - not many of them discussed publicly, out of fear of eroding values... but no need to worry about that anymore!
Hope we can also correctly bifurcate myth from reality with respect to ride, intake noise, 'fiddly' roofs, or any other characteristics of the cars that might be overblown or under-reported.
Please share experiences, setup details, meets, modifications, upgrades and tweaks. Hopefully I'm not a lone voice of enthusiasm for 718 RS.
Edited by TDT on Sunday 6th October 22:21
The new menace…
If there was ever a car designed for me… I think this is it.
The specification includes everything you need, and nothing you don’t, for the intended purpose.
A1 Black over Silver wheels with Black Callipers.
IMO a case study for ‘less is definitely more’.
Non-WP - because I have always preferred the cleaner look, and then this budget is reserved for actual performance related mods and consumables as/when required.
Steel brakes, for me no point speccing PCCB only to take them off and put them in a box.
Other options:
Front axle lift, Extended Leather with arctic-grey, Clubsport - of course, Bose, Light design, Smokers package. PDLS +, Race-tex sunvisors, Illuminated door sills, seat mounted extinguisher (as it’s a bit smaller/neater) might change for firestick anyway. Door pulls and seatbelts in black.
Car has already been away for a few visual tweaks (that i have been hinting at) as well as full PPF and coating etc, and track day preparation in progress.
No update on driving impressions until i have validated the setup as they come all wrong from the factory anyway. Only thing to say is that even during early running in…. The car is rapid, and i cannot even open the taps yet.
I had my PEC day a few weeks back in a centre car, and forfeited handling circuit exercises in favour of essentially a 90min extended test drive on local A + B routes and a cruise for a few junctions on the M1.
Back to my car and I was very fortunate to be able to see the car as it landed at dealership and I was able to do the unwrapping myself ahead of PDI.
I also purchased 1L of the new C40-GT oil. £28.30inc
Allocation story is an interesting one. I actually had 2 cars a one point for short while, pre- price rise.
No strings, no games, no overs
The next iteration of the Track Day Toy is here, the new adventure has already begun…
If there was ever a car designed for me… I think this is it.
The specification includes everything you need, and nothing you don’t, for the intended purpose.
A1 Black over Silver wheels with Black Callipers.
IMO a case study for ‘less is definitely more’.
Non-WP - because I have always preferred the cleaner look, and then this budget is reserved for actual performance related mods and consumables as/when required.
Steel brakes, for me no point speccing PCCB only to take them off and put them in a box.
Other options:
Front axle lift, Extended Leather with arctic-grey, Clubsport - of course, Bose, Light design, Smokers package. PDLS +, Race-tex sunvisors, Illuminated door sills, seat mounted extinguisher (as it’s a bit smaller/neater) might change for firestick anyway. Door pulls and seatbelts in black.
Car has already been away for a few visual tweaks (that i have been hinting at) as well as full PPF and coating etc, and track day preparation in progress.
No update on driving impressions until i have validated the setup as they come all wrong from the factory anyway. Only thing to say is that even during early running in…. The car is rapid, and i cannot even open the taps yet.
I had my PEC day a few weeks back in a centre car, and forfeited handling circuit exercises in favour of essentially a 90min extended test drive on local A + B routes and a cruise for a few junctions on the M1.
Back to my car and I was very fortunate to be able to see the car as it landed at dealership and I was able to do the unwrapping myself ahead of PDI.
I also purchased 1L of the new C40-GT oil. £28.30inc
Allocation story is an interesting one. I actually had 2 cars a one point for short while, pre- price rise.
No strings, no games, no overs
The next iteration of the Track Day Toy is here, the new adventure has already begun…
Edited by TDT on Sunday 6th October 19:17
New car preparation from couple weeks back…
De-conned, De-badged, PPF’d and coated.
Start of service duty preparations…
Running-In Update
Busy accumulating the miles during dry-ish breaks in the weather and the 4RS is quite simply a joy at the moment.
Huge sense of occasion… the drivetrain in the small chassis is so immediate, you can sense the energy just beneath the surface. You can feel it in the fibre of the car. RennSpaß indeed.
So far, Zero issue with noise on a longer distance cruise. Can easily ‘make progress’ and listen to my favourite automotive podcasts or listen back to David Rodigan Show.
PASM Sport Chassis provides the best overall ride and control experience based upon the factory setup the car is currently wearing. I then back it off to ‘normal’ if the surface gets a more broken, as it lets the wheels be a bit more free.
My perspective is, of course, relative… coming from 981 GT4 -> 981 GT4 MR -> 718 GT4 MR and now into 4RS
Will soon be able to open the taps more and see whether any of the reported other characteristics show themselves, with more pace and load.
De-conned, De-badged, PPF’d and coated.
Start of service duty preparations…
Running-In Update
Busy accumulating the miles during dry-ish breaks in the weather and the 4RS is quite simply a joy at the moment.
Huge sense of occasion… the drivetrain in the small chassis is so immediate, you can sense the energy just beneath the surface. You can feel it in the fibre of the car. RennSpaß indeed.
So far, Zero issue with noise on a longer distance cruise. Can easily ‘make progress’ and listen to my favourite automotive podcasts or listen back to David Rodigan Show.
PASM Sport Chassis provides the best overall ride and control experience based upon the factory setup the car is currently wearing. I then back it off to ‘normal’ if the surface gets a more broken, as it lets the wheels be a bit more free.
My perspective is, of course, relative… coming from 981 GT4 -> 981 GT4 MR -> 718 GT4 MR and now into 4RS
Will soon be able to open the taps more and see whether any of the reported other characteristics show themselves, with more pace and load.
Running-In Update ...
Still getting used to engine response within the allowable running in rpm range. By the book it’s up to 7k for 1st 932mls/1500km…however I’m really trying to keep to 5.5-6k for the 1st 600mls, then then will start to extend over 7k -8k for the next 600mls.
Probably means I won’t get to use the full range until after RS day in March ‘25… but I’m in no rush… the car isn’t going anywhere, and I’m actually enjoying the process of learning the new engine and gearbox pairing. The acceleration is rabid, response feel like it’s wired to my synapses… It’s alive.
Still getting used to engine response within the allowable running in rpm range. By the book it’s up to 7k for 1st 932mls/1500km…however I’m really trying to keep to 5.5-6k for the 1st 600mls, then then will start to extend over 7k -8k for the next 600mls.
Probably means I won’t get to use the full range until after RS day in March ‘25… but I’m in no rush… the car isn’t going anywhere, and I’m actually enjoying the process of learning the new engine and gearbox pairing. The acceleration is rabid, response feel like it’s wired to my synapses… It’s alive.
Much the same for me, had my car a week and probably won't finish running in until early next year due to limited time to actually drive it each week and then having no desire to drive on Cup 2's on greasy, muddy fen roads during the depths of winter.
Loving the car so far. Gentian blue, WP, Mags, PCCB, Bose. Replaced a 991.1 GT3
Will get geometry done when after running in.
Loving the car so far. Gentian blue, WP, Mags, PCCB, Bose. Replaced a 991.1 GT3
Will get geometry done when after running in.
So i am at 1500 miles.
Today i changed my mags for my alloys, second time Ive done centrelocks. A write up if anyone cares.
Im new to these things.
I am using:
- and extendable breaker bar
- a renntorq torq multipler
- a Wera Click Torque wrench C3 set at 95 ftlbs
- a piece of plywood (30cmx20cmx12mm)
- a woodworking clamp (reversed) 18”
- a Coatic centrelock guide
- a tube of Molylube
It takes about 10-15’ mins per wheel.
I start the car, handbrake on, use the piece of wood against the seat cushion and use the clamp to push the brake pedal down.
Crack off each nut by about a 1/16th of a turn on the ground, then raise each side remove, clean and grease the nut and replace.
Kit is small enough for my rear boot.
Anyone need photos or parts please reply.
Does anyone have a copy of the Porsche approved instructions for centrelocks as I want to make sure I am cleaning and lubing the right bits.
Snowy!
Today i changed my mags for my alloys, second time Ive done centrelocks. A write up if anyone cares.
Im new to these things.
I am using:
- and extendable breaker bar
- a renntorq torq multipler
- a Wera Click Torque wrench C3 set at 95 ftlbs
- a piece of plywood (30cmx20cmx12mm)
- a woodworking clamp (reversed) 18”
- a Coatic centrelock guide
- a tube of Molylube
It takes about 10-15’ mins per wheel.
I start the car, handbrake on, use the piece of wood against the seat cushion and use the clamp to push the brake pedal down.
Crack off each nut by about a 1/16th of a turn on the ground, then raise each side remove, clean and grease the nut and replace.
Kit is small enough for my rear boot.
Anyone need photos or parts please reply.
Does anyone have a copy of the Porsche approved instructions for centrelocks as I want to make sure I am cleaning and lubing the right bits.
Snowy!
Snowy999 said:
So i am at 1500 miles.
Today i changed my mags for my alloys, second time Ive done centrelocks. A write up if anyone cares.
Im new to these things.
I am using:
- and extendable breaker bar
- a renntorq torq multipler
- a Wera Click Torque wrench C3 set at 95 ftlbs
- a piece of plywood (30cmx20cmx12mm)
- a woodworking clamp (reversed) 18”
- a Coatic centrelock guide
- a tube of Molylube
It takes about 10-15’ mins per wheel.
I start the car, handbrake on, use the piece of wood against the seat cushion and use the clamp to push the brake pedal down.
Crack off each nut by about a 1/16th of a turn on the ground, then raise each side remove, clean and grease the nut and replace.
Kit is small enough for my rear boot.
Anyone need photos or parts please reply.
Does anyone have a copy of the Porsche approved instructions for centrelocks as I want to make sure I am cleaning and lubing the right bits.
Snowy!
Do you have an instruction manual ? This is covered in pages 238 to 243 of the 991.2 GT3 Driver's Manual ... I can photograph the pages and post them if you don't already have this ... it's in the Tyres and Wheels section ... (!)Today i changed my mags for my alloys, second time Ive done centrelocks. A write up if anyone cares.
Im new to these things.
I am using:
- and extendable breaker bar
- a renntorq torq multipler
- a Wera Click Torque wrench C3 set at 95 ftlbs
- a piece of plywood (30cmx20cmx12mm)
- a woodworking clamp (reversed) 18”
- a Coatic centrelock guide
- a tube of Molylube
It takes about 10-15’ mins per wheel.
I start the car, handbrake on, use the piece of wood against the seat cushion and use the clamp to push the brake pedal down.
Crack off each nut by about a 1/16th of a turn on the ground, then raise each side remove, clean and grease the nut and replace.
Kit is small enough for my rear boot.
Anyone need photos or parts please reply.
Does anyone have a copy of the Porsche approved instructions for centrelocks as I want to make sure I am cleaning and lubing the right bits.
Snowy!
OK ... here we go:
Because of the interlock it's important that the socket does not slip off the centre lock. I believe that all centre locks are the same ... so no locking wheel nut ! It was suggested to me that a scissor jack be used to support the head of the torque wrench at the correct height of the centre lock both to stop it slipping and to keep it perpendicular to the socket ...
P.S. The centre lock guide is really useful ... not supplied with the car.
Because of the interlock it's important that the socket does not slip off the centre lock. I believe that all centre locks are the same ... so no locking wheel nut ! It was suggested to me that a scissor jack be used to support the head of the torque wrench at the correct height of the centre lock both to stop it slipping and to keep it perpendicular to the socket ...
P.S. The centre lock guide is really useful ... not supplied with the car.
Edited by ChrisW. on Sunday 6th October 22:00
Its a real arse ache having the centre lock wheels luckily I have a full kit that I bought when I had the GT3 that I never sold when I sold the car so hopefully get acquainted with this process although I think with my use of the car it will likely be summer only.
Does the RS come with the Cup 2 or Sport Maxx Tyres? the Cup 2s are horrific in the cold but the Sport Maxx I had on my normal GT4 were actually ok in the cold as long as it was dry.
Does the RS come with the Cup 2 or Sport Maxx Tyres? the Cup 2s are horrific in the cold but the Sport Maxx I had on my normal GT4 were actually ok in the cold as long as it was dry.
fridaypassion said:
Does the RS come with the Cup 2 or Sport Maxx Tyres? the Cup 2s are horrific in the cold but the Sport Maxx I had on my normal GT4 were actually ok in the cold as long as it was dry.
Yep, either Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 or Dunlop Sport Maxx 2. Most seem to be coming with Dunlops at the moment. I have them on mine… will run them until there are done.. will be good to have a baseline, as I’ve decided to relearn everything from scratch again.
TDT said:
Yep, either Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 or Dunlop Sport Maxx 2.
Most seem to be coming with Dunlops at the moment. I have them on mine… will run them until there are done.. will be good to have a baseline, as I’ve decided to relearn everything from scratch again.
I think the Dunlops are much better than the Cup 2 overall Most seem to be coming with Dunlops at the moment. I have them on mine… will run them until there are done.. will be good to have a baseline, as I’ve decided to relearn everything from scratch again.
Great shout on this new topic. I bought a new, manual, GT4 last year and am thinking about moving to an RS but it's a lot of money and so I'm keen to hear people's impressions and experiences.
If anyone's come from a manual 718 GT4 I'd be intrigued to hear how you've found the move to the PDK box. Any regrets?
Cheers
If anyone's come from a manual 718 GT4 I'd be intrigued to hear how you've found the move to the PDK box. Any regrets?
Cheers
FredBasset said:
Much the same for me, had my car a week and probably won't finish running in until early next year due to limited time to actually drive it each week and then having no desire to drive on Cup 2's on greasy, muddy fen roads during the depths of winter.
Loving the car so far. Gentian blue, WP, Mags, PCCB, Bose. Replaced a 991.1 GT3
Will get geometry done when after running in.
I hope, I am not flouting the rule. Would appreciate comparison of the 4RS with GT3 991.1Loving the car so far. Gentian blue, WP, Mags, PCCB, Bose. Replaced a 991.1 GT3
Will get geometry done when after running in.
I moved from a 981GT4 to a 991.2 GT3RS (hence an interloper here) and despite the GT4 box being one of the best, the PDK is better.
I think the reason many find it alien in manual is because in auto it is so very good ... only jarring when you need instant maximum go and then lift ... it takes a little time for the car to realise and change back up but the initial downshifts were far swifter than a manual change would have been unless a planned change.
Hence I drive in auto around town and manual out of town ... just to keep my hand in.
A plus is that there is no need to rev-check a PDK car, flat changes and mid corner changes are an option .... and the car is more economical. Win, win, win ... but no heel and toeing etc.
I think the reason many find it alien in manual is because in auto it is so very good ... only jarring when you need instant maximum go and then lift ... it takes a little time for the car to realise and change back up but the initial downshifts were far swifter than a manual change would have been unless a planned change.
Hence I drive in auto around town and manual out of town ... just to keep my hand in.
A plus is that there is no need to rev-check a PDK car, flat changes and mid corner changes are an option .... and the car is more economical. Win, win, win ... but no heel and toeing etc.
lotusgeek said:
Great shout on this new topic. I bought a new, manual, GT4 last year and am thinking about moving to an RS but it's a lot of money and so I'm keen to hear people's impressions and experiences.
If anyone's come from a manual 718 GT4 I'd be intrigued to hear how you've found the move to the PDK box. Any regrets?
Cheers
Come from a manual 718 GT4 to GT4RS only covered 380 miles so far, bought car then went on holiday for 3 weeks, so run in process may have to wait until after winter, depending on weather etc. If anyone's come from a manual 718 GT4 I'd be intrigued to hear how you've found the move to the PDK box. Any regrets?
Cheers
As for going from manual to PDK, we hired a 4RS for 2 days in Germany & Austria back in June, covered 400 miles, personally much prefer the PDK over manual in our GT4, think it suits the car better & makes for faster progress, but that’s just our opinion. Have to say first time we drove GT4 after hire car I knew its days were numbered.
Different to most on here, won’t be going on track, car will be for Euro trips, certainly no expert driver & probably wouldn’t be a car most 60 year old couples would use for this purpose but we both love it.
Edited by Paul_N on Sunday 6th October 23:36
Gassing Station | Boxster/Cayman | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff