718 Dead Battery - CTEK MXS 7.0 Supply
Discussion
I left my 2021 718 for 2 months in the garage in Italy. Upon returning last week the battery was completely dead. I used the manual key to get into the cockpit. Tried to open the front bonnet but nothing at all. Pulled the positive tag from the fuse box in the footwell and connected a power bank to this and the door latch. Nothing. Left it for a few minutes, still nothing. Changed the power bank for a new fully charged battery and connected this in the same way with jump leads. Left it for 30 mins and tried again...nothing. Purchased the CTEK MX 5.0 charger and the cigarette lighter socket adaptor and plugged this into the socket in the passenger footwell. Mains light comes up green but no orange lights indicating charge is working. After a couple of minutes green light goes out. It seems that this is because the charger doesnt detect a battery and probably this is because the battery voltage has dropped below 2v. the threshold for this charger. I now have the MXS 7.0 arriving tomorrow that has the 'Supply Program' option that will work regardless of battery voltage and I plan to try that.
My question is if anyone has had a similar experience and if I am missng something...I am surprised that after only 2 months the battery voltage is apparantly below 2v. I have read some posts that suggests that the doors need to be open, or closed, or locked, otherwise the system shuts down and you cant charge through the 12v socket? Does anyone have any more information on this?
I hope someone can help otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and remove the left front wheel and inner wing trim and find the manual pull, or call the local POC!
My question is if anyone has had a similar experience and if I am missng something...I am surprised that after only 2 months the battery voltage is apparantly below 2v. I have read some posts that suggests that the doors need to be open, or closed, or locked, otherwise the system shuts down and you cant charge through the 12v socket? Does anyone have any more information on this?
I hope someone can help otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and remove the left front wheel and inner wing trim and find the manual pull, or call the local POC!
Edited by N1KKX on Monday 15th January 18:21
N1KKX said:
I left my 2001 718 for 2 months in the garage in Italy. Upon returning last week the battery was completely dead. I used the manual key to get into the cockpit. Tried to open the front bonnet but nothing at all. Pulled the positive tag from the fuse box in the footwell and connected a power bank to this and the door latch. Nothing. Left it for a few minutes, still nothing. Changed the power bank for a new fully charged battery and connected this in the same way with jump leads. Left it for 30 mins and tried again...nothing. Purchased the CTEK MX 5.0 charger and the cigarette lighter socket adaptor and plugged this into the socket in the passenger footwell. Mains light comes up green but no orange lights indicating charge is working. After a couple of minutes green light goes out. It seems that this is because the charger doesnt detect a battery and probably this is because the battery voltage has dropped below 2v. the threshold for this charger. I now have the MXS 7.0 arriving tomorrow that has the 'Supply Program' option that will work regardless of battery voltage and I plan to try that.
My question is if anyone has had a similar experience and if I am missng something...I am surprised that after only 2 months the battery voltage is apparantly below 2v. I have read some posts that suggests that the doors need to be open, or closed, or locked, otherwise the system shuts down and you cant charge through the 12v socket? Does anyone have any more information on this?
I hope someone can help otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and remove the left front wheel and inner wing trim and find the manual pull, or call the local POC!
Could be the original 22 year old battery is just dead.My question is if anyone has had a similar experience and if I am missng something...I am surprised that after only 2 months the battery voltage is apparantly below 2v. I have read some posts that suggests that the doors need to be open, or closed, or locked, otherwise the system shuts down and you cant charge through the 12v socket? Does anyone have any more information on this?
I hope someone can help otherwise I will have to bite the bullet and remove the left front wheel and inner wing trim and find the manual pull, or call the local POC!
Hang on a minute... 2001... 718...???
The system shuts down the 12v socket 30 minutes after Ignition Off.
So to charge via that method just connect and start charging before that happens. The 12v socket will then stay live indefinitely.
However, if you can't get the ignition to turn on then obviously that won't work.
If your battery really has dropped to 2v then it is dead, I would not attempt to charge it in the car.
If it really is 2v and you want to try raising the dead... remove it from the car and charge it somewhere safe.
So to charge via that method just connect and start charging before that happens. The 12v socket will then stay live indefinitely.
However, if you can't get the ignition to turn on then obviously that won't work.
If your battery really has dropped to 2v then it is dead, I would not attempt to charge it in the car.
If it really is 2v and you want to try raising the dead... remove it from the car and charge it somewhere safe.
Edited by M11rph on Monday 15th January 18:41
That’s my next step but of course the locking wheel nut socket is in the front boot. I believe it’s an ABC59 type socket I’m going to need to get the wheel off, and a jack that goes low enough to get under the car.
I’m surprised by the low 2v battery level after only 2 months and the power to the fuse box positive not working which is why I wondered if there’s some form of ‘lock out’ at work here.
I’m surprised by the low 2v battery level after only 2 months and the power to the fuse box positive not working which is why I wondered if there’s some form of ‘lock out’ at work here.
Yep. There is a release cable behind the left side wheel arch lining however you will need to take the wheel off to take the liner out howevever, you may be able to take it out if you jack the car up but it will be a PITA.
The first thing I did when I got my 718 was take the locking wheel nut out of the frunk and put it in the glove box.
I agree with others, the battery is most probably dead as a dodo but the question is what has drained the battery over a 2 month period? This would be my first concern. Replace the battery with a new one and take it from there.
The first thing I did when I got my 718 was take the locking wheel nut out of the frunk and put it in the glove box.
I agree with others, the battery is most probably dead as a dodo but the question is what has drained the battery over a 2 month period? This would be my first concern. Replace the battery with a new one and take it from there.
Everybody talks about the sockets going dead after 30mins but on my 718 GT4, plugging into either outlet (passenger footwell or centre console) and it stays charging. Dive left it for a few weeks before and then unlocked and plugged it in this way without touching the ignition and it worked.
OP - are you sure that you are getting a good earth when going via the fuse box? That would be my first thought? Secondly I’m sure I’ve read before that once connected people had to leave for ~15mins like this before it would open.
OP - are you sure that you are getting a good earth when going via the fuse box? That would be my first thought? Secondly I’m sure I’ve read before that once connected people had to leave for ~15mins like this before it would open.
Is the 2v minimum really so.
I have the same charger and used it successfully on my wife’s Focus battery which was showing 1.4V on a multi-meter.
Initially I tried using a CTek extension lead but this failed to deliver anything to the battery.
I took the extension lead out of the equation and then left it on “recondition” mode overnight and all is good now.
This was just last week.
I have the same charger and used it successfully on my wife’s Focus battery which was showing 1.4V on a multi-meter.
Initially I tried using a CTek extension lead but this failed to deliver anything to the battery.
I took the extension lead out of the equation and then left it on “recondition” mode overnight and all is good now.
This was just last week.
I agree I am suspicious about the 2v as well. I only say this is the state of charge as this is apparently the voltage below which the MX5 charger believes there is no battery attached. When you charged your wife’s car did any of the amber charge lights come on?
I also wonder about the earth connection. I’ve tried many times and ‘wiggled’ it about a number of times. I’m going to give it one last go tonight with the new donor battery and jump leads as well as try the MXS7 through the passenger 12v socket. If this doesn’t work then I’m just going to call the Porsche guys out.
As a final thought the ignition key is currently stuck in the ignition in the off position. I will also try to remove this tonight by popping the cover off and using the ‘pick’ that is apparently also in the fuse box. I now wonder if this is also having any effect?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.
I also wonder about the earth connection. I’ve tried many times and ‘wiggled’ it about a number of times. I’m going to give it one last go tonight with the new donor battery and jump leads as well as try the MXS7 through the passenger 12v socket. If this doesn’t work then I’m just going to call the Porsche guys out.
As a final thought the ignition key is currently stuck in the ignition in the off position. I will also try to remove this tonight by popping the cover off and using the ‘pick’ that is apparently also in the fuse box. I now wonder if this is also having any effect?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.
Have a look here - https://www.718forum.com/threads/tool-on-inside-of...
Does sound like the key being in there might be locking out the system from enabling you to enter it.
Out of curiosity, how did the key get in there in the first place? Could the ignition have been on which drained the battery?
Does sound like the key being in there might be locking out the system from enabling you to enter it.
Out of curiosity, how did the key get in there in the first place? Could the ignition have been on which drained the battery?
Tony B2 said:
Is the 2v minimum really so.
I have the same charger and used it successfully on my wife’s Focus battery which was showing 1.4V on a multi-meter.
Initially I tried using a CTek extension lead but this failed to deliver anything to the battery.
I took the extension lead out of the equation and then left it on “recondition” mode overnight and all is good now.
This was just last week.
Interesting comment.I have the same charger and used it successfully on my wife’s Focus battery which was showing 1.4V on a multi-meter.
Initially I tried using a CTek extension lead but this failed to deliver anything to the battery.
I took the extension lead out of the equation and then left it on “recondition” mode overnight and all is good now.
This was just last week.
My cars have been put away and on CTEKs for a couple of months as we are away in Spain.
My Macan kept reaching level 5 on the CTEK then the dreaded red light came on which indicates a battery problem.
I just happened to take out the CTEK extension lead and connect the charger directly to the battery eyelet connector and it's gone through the whole cycle and seems to be holding at level 7 after a week from what I can see from my CCTV camera.
I do wonder if sometimes the CTEK extension lead causes issues?
OK . Listen up . I had exactly the same problem as you last week . Left my GT4RS locked up in garage and forgot to put it on the CTek MX5 charger for about 7 weeks since last starting it.
There was just enough battery to open the car but otherwise it was dead. I inserted the key, but then couldn't remove it. I tried plugging the Ctek into both the cigar lighter and footwell sockets but after a minute the charger light flashed indicating battery not found. You need to connect the Ctek direct to the battery because it is so flat. So you have to open the front hood. I got a battery out of my Golf and connected to the pull-out +ve terminal in the drivers side footwell fusebox and earth to the door checkstrap. Flick the bonnet switch and your in. Connect the charger crocodile clips, red to the +ve battery post
and -ve to the windscreen motor earth post and leave on charge for at least 24 hours. I'll be topping up the charge regularly in future via the footwell socket.
There was just enough battery to open the car but otherwise it was dead. I inserted the key, but then couldn't remove it. I tried plugging the Ctek into both the cigar lighter and footwell sockets but after a minute the charger light flashed indicating battery not found. You need to connect the Ctek direct to the battery because it is so flat. So you have to open the front hood. I got a battery out of my Golf and connected to the pull-out +ve terminal in the drivers side footwell fusebox and earth to the door checkstrap. Flick the bonnet switch and your in. Connect the charger crocodile clips, red to the +ve battery post
and -ve to the windscreen motor earth post and leave on charge for at least 24 hours. I'll be topping up the charge regularly in future via the footwell socket.
JurassicGTS said:
Tony B2 said:
Is the 2v minimum really so.
I have the same charger and used it successfully on my wife’s Focus battery which was showing 1.4V on a multi-meter.
Initially I tried using a CTek extension lead but this failed to deliver anything to the battery.
I took the extension lead out of the equation and then left it on “recondition” mode overnight and all is good now.
This was just last week.
Interesting comment.I have the same charger and used it successfully on my wife’s Focus battery which was showing 1.4V on a multi-meter.
Initially I tried using a CTek extension lead but this failed to deliver anything to the battery.
I took the extension lead out of the equation and then left it on “recondition” mode overnight and all is good now.
This was just last week.
My cars have been put away and on CTEKs for a couple of months as we are away in Spain.
My Macan kept reaching level 5 on the CTEK then the dreaded red light came on which indicates a battery problem.
I just happened to take out the CTEK extension lead and connect the charger directly to the battery eyelet connector and it's gone through the whole cycle and seems to be holding at level 7 after a week from what I can see from my CCTV camera.
I do wonder if sometimes the CTEK extension lead causes issues?
N1KKX said:
I agree I am suspicious about the 2v as well. I only say this is the state of charge as this is apparently the voltage below which the MX5 charger believes there is no battery attached. When you charged your wife’s car did any of the amber charge lights come on?
I also wonder about the earth connection. I’ve tried many times and ‘wiggled’ it about a number of times. I’m going to give it one last go tonight with the new donor battery and jump leads as well as try the MXS7 through the passenger 12v socket. If this doesn’t work then I’m just going to call the Porsche guys out.
As a final thought the ignition key is currently stuck in the ignition in the off position. I will also try to remove this tonight by popping the cover off and using the ‘pick’ that is apparently also in the fuse box. I now wonder if this is also having any effect?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.
When attempting to charge with the extension lead in place, the charger initially showed the first ("Try") LED flashing, but after a while (not sure how long because I did not keep watching it, in the freezing cold outside) this extinguished and subsequently the "!" LED came on (can't remember whether it was flashing, or continuous). This happened regardless of charging mode.I also wonder about the earth connection. I’ve tried many times and ‘wiggled’ it about a number of times. I’m going to give it one last go tonight with the new donor battery and jump leads as well as try the MXS7 through the passenger 12v socket. If this doesn’t work then I’m just going to call the Porsche guys out.
As a final thought the ignition key is currently stuck in the ignition in the off position. I will also try to remove this tonight by popping the cover off and using the ‘pick’ that is apparently also in the fuse box. I now wonder if this is also having any effect?
Thanks to everyone for the helpful comments.
Without the extension lead - which I have used successfully whilst charging my Spyder - it charged with no problem, and the battery has been fine since, in spite of the cold weather and numerous short runs.
I reckon the extension lead connectors are to blame, and possibly when cold, the plastic shrinks slightly, there is a less reliable connection between the metal parts, causing increased resistance (?) and the charger, being "smart" interprets this as a problem, and gives up trying.
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