Power in the rear view mirror pod
Discussion
If you have auto dimming rear mirror you can take a feed from that. From what I can remember the cable is the one on the right if you take the cover off.
A video that may help
https://youtu.be/iOJ1nP2t6PM
A video that may help
https://youtu.be/iOJ1nP2t6PM
Edited by scrounger73 on Tuesday 16th May 16:39
Just as a follow up for anyone interested, there is permanent power in the roof light cluster. I tapped into the red and black wires of the 3 pin plug that feeds the light module/assy (which simply unclips from the roof with some care...2 metal clips at back and one each side at front...use a credit card to press them, youtube videos are already available showing this).
There is just about room in the right side void (in the plastic windscreen surround) to pop a small 12V to 5V DCDC conveter and fuse and then run the power feed cable (USB C for me) through the convenient little notch at the lower middle of the surround frame, to get down behind the mirror.
The only issue I've hit is that the DCDC must be making some elecrical noise and its messed up the DAB and FM radio receiption :O Just realised that the screen has the antenna integrated of course and so I'll bet its screaming away right into it. Will try another type of converter and this time i'll shield it with some conductive tape and heat-shrink.
Overall quite a neat job, and means that dashcam can enter low power G triggered mode after car is left for 5 mins.
Update to add that if anyone wants to make up a cable to allow them to split out the power without touching anything original, the connectors are made by TE Connectivity and the two parts are 1-1718346-1 "plug" and 1-968700-1 "inline socket". There are pin and skt crimps also needed but you can find those from e.g. Farnell to suit your wires. Simple job...red/black/puple straight across and split off the red and black as needed. Non-permanent plug-in solution to get permanent 12V to feed a dashcam
There is just about room in the right side void (in the plastic windscreen surround) to pop a small 12V to 5V DCDC conveter and fuse and then run the power feed cable (USB C for me) through the convenient little notch at the lower middle of the surround frame, to get down behind the mirror.
The only issue I've hit is that the DCDC must be making some elecrical noise and its messed up the DAB and FM radio receiption :O Just realised that the screen has the antenna integrated of course and so I'll bet its screaming away right into it. Will try another type of converter and this time i'll shield it with some conductive tape and heat-shrink.
Overall quite a neat job, and means that dashcam can enter low power G triggered mode after car is left for 5 mins.
Update to add that if anyone wants to make up a cable to allow them to split out the power without touching anything original, the connectors are made by TE Connectivity and the two parts are 1-1718346-1 "plug" and 1-968700-1 "inline socket". There are pin and skt crimps also needed but you can find those from e.g. Farnell to suit your wires. Simple job...red/black/puple straight across and split off the red and black as needed. Non-permanent plug-in solution to get permanent 12V to feed a dashcam
Edited by PetrolHeadPete on Wednesday 28th June 12:02
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