Modifications to improve the GT4 Experience
Discussion
I’m now 1K miles into the ownership of my 718 GT4 PDK ( my first and only Porsche GT to date) and beginning to understand what’s it’s all about and what I want from my car.
I never thought I would want to track mine but this is now a priority for me mainly to enjoy what I have, safely, while not exceeding my capabilities. European road trips with other like minded people is also on my to do list.
Before all that I want to lightly modify my car to enhance my overall experience and enjoyment.
Geo and exhaust are the first two items on my list.
I am booked into Parr on the 16th to have the Cargraphic exhaust controller installed as a first step (I can’t afford to buy a new system or part system at the moment and am concerned about the warranty situation). I have read and seen a few videos and they seem to work reasonably well and maybe it’s all I need to do? Whilst there I will seek advice on the best bang for buck mods to consider.
Any thoughts on the way forward would be appreciated by me and others thinking about such things.
My plan is to keep this car as long as I’m able.
I never thought I would want to track mine but this is now a priority for me mainly to enjoy what I have, safely, while not exceeding my capabilities. European road trips with other like minded people is also on my to do list.
Before all that I want to lightly modify my car to enhance my overall experience and enjoyment.
Geo and exhaust are the first two items on my list.
I am booked into Parr on the 16th to have the Cargraphic exhaust controller installed as a first step (I can’t afford to buy a new system or part system at the moment and am concerned about the warranty situation). I have read and seen a few videos and they seem to work reasonably well and maybe it’s all I need to do? Whilst there I will seek advice on the best bang for buck mods to consider.
Any thoughts on the way forward would be appreciated by me and others thinking about such things.
My plan is to keep this car as long as I’m able.
Exhaust:
If you want more than the valve controller a silencer swap is all you need. Don't mess with the headers or over axle pipes (OAPs). The car will run just fine within its standard parameters. Mine has now done circa 6k miles after a silencer swap and all is good. Be prepared for some drone at low revs with the Cargraphic controller, this is what the valving fixes on the OEM silencer.
Geo:
Max camber everywhere should get you around -1.5 degrees all round which will be OK. Adding shims at the front should get you -2 deg on standard parts which is what I'd recommend, no issues with warranty. More than that level of camber will require parts front and rear, but the car feels even better in my experience. Your choice as to how far you want to go.
Hope that helps
If you want more than the valve controller a silencer swap is all you need. Don't mess with the headers or over axle pipes (OAPs). The car will run just fine within its standard parameters. Mine has now done circa 6k miles after a silencer swap and all is good. Be prepared for some drone at low revs with the Cargraphic controller, this is what the valving fixes on the OEM silencer.
Geo:
Max camber everywhere should get you around -1.5 degrees all round which will be OK. Adding shims at the front should get you -2 deg on standard parts which is what I'd recommend, no issues with warranty. More than that level of camber will require parts front and rear, but the car feels even better in my experience. Your choice as to how far you want to go.
Hope that helps
Getting the car properly aligned is foundational starting point.
Personally I’d say that any exhaust mods are unnecessary from a track POV unless part of a power package.
As you’ll be at higher revs on track… OEM PSE operation will have the valves fully open anyway… so no really benefit to the valve controller.
On road the valves controller will give you manual control of having the valves open at low RPM so may give you some added noise/aural pleasure in those ranges.
It once you’ve had the car aligned… key thing to do it just to get out on track, get seat time and get instruction.
It’s cliché, but it’s true.
The cars are very capable out of the box and more than enough to get started with. Once your running at a decent pace and broaching excessive consumable wear, or approaching the limits of handling, other thing can be done.
Look forward to reading your journey…
Personally I’d say that any exhaust mods are unnecessary from a track POV unless part of a power package.
As you’ll be at higher revs on track… OEM PSE operation will have the valves fully open anyway… so no really benefit to the valve controller.
On road the valves controller will give you manual control of having the valves open at low RPM so may give you some added noise/aural pleasure in those ranges.
It once you’ve had the car aligned… key thing to do it just to get out on track, get seat time and get instruction.
It’s cliché, but it’s true.
The cars are very capable out of the box and more than enough to get started with. Once your running at a decent pace and broaching excessive consumable wear, or approaching the limits of handling, other thing can be done.
Look forward to reading your journey…
Twinfan said:
Exhaust:
If you want more than the valve controller a silencer swap is all you need. Don't mess with the headers or over axle pipes (OAPs). The car will run just fine within its standard parameters. Mine has now done circa 6k miles after a silencer swap and all is good. Be prepared for some drone at low revs with the Cargraphic controller, this is what the valving fixes on the OEM silencer.
Geo:
Max camber everywhere should get you around -1.5 degrees all round which will be OK. Adding shims at the front should get you -2 deg on standard parts which is what I'd recommend, no issues with warranty. More than that level of camber will require parts front and rear, but the car feels even better in my experience. Your choice as to how far you want to go.
Hope that helps
Re the exhaust. Thought I’d try the controller as a starting point as they have had some positive reviews and would be easy to sell on if necessary. Not worried about the sound whilst on track as she is going to spend the vast majority of her time with me on the road. If I experience droning then I can simply shut the valves with the remote (as I understand it). Any exhaust mods would only be the back box as power gains are of little interest to me as my skill levels are far exceeded by a standard cars capabilities. If you want more than the valve controller a silencer swap is all you need. Don't mess with the headers or over axle pipes (OAPs). The car will run just fine within its standard parameters. Mine has now done circa 6k miles after a silencer swap and all is good. Be prepared for some drone at low revs with the Cargraphic controller, this is what the valving fixes on the OEM silencer.
Geo:
Max camber everywhere should get you around -1.5 degrees all round which will be OK. Adding shims at the front should get you -2 deg on standard parts which is what I'd recommend, no issues with warranty. More than that level of camber will require parts front and rear, but the car feels even better in my experience. Your choice as to how far you want to go.
Hope that helps
Re the max camber. Thanks for the advice. I will speak with Parr about this and decide if it’s worth the effort as mostly road use.
TDT said:
Getting the car properly aligned is foundational starting point.
Personally I’d say that any exhaust mods are unnecessary from a track POV unless part of a power package.
As you’ll be at higher revs on track… OEM PSE operation will have the valves fully open anyway… so no really benefit to the valve controller.
On road the valves controller will give you manual control of having the valves open at low RPM so may give you some added noise/aural pleasure in those ranges.
It once you’ve had the car aligned… key thing to do it just to get out on track, get seat time and get instruction.
It’s cliché, but it’s true.
The cars are very capable out of the box and more than enough to get started with. Once your running at a decent pace and broaching excessive consumable wear, or approaching the limits of handling, other thing can be done.
Look forward to reading your journey…
Thanks, very helpful. Personally I’d say that any exhaust mods are unnecessary from a track POV unless part of a power package.
As you’ll be at higher revs on track… OEM PSE operation will have the valves fully open anyway… so no really benefit to the valve controller.
On road the valves controller will give you manual control of having the valves open at low RPM so may give you some added noise/aural pleasure in those ranges.
It once you’ve had the car aligned… key thing to do it just to get out on track, get seat time and get instruction.
It’s cliché, but it’s true.
The cars are very capable out of the box and more than enough to get started with. Once your running at a decent pace and broaching excessive consumable wear, or approaching the limits of handling, other thing can be done.
Look forward to reading your journey…
Budweiser said:
Re the exhaust. Thought I’d try the controller as a starting point as they have had some positive reviews and would be easy to sell on if necessary. Not worried about the sound whilst on track as she is going to spend the vast majority of her time with me on the road. If I experience droning then I can simply shut the valves with the remote (as I understand it). Any exhaust mods would only be the back box as power gains are of little interest to me as my skill levels are far exceeded by a standard cars capabilities.
Re the max camber. Thanks for the advice. I will speak with Parr about this and decide if it’s worth the effort as mostly road use.
No worries. I personally wouldn't bother with the valve controller as I don't like the tone of the standard exhaust note at lower revs with the valves open, I'd spend the money on alignment and shims for the front instead. You, or a garage, could always unplug the vacuum lines to test it to see what you think before spending £100s on the valve controller and ripping your interior to pieces to get at the engine bay to fit it Re the max camber. Thanks for the advice. I will speak with Parr about this and decide if it’s worth the effort as mostly road use.
The camber mods are worth it even for road use, you'll get more even tyre wear and I felt the car gained more sure-footedness.
TDT said:
Getting the car properly aligned is foundational starting point.
Personally I’d say that any exhaust mods are unnecessary from a track POV unless part of a power package.
As you’ll be at higher revs on track… OEM PSE operation will have the valves fully open anyway… so no really benefit to the valve controller.
On road the valves controller will give you manual control of having the valves open at low RPM so may give you some added noise/aural pleasure in those ranges.
It once you’ve had the car aligned… key thing to do it just to get out on track, get seat time and get instruction.
It’s cliché, but it’s true.
The cars are very capable out of the box and more than enough to get started with. Once your running at a decent pace and broaching excessive consumable wear, or approaching the limits of handling, other thing can be done.
Look forward to reading your journey…
+1 ...Personally I’d say that any exhaust mods are unnecessary from a track POV unless part of a power package.
As you’ll be at higher revs on track… OEM PSE operation will have the valves fully open anyway… so no really benefit to the valve controller.
On road the valves controller will give you manual control of having the valves open at low RPM so may give you some added noise/aural pleasure in those ranges.
It once you’ve had the car aligned… key thing to do it just to get out on track, get seat time and get instruction.
It’s cliché, but it’s true.
The cars are very capable out of the box and more than enough to get started with. Once your running at a decent pace and broaching excessive consumable wear, or approaching the limits of handling, other thing can be done.
Look forward to reading your journey…
On the 981 the first modification was to the geometry due to very high front tyre shoulder wear.
The limit of negative camber was limited by the need to keep toe limits in check, which then required some suspension modifications ...
Noise levels were sometimes on the limit for track work, so quieter is better ...
Brakes become a significant consumable ... and can be upgraded
A second set of wheels for PS4S wet and cold weather tyres was useful ...
Dampers can be upgraded ...
Power can be upgraded ...
And tuition helps everywhere
Twinfan said:
No worries. I personally wouldn't bother with the valve controller as I don't like the tone of the standard exhaust note at lower revs with the valves open, I'd spend the money on alignment and shims for the front instead. You, or a garage, could always unplug the vacuum lines to test it to see what you think before spending £100s on the valve controller and ripping your interior to pieces to get at the engine bay to fit it
The camber mods are worth it even for road use, you'll get more even tyre wear and I felt the car gained more sure-footedness.
What exhaust did you fit on your car? The camber mods are worth it even for road use, you'll get more even tyre wear and I felt the car gained more sure-footedness.
Congrats on reaching 1000miles. Now you can really open her up!
I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
mattkidd said:
Congrats on reaching 1000miles. Now you can really open her up!
I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
Matt. Sounds like we embarking on a similar journey. I’m going to give Parr a ring to see what they suggest re the fast road alinement and front shims as that seems a no brainier. I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
Please feel free to add to the thread with your progress if you wish and let us know how you get on at JZM.
mattkidd said:
Congrats on reaching 1000miles. Now you can really open her up!
I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
Matt, have you run these mods past your solicitor friend !!!! 😉I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
mattkidd said:
Congrats on reaching 1000miles. Now you can really open her up!
I collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
My GT4 sounded ace with it on. More so outside than inside I thoughtI collected my PDK GT4 in August and have now reached 5,000 miles. I also plan some European road trips next year and some track time to get the most out of the car.
First on my list is the geometry and I’ve got the car booked into JZM Porsche for their fast road alignment and shims next month. I’m hoping this will make the front end a little more responsive.
Next up for me will be the exhaust and I’m planning to go JCR unsilenced back box. I’ve not yet witnessed an exhaust that sounds as good as the JCR one!
After that we shall see. I’m considering a couple of interior retrofits and replacing some of the underside diffuser plastics (they’ve been scraped!!)
Let us know what you decide/how you get on
Having enquired about a fast road geo set up and if shims would be required I was told shims wouldn’t be required but I would need the rear toe arm upgrade??
I know others have had this set up on their cars and would like your view’s on this.
The front setup cost is relatively inexpensive but with the toe arm upgrade the total cost is around £1K.
Good value?
I know others have had this set up on their cars and would like your view’s on this.
The front setup cost is relatively inexpensive but with the toe arm upgrade the total cost is around £1K.
Good value?
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