GT4 MR kit review
Discussion
I say 'review' - i'm not a race driver, so this is only useful if you track your car and want to know what an average person experiences in terms of the difference. I only really drive my car at the Nurburgring, the first time i took it out I did a 7.32. I've had the kit installed and did a 7.21. I've also been consistently quicker, which I think is linked to having more confidence
I don't have the lightweight wheels. I have read somewhere that Forgeline do lighter wheels? Would be interested in knowing if there are UK stockists for those that fit the GT4 and what price they paid
Summary
- the camber adjustment prevents tyres being killed. I did 2 days before the outside of the tyre was toast. I've done 2 days and wear is perfectly even
- the kit makes higher speed sections 'safer', notably the crest at the top of kesselchen and (though it's now gone) the bump after the bridge on the dottinger hohe
- over harder bumps, the car feels stiffer and more grounded - like it hits the bump and moves to the next one. The stock suspension (on stiff) still felt 'floaty' and the car would be suffering from feeling lighter for longer. Sprunghogel is a good example of this, though if you launch the car into it, it'll still go light. Better to go slower there and then pick up speed for the next section
- under 'immediate, hard' braking, the back is still unsettled, but it feels more controllable. If you let the car settle in by braking more progressively, it seems to enable you to brake harder when you do reach the threshold. This is all subjective though - could just be i'm not talented enough
I guess the question is, "is it worth it?". If you go to the ring, yes. If you have circuits with high speed corners, yes. If you track your car a lot, but generally at shorter tracks without high speed corners, you can probably make do with the parts to increase camber
Really pleased with the car, just need to get to know it a bit more intimately
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRgwjrgiiZo&ab 7.21
I don't have the lightweight wheels. I have read somewhere that Forgeline do lighter wheels? Would be interested in knowing if there are UK stockists for those that fit the GT4 and what price they paid
Summary
- the camber adjustment prevents tyres being killed. I did 2 days before the outside of the tyre was toast. I've done 2 days and wear is perfectly even
- the kit makes higher speed sections 'safer', notably the crest at the top of kesselchen and (though it's now gone) the bump after the bridge on the dottinger hohe
- over harder bumps, the car feels stiffer and more grounded - like it hits the bump and moves to the next one. The stock suspension (on stiff) still felt 'floaty' and the car would be suffering from feeling lighter for longer. Sprunghogel is a good example of this, though if you launch the car into it, it'll still go light. Better to go slower there and then pick up speed for the next section
- under 'immediate, hard' braking, the back is still unsettled, but it feels more controllable. If you let the car settle in by braking more progressively, it seems to enable you to brake harder when you do reach the threshold. This is all subjective though - could just be i'm not talented enough
I guess the question is, "is it worth it?". If you go to the ring, yes. If you have circuits with high speed corners, yes. If you track your car a lot, but generally at shorter tracks without high speed corners, you can probably make do with the parts to increase camber
Really pleased with the car, just need to get to know it a bit more intimately
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRgwjrgiiZo&ab 7.21
Now I know why I don’t track!dashobbit said:
Standard Manthey settings :
ARB is soft at the front, medium at the rear
Rebound (fast and slow): 9 at front, 8 at rear
Compression (fast and slow): 8 at front and rear
Camber: -3 at front, -2.5 at rear
1 degree toe in at front, 2 degrees at the rear
Ok yep. Standard MR. ARB is soft at the front, medium at the rear
Rebound (fast and slow): 9 at front, 8 at rear
Compression (fast and slow): 8 at front and rear
Camber: -3 at front, -2.5 at rear
1 degree toe in at front, 2 degrees at the rear
For UK circuits… I’ve had my ride height lowered to take out some of the initial body movement and lower the roll Center a little.
Also for Silverstone found that one click harder on low speed bump really locked the car down. On the road and else where so far I’ve run the standard MR settings.
Mine is a 981.
Have full MR package the chassis side, but not the MR wing
PFC rotors and Pagid RSL29
For engine… have done 718 CS/GT intake, headers, exhaust & appropriate remap to give around 718 GT4 equivalent performance, but sounds better. Lol.
For a 718 GT4 PDK like yours… personally not sure I’d do more than MR kit and brakes.
Wheels would be nice and would be an advantage…. but add a decent chunk to costs.
Have full MR package the chassis side, but not the MR wing
PFC rotors and Pagid RSL29
For engine… have done 718 CS/GT intake, headers, exhaust & appropriate remap to give around 718 GT4 equivalent performance, but sounds better. Lol.
For a 718 GT4 PDK like yours… personally not sure I’d do more than MR kit and brakes.
Wheels would be nice and would be an advantage…. but add a decent chunk to costs.
Edited by TDT on Friday 3rd June 14:37
dashobbit said:
Was also wondering about an exhaust but not interested in anything that requires a remap, which I think is just the OFP section
Not sure if the JCR ultralight uses the OFPs or not
The superlight system replaces the OPFs, and there are ways to stop the car showing a CEL without remapping the car. Not sure I'd do it myself as the car will be potentially be running out of spec? If you replace just the final silencer, as I have done, you'll have no issues whatsoever.Not sure if the JCR ultralight uses the OFPs or not
Thanks for the camber specs by the way, I'm running something very similar on my car and even without the MR suspension the car feels really planted. As standard the cars have nowhere near enough camber in them IMHO, even for road use, unless you're just pottering about to and from Cars and Coffee meets
19 seconds to go until it matches the pace of the MR in the hands of a race driver
Unless I can claim 17 of those are the wheels…
I have very little interest in the GT3s. A fast lap in those (ie 7mins or less) relies heavily on the tyres sticking. Engine in the “wrong” place, so can’t balance the car like you can with a mid engined one (not in my hands anyway), so it’s a whole lot more speed, a whole lot more risk, and if you make a mistake there’s less room to correct it before you meet the side of a mountain
If anyone wants to swap me for a 4RS though…
Unless I can claim 17 of those are the wheels…
I have very little interest in the GT3s. A fast lap in those (ie 7mins or less) relies heavily on the tyres sticking. Engine in the “wrong” place, so can’t balance the car like you can with a mid engined one (not in my hands anyway), so it’s a whole lot more speed, a whole lot more risk, and if you make a mistake there’s less room to correct it before you meet the side of a mountain
If anyone wants to swap me for a 4RS though…
Twinfan said:
The superlight system replaces the OPFs, and there are ways to stop the car showing a CEL without remapping the car. Not sure I'd do it myself as the car will be potentially be running out of spec? If you replace just the final silencer, as I have done, you'll have no issues whatsoever.
Thanks for the camber specs by the way, I'm running something very similar on my car and even without the MR suspension the car feels really planted. As standard the cars have nowhere near enough camber in them IMHO, even for road use, unless you're just pottering about to and from Cars and Coffee meets
Agree - the MR kit is probably not the cheapest way to achieve stability but it’s tried and testedThanks for the camber specs by the way, I'm running something very similar on my car and even without the MR suspension the car feels really planted. As standard the cars have nowhere near enough camber in them IMHO, even for road use, unless you're just pottering about to and from Cars and Coffee meets
I looked at the exhaust options properly. I think it’s either JCR back box - which no doubt makes it too loud for some UK tracks - or a cargraphic system with high flowing OPFs and race cats- which throws the warranty out the window for about 25bhp
I’ll keep it standard and spend the cash on tyres and fuel instead
dashobbit said:
Agree - the MR kit is probably not the cheapest way to achieve stability but it’s tried and tested
I looked at the exhaust options properly. I think it’s either JCR back box - which no doubt makes it too loud for some UK tracks - or a cargraphic system with high flowing OPFs and race cats- which throws the warranty out the window for about 25bhp
I’ll keep it standard and spend the cash on tyres and fuel instead
Replacing the silencer alone doesn't make the car any louder for track use. The standard system is wide open pipework above 4k. On static tests at around 4k my car blows the same as a standard car: 90-91dB.I looked at the exhaust options properly. I think it’s either JCR back box - which no doubt makes it too loud for some UK tracks - or a cargraphic system with high flowing OPFs and race cats- which throws the warranty out the window for about 25bhp
I’ll keep it standard and spend the cash on tyres and fuel instead
Changing the silencer makes it louder at lower revs but more importantly, if you choose an option that mixes the cylinder banks unlike the OEM system, you change the exhaust tone/note for what most people seen to think is one that is subjectively "better".
Twinfan said:
Replacing the silencer alone doesn't make the car any louder for track use. The standard system is wide open pipework above 4k. On static tests at around 4k my car blows the same as a standard car: 90-91dB.
Changing the silencer makes it louder at lower revs but more importantly, if you choose an option that mixes the cylinder banks unlike the OEM system, you change the exhaust tone/note for what most people seen to think is one that is subjectively "better".
Sorry should have said - i would only do that for the non silenced version, which I think adds 6-7dbChanging the silencer makes it louder at lower revs but more importantly, if you choose an option that mixes the cylinder banks unlike the OEM system, you change the exhaust tone/note for what most people seen to think is one that is subjectively "better".
dashobbit said:
Sorry should have said - i would only do that for the non silenced version, which I think adds 6-7db
Only at low revs. If you keep the OPFs it's no different to the stock straight through system after the valves open at 4k revs (or 3k revs with the exhaust button pressed).As I've said, the valves open part of the stock silencer is open and unsilenced.
The 6-7dB difference is if you use their silenced tips which will make the car quieter than stock for tracks with low noise limits e.g. Brands Hatch.
Edited by Twinfan on Sunday 5th June 10:55
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