987.1 S catalytic converters

[Caddyshack]

I have a 117,000 mile S. every now and then it throws an EML and the code is always one of the lambda probes. I understand that there may be 4 cats on these cars and as they age they take longer to react so the probes throw faults. I had a remap done to remove the secondary cat lambda codes but it still does it despite taking it back for a second go.

I am now wondering what solutions there are. I could just sell the car but I don’t want to pass it on with a problem and hiding it by resetting the obd2 is not on (I think that is what the previous owner did to me)

I guess new sports cats are a possible solution but quite expensive on a car that is worth around £9k ish. I like driving the car but don’t drive it that often.

Anyone had this and solved it? Do I have to change 4 cats? - maybe there are only 2? I have been googling and cannot find enough info.

[Caddyshack]

It is a 2006 car BTW

[tracydeedance]

From my understanding on the Gen1 987 Cayman / Boxster it has 2 cats joined to the manifolds so you would need the mainfold type Cats .
If codes keep coming up and Lambas been replaced or deemed fit for purpose it's probably a cat .the code should tell you what bank is throwing up the eml light.

[Caddyshack]

tracydeedance said:

From my understanding on the Gen1 987 Cayman / Boxster it has 2 cats joined to the manifolds so you would need the mainfold type Cats .
If codes keep coming up and Lambas been replaced or deemed fit for purpose it's probably a cat .the code should tell you what bank is throwing up the eml light.

Thank you

Yes, I replaced the lambdas. It does say the bank in question.

If it’s just the 2 then I may put some race cats on it but it is a loud exhaust already so may need to adapt. I didn’t really want to spend thousands on it as I don’t use it all that much but clearly it needs sorting out.

[tracydeedance]

Caddyshack said:

Thank you

Yes, I replaced the lambdas. It does say the bank in question.

If it’s just the 2 then I may put some race cats on it but it is a loud exhaust already so may need to adapt. I didn’t really want to spend thousands on it as I don’t use it all that much but clearly it needs sorting out.

Being a manifold and Cat combined they will be more expensive my Porsche mechanic told me in some case sport cats can still throw up error codes plus if sport cats are fitted it will need a re flash so more money.
Least expensive route is to get a used manifold cat for the offending side probably from a Porsche breakers.
Good luck

[Caddyshack]

tracydeedance said:

Caddyshack said:

Thank you

Yes, I replaced the lambdas. It does say the bank in question.

If it’s just the 2 then I may put some race cats on it but it is a loud exhaust already so may need to adapt. I didn’t really want to spend thousands on it as I don’t use it all that much but clearly it needs sorting out.

Being a manifold and Cat combined they will be more expensive my Porsche mechanic told me in some case sport cats can still throw up error codes plus if sport cats are fitted it will need a re flash so more money.
Least expensive route is to get a used manifold cat for the offending side probably from a Porsche breakers.
Good luck

Thanks, mine has got a map that should deal with a a sports cat but these things are never simple. I am inclined to agree that a company like porschapart can probably supply an oe one and hope it is ok. The removed cat will have a second hand scrap value.

[edc]

The remaps for sports cats often delete the rear lambda monitoring. If you had that you wouldn't have your current problem. I ha e had sports cats for quite a few years now and map aside the only long term effective thing I have found is the right angled lambda spacer.

[Caddyshack]

edc said:

The remaps for sports cats often delete the rear lambda monitoring. If you had that you wouldn't have your current problem. I ha e had sports cats for quite a few years now and map aside the only long term effective thing I have found is the right angled lambda spacer.

I had a remap to remove the rear lambdas, it lasted about 3 weeks then threw the same code so I took it back again and they did some extra file work. I had explained all along that I did not care about power, I just wanted the lambdas gone. It lasted about 4 weeks then threw the codes again and it was a really big and reputable tuning firm that did it (the car went much better and produced about 13hp more)

I contacted them again but this time got the response of "you ought to fix the problem on the car" - I could tell they were fed up. I sort of see their point but it is more like a lazy cat than anything else.


I have also added the right angles lambda extension on one side but the mechanic struggled on the other side and thought that if he snapped the sensor we could then need the manifolds off and he said they often snap studs at that point and it becomes a big job....SO, thanks to your post it has reminded me that the lambda on that side has never been replaced so would make sense to get it out, replace it and fit the extension and then see what happens...I can do it myself and if it does break I may as well roll up my sleeves and get stuck in.

I understand that chopping off the lambda wires allows a socket to go over top which can help removal...I will see if I can get my oxy gas torch in there without setting fire to the car.

[edc]

I re-read your first post and logically it must be one of your pre cat lambdas throwing the code if the rears have been mapped out. If that is the case then there is an underlying problem. At 117k it could be corrosion or an air leak.

[Caddyshack]

edc said:

I re-read your first post and logically it must be one of your pre cat lambdas throwing the code if the rears have been mapped out. If that is the case then there is an underlying problem. At 117k it could be corrosion or an air leak.

Useful. I am not 100% convinced they mapped out the second lambdas correctly. I think I will have to get the spanners out and work through it…sadly chucking some money at changing suspect items. I will check the fault code again and then head there. Corrosion or air leak could be a likely cause too.