Air cooled bottom end rebuild cost?

[BrettMRC]

Looks like our 3.0 is going to need a bottom end rebuild.

Assuming the crank is OK, anyone got a rough guide as to an expected cost? (Obviously if the crank/journals need work it will increase)

Seeing comments online ranging from £8-30k?

[Cheib]

I can’t help with specific info other than from what I know a full engine rebuild is in the £20k plus area so I think you can rule out the top end of your price rnage. Good luck with it.

Give someone like RPM a call..they’re very helpful, do good work and do their own engine work.

[supersport]

I think depends on who does it and what they find and what you replace.

I am expecting to pay about £10k assuming nothing bad found, using my indie off 18 years.

[julian987R]

BrettMRC said:

Looks like our 3.0 is going to need a bottom end rebuild.

Assuming the crank is OK, anyone got a rough guide as to an expected cost? (Obviously if the crank/journals need work it will increase)

Seeing comments online ranging from £8-30k?

I think like builders and plumbers, what ever they quote you need to double it, so I would factor in £50K and 1 year.

[BrettMRC]

Thanks all, its currently at a place I trust - just not had an estimate back yet, so was trying to get things aligned in my head while I wait!

[BertBert]

Just curious, what were the symptoms?

[Yellow491]

julian987R said:

BrettMRC said:

Looks like our 3.0 is going to need a bottom end rebuild.

Assuming the crank is OK, anyone got a rough guide as to an expected cost? (Obviously if the crank/journals need work it will increase)

Seeing comments online ranging from £8-30k?

I think like builders and plumbers, what ever they quote you need to double it, so I would factor in £50K and 1 year.

You really are a pillock J,lay off the sauce.

As said what are the symptoms, depending on overall condition,a top to bottom min 10k but should not exceed 20k if lots of parts need replacing,good luck.
Having some one to trust is a important part of any engine build,can recommend atop guy if you are not happy.

[BrettMRC]

BertBert said:

Just curious, what were the symptoms?

Unusual rumble from the bottom end, oil analysis reveals high ppm of lead...and the wrong grade oil!
(So will be taking that up with the previous firm as it's the cause!)

[Orangecurry]

Sorry to hear that. What grade did they use?

[magic Monkey Dust]

I have no idea what a full air cooled rebuild cost these days as i went water cooled over 10 years ago. I know a water cooled rebuild is around 7 to 10k . However i can say the last time i haf and air cooled rebuild in a 1967 2.0 S on carbs, was 2005, the full rebuild with refurbished carbs and a new exhaust , maybe an Abarth exhaust from memory and stainless steel heat exchangers was £2700 inc vat. How the hell have prices risen this far in 16 years!!!.??.
The rebuild was a reputable dealer and ran like a peach afterwards taking me to Le Mans on the run in trip. Back then you could buy a 2.2T or plain jane 2.0 got 7 grand , clearly somebody thinks the owner of a 75 grand car is a cash cow.

[roca1976]

I did my 2.7 fully, including crank regrind (all journals) and line bore (yours being ally turbo block should not need it) for £12k but did a lot myself and a friend is an engine builder so did it at mates rates. I would have expected £20-25k if I took it somewhere for a turnkey job.

From memory the gt3 shells are the same as SC? Not sure if that also means the crank is?

Depending on debris you may decide to replace the oil cooler. I couldn't find anywhere that could guarantee to clean it so bought a new one. Wasn't worth the risk after spending a fortune on the engine.

Sounds like it has recently been rebuilt so hopefully top end is ok and will just need new gaskets, etc.

Out of interest what component/ bearing does the lead content point to?

[BrettMRC]

10/40 instead of an SAE 50.

Engine has never been rebuilt, it's on about 86k now.

Only does a few hundred miles per year, been in the family since new - so slightly annoyed, but on the flip side it's been 20 years since it last threw a major bill, so could be worse I guess - just goes to show that even with a reputable firm you can still get incompetence issues.

[Orangecurry]

BrettMRC said:

10/40 instead of an SAE 50.

Engine has never been rebuilt, it's on about 86k now.

Only does a few hundred miles per year, been in the family since new - so slightly annoyed, but on the flip side it's been 20 years since it last threw a major bill, so could be worse I guess - just goes to show that even with a reputable firm you can still get incompetence issues.

My 3.2 (89) was on 10w40 - what age/engine was the grade change? Apologies to ask on your thread of woe, but everyday is a schoolday.

[Yellow491]

BrettMRC said:

10/40 instead of an SAE 50.

Engine has never been rebuilt, it's on about 86k now.

Only does a few hundred miles per year, been in the family since new - so slightly annoyed, but on the flip side it's been 20 years since it last threw a major bill, so could be worse I guess - just goes to show that even with a reputable firm you can still get incompetence issues.

It should not be catastrophic running on 10/40,i doubt thats the cause.The engine may just be tired,do you mean white metal in the oil.
At that mileage, top end will probably be exhaust valve guides,reseating valves and seats,seals etc
Bottom end bearings and rod bearings,strip oil pump and clean.The bottom end is fairly bomb proof,issue can be if the crank has ever been reground what you do if its now scored ,oversize bearings etc etc,it should not be to bad!
Little use is not great on these engines unless really cared for,good luck.

[BrettMRC]

I tend to try and stay out of it, it's the wife's baby - so I just nod and say yes.....

The feedback from the analysis firm re: viscosity was:

"The viscosity is critically low (should be an SAE 50 grade, approx 1.8 cSt). This is not explained by the fuel dilution which is acceptable."

[Discombobulate]

Well, put it this way. You can spend 15K with one of the best names in the business (supposedly) and then the next owner has to spend £25k doing a proper job a few years and 5000 miles later. Don't ask me how I know.
Tread carefully.

[ChrisW.]

The result.
After all, rally legend Walter Röhrl once said: "A car needs love". As so often, he hit the mark when it came to engine oil. That is why our special lubricants have been extensively tested in laboratory and field tests focusing on running performance, material compatibility and lubrication properties. The result: four engine oils in the variants 20W-50, 10W-60, 10W-50 and 5W-50.

The spec of Porsche Classic Motor-oils .... the 20W-50 is recommended for older engines up to 2.7 ... so I guess the 3.0l should be one of the others ? Why not ask your local Porsche Classic dealer ?

Certainly fuel dilution of the oil if a lot of short journeys will not help and cold starts etc ...

[julian987R]

Yellow491 said:

julian987R said:

BrettMRC said:

Looks like our 3.0 is going to need a bottom end rebuild.

Assuming the crank is OK, anyone got a rough guide as to an expected cost? (Obviously if the crank/journals need work it will increase)

Seeing comments online ranging from £8-30k?

I think like builders and plumbers, what ever they quote you need to double it, so I would factor in £50K and 1 year.

You really are a pillock J,lay off the sauce.

As said what are the symptoms, depending on overall condition,a top to bottom min 10k but should not exceed 20k if lots of parts need replacing,good luck.
Having some one to trust is a important part of any engine build,can recommend atop guy if you are not happy.

I think you will be surprised. As someone mentions below, there is a case of £40k being spent to get it right.
It ‘may not’ exceed £20k but it ‘may do’.

[BrettMRC]

...and of course, there is my endless well of hope!

[stichill99]

Totally agree about the builders and plumbers though!