Helping me like the 986S

[Skyedriver]

Hi, you may recall me looking for a 986S in the "Poverty" forum.
I've had it a few weeks now and for whatever reasons I'm not "gelling" with it like I thought I would.
Can't put my finger on it totally, I know the tyres want replacing, 5 years old but cracking around the treads, Potenza S02A (which were never popular with the TVR crowd).
Think it's the height of the steering wheel that just bugs me. It seems high compared to everything else I've driven over the last 52 years. It only adjusts in and out not up and down. Is there some form of "bracket" or spacer like used to be sold for minis and Imps to lower the column? Or do I try and raise the seat - spacers under the runners?
I drove the car 550 miles home after I bought it and have done a few trips out up here but when I had a 500 mile round trip a couple of weeks ago I took the old Lotus Excel rather than the Boxster.....

[aceofspades1]

There is a mod to remove the lower middle dashboard area,

[Skyedriver]

Will that lower the steering wheel/column a little?

[esotericar]

The last thing you'd want to do is raise the seat. It's already too high in the 986.

[mr pg]

Most people want the option to raise the wheel or lower the seat in a 986/996 as the wheel is too low for many. I'm only 5'8" but find the space between wheel and thigh too small even with seat on its lowest.
Definitely replace the tyres and consider getting the geo checked.

[Semmelweiss]

New tyres (I've been using Nankangs on 17" for years now. I need something when I couldn't find "N" rated in stock at the time).
Geo set-up.
Read and reset any codes.

You aren't revving it high enough. The excitement starts when it starts to howl.

[witko999]

I've sold my Boxster now but I'm about 80% sure that the steering wheel went up and down as well as fore and aft.,

[Yourmumsmum]

A dished Momo steering wheel might solve the driving position problem if you can live without the airbag.

I was underwhelmed by my 996 when I first got it and didn’t understand why everyone raves about Porsches - it was crashy over almost any road and the steering was vague. Then I committed to refreshing the suspension components - it wasn’t cheap but was good value as it completely transformed the car and my enjoyment. It might be that your car is in a similar way.

The M030 kit was surprisingly low cost from the dealer and I got an independent to fit it as well as replace coffin arms and bushes. It cost ~£2-3k about 8 years ago but still feels fresh after 35k miles so cost per smile is very low.

My view is spend at the beginning of ownership and enjoy a properly set up car rather than replacing key components at MOT failure/end of ownership - the components degrade a long time before they fail. You may not need to replace all at once and could perhaps do it gradually but my experience is these things are only as good as their weakest part.

[Skyedriver]

Cheers, new tyres should be the first move as the cracking was picked up on the MoT before I bought it and I'm well aware old tyres are a nightmare (TVR experiences!)
What's the preferences here? Currently Potenza SA2A at 225/40ZR18 & 265/35/ZR18, I remember Potenza on my first TVR 20+ year ago, they were OK but thought more recent versions weren't so good??
A lot of folk recommend the Pilot S4.
I'm west coast Scotland and while it's not out that often in the rain we do get more than our fair share. Anyone tried Rainsport 5?
Thanks

[Yourmumsmum]

I’m in SW Scotland and use Michelin PS4 - haven’t found anything better for any car.

[SE24]

Yourmumsmum said:

A dished Momo steering wheel might solve the driving position problem if you can live without the airbag.

I was underwhelmed by my 996 when I first got it and didn’t understand why everyone raves about Porsches - it was crashy over almost any road and the steering was vague. Then I committed to refreshing the suspension components - it wasn’t cheap but was good value as it completely transformed the car and my enjoyment. It might be that your car is in a similar way.

The M030 kit was surprisingly low cost from the dealer and I got an independent to fit it as well as replace coffin arms and bushes. It cost ~£2-3k about 8 years ago but still feels fresh after 35k miles so cost per smile is very low.

My view is spend at the beginning of ownership and enjoy a properly set up car rather than replacing key components at MOT failure/end of ownership - the components degrade a long time before they fail. You may not need to replace all at once and could perhaps do it gradually but my experience is these things are only as good as their weakest part.

Can I ask what milage / age the car was at when you replaced and noticed the difference?

[Skyedriver]

Yourmumsmum said:

I’m in SW Scotland and use Michelin PS4 - haven’t found anything better for any car.

Thanks, note there's a PS5 now I think, seems to use some reclaimed stuff??

[BS62]

Skyedriver said:

Can't put my finger on it totally, I know the tyres want replacing, 5 years old but cracking around the treads

If my experience was anything to go by those tyres will be ruining the whole thing.

Mine was on old P Zeros at the front. They were perished, feathered, cracked, hard, and horrible. They were so loud at speed I thought it had a knackered wheelbearing. I fitted new fronts (replacement P Zeros, everyone gets so upset about n-rated tyres on older cars but I couldn't get 4 michelins at the time and the rear Pzeros were still young so I kept it all matching), had a 4 wheel alignment done, and honestly, you wouldn't have known it was the same car when it came back.

It made me laugh because based on the folder of receipts and the age of those tyres, the last two owners will have had absolutely no idea how the car was actually supposed to feel.

Skyedriver said:

Think it's the height of the steering wheel that just bugs me. It seems high compared to everything else I've driven over the last 52 years. It only adjusts in and out not up and down.

I also found that a bit weird - the wheel is a bit bus-like - but got used to it pretty quickly. I fitted a Momo Mod07 which helps a little bit (dished, and a few mm smaller).

[shalmaneser]

Skyedriver said:

Yourmumsmum said:

I’m in SW Scotland and use Michelin PS4 - haven’t found anything better for any car.

Thanks, note there's a PS5 now I think, seems to use some reclaimed stuff??

I've got Goodyear Asymmetric 5's which are a little cheaper and also seem to get very good reviews. Think the 6 is now available too.

New tyres will make all the difference.

[Skyedriver]

BS62 said:

Skyedriver said:

Can't put my finger on it totally, I know the tyres want replacing, 5 years old but cracking around the treads

If my experience was anything to go by those tyres will be ruining the whole thing.

Mine was on old P Zeros at the front. They were perished, feathered, cracked, hard, and horrible. They were so loud at speed I thought it had a knackered wheelbearing. I fitted new fronts (replacement P Zeros, everyone gets so upset about n-rated tyres on older cars but I couldn't get 4 michelins at the time and the rear Pzeros were still young so I kept it all matching), had a 4 wheel alignment done, and honestly, you wouldn't have known it was the same car when it came back.

It made me laugh because based on the folder of receipts and the age of those tyres, the last two owners will have had absolutely no idea how the car was actually supposed to feel.

Skyedriver said:

Think it's the height of the steering wheel that just bugs me. It seems high compared to everything else I've driven over the last 52 years. It only adjusts in and out not up and down.

I also found that a bit weird - the wheel is a bit bus-like - but got used to it pretty quickly. I fitted a Momo Mod07 which helps a little bit (dished, and a few mm smaller).

Thanks, saw the Goodyear 5 & 6 getting decent reviews. would save about £20/corner. is it worth the saving I wonder? Similar price to Rainsport 5s.
Need a couple of tyres for wife's Mini & a couple for the Excel too. And some stuff to get the old Volvo through an MoT - there's a lot of spend this next couple of months.

Have just looked into the Momo wheel kit from Design 911, the smaller wheel will drop the top a little, make it more comfortable, wonder what the dish does don't want it too close to the chest. Need to sit in the car and think about that.

Edited by Skyedriver on Monday 10th October 15:03

[BS62]

If you're worried about dish bringing the wheel out you could get a prototipo which is more or less the same wheel, just flat. It's what I was originally going to buy, then I realised the Mod07 has a yellow 12 o clock marker on it, and because my car is yellow I was swayed by the tart factor. The dish isn't bad at all though, I'm quite an arms-out driver and it didn't make it feel too close at all.

[Skyedriver]

BS62 said:

If you're worried about dish bringing the wheel out you could get a prototipo which is more or less the same wheel, just flat. It's what I was originally going to buy, then I realised the Mod07 has a yellow 12 o clock marker on it, and because my car is yellow I was swayed by the tart factor. The dish isn't bad at all though, I'm quite an arms-out driver and it didn't make it feel too close at all.

Thanks, Design 911 had a kit for sale about £375 or just a wheel £190 or the prototipo £218 . Assume I need the full kit.

[BS62]

Skyedriver said:

BS62 said:

If you're worried about dish bringing the wheel out you could get a prototipo which is more or less the same wheel, just flat. It's what I was originally going to buy, then I realised the Mod07 has a yellow 12 o clock marker on it, and because my car is yellow I was swayed by the tart factor. The dish isn't bad at all though, I'm quite an arms-out driver and it didn't make it feel too close at all.

Thanks, Design 911 had a kit for sale about £375 or just a wheel £190 or the prototipo £218 . Assume I need the full kit.

Yes, you'll want a kit including the correct boss. I bought a bundle from this chap: https://www.bellavolante.co.uk/ It came with the resistor you need to keep the airbag system working and prevent error lights, the connector you need to make the horn work with the boss, and I bought a horn button from him as well. Would recommend, as it's everything you need in one hit.

Edit: Almost everything. You will need to sort out some wires for the horn and the resistor when you remove the clockspring. There are guides on rennlist and youtube, and the kit came with some too. (https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/667291-993-rs-steering-wheel-installed-wiring-photos.html This is basically what I did, and shows you a good wiring solution. The only bit to add to that is to remember you have a UK car, so turn the ignition switch to the on position (dash lights on, don't start the engine) then remove the -ve lead from the battery - if you do it with it switched off you'll trip the alarm. And put a towel or something through the bonnet catch - you do not want that being accidentally closed with the battery disconnected....)

Edited by BS62 on Thursday 13th October 13:21

[snotrag]

I enjoyed my 986 - There were many things I loved but a few things I didnt 'love', although these are easily fixed (see below). I can well imagine, how someone might not immediately 'get' it and wonder what the fuss is all about.

From my experience:

Tyres
Suspension Componentry (everything, the whole lot).
Geometry

Makes a huge difference. Just as it does with every older, driver focused sports cars.

Semmelweiss said:

I need something when I couldn't find "N" rated in stock at the time).

Firstly forget the N rated nonsense. Yes its important on your 4 year old Approved Used Carrera T.

Its not important on a 20 yyear old 986. The 'current' N rated tyre for this model is a Pilot Sport 2, whereas the world has now moved on to the PS5.


Premium tyres from Michelin, Goodyear, Continental etc will be fine. I went with Yokohama Advan V105 - which are incidentally used from factory on the 4cylinder 718 models.

Check whats available in your sizes.

Geometry setup - these have full adjustable camber/caster/toe front and rear. It needs knowledge and skill to setup. It is NOT 'tracking' .
If you havent done it in the past year or so, it'll need doing.

SE24 said:

Can I ask what milage / age the car was at when you replaced and noticed the difference?

My car was on around 130k when I eventually replaced the entire suspension:

Damper (Koni Actives)
Top Mounts
EVERY suspension arm, 3 per corner IIRC
Track Rods
Drop Links
Springs
Engine Mount
Gearbox Mounts


Now, beforehand the car was 'fine'. No visible play, no clonks, no MOT fails, leaking dampers or coil spings.
But the difference was remarkable.

It cost me about £2-2.5k all in if i recollect, but I did it all myself.

Semmelweiss said:

You aren't revving it high enough. The excitement starts when it starts to howl.

This. What I never did with my car was allow it to sing more often by changing the exhuast and intake. I should have.


I am still tempted by another Boxster and if I do, it will definitly be getting this treatment.

[Skyedriver]

Skyedriver said:

BS62 said:

If you're worried about dish bringing the wheel out you could get a prototipo which is more or less the same wheel, just flat. It's what I was originally going to buy, then I realised the Mod07 has a yellow 12 o clock marker on it, and because my car is yellow I was swayed by the tart factor. The dish isn't bad at all though, I'm quite an arms-out driver and it didn't make it feel too close at all.

Thanks, Design 911 had a kit for sale about £375 or just a wheel £190 or the prototipo £218 . Assume I need the full kit.

Measured existing wheel today, it's only very slightly larger than the Momo about 380 v 350mm diameter