Removing broken spark plug - help!
Discussion
Post a picture of it maybe people will have a better idea then.
A idea could be to drill out plug then heicoil in another thread.
If I remember right it sits inside the damaged thread.
Maybe tap and dye the hole again if not to bad.
Just seen the picture take the head off.
A idea could be to drill out plug then heicoil in another thread.
If I remember right it sits inside the damaged thread.
Maybe tap and dye the hole again if not to bad.
Just seen the picture take the head off.
Edited by SEE YA on Saturday 11th December 08:20
We just had to do this for a mate who had the same problem, tried our bolt extractors to no avail. In the end we soaked the plugs in penetrating fluid for about 4 days and borrowed an easy out from a mechanic I know down the road. It wasn't like ours, it was hexagon in cross section and serrated. Hammer in and wind out, mind it was still so stiff that it twisted the easy out so they are pretty well stuck in. Other than that, as has been said it's a head off job.
http://sa.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/da1384/5piece-...
Plenty of penetrating fluid, heat and a sturdy extractor , like those depicted in the above link.
I've had to remove 3 so far for folk who are ham fisted ,or leave their plug changes far too long.
My extractors are old Sykes Pickavant items and cope fine with this sort of work.
Plenty of penetrating fluid, heat and a sturdy extractor , like those depicted in the above link.
I've had to remove 3 so far for folk who are ham fisted ,or leave their plug changes far too long.
My extractors are old Sykes Pickavant items and cope fine with this sort of work.
freddytin said:
http://sa.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/da1384/5piece-...
Plenty of penetrating fluid, heat and a sturdy extractor , like those depicted in the above link.
I've had to remove 3 so far for folk who are ham fisted ,or leave their plug changes far too long.
My extractors are old Sykes Pickavant items and cope fine with this sort of work.
That looks like the kind of thing we used, as freddytin said, loads of penetrating fluid and get it glowing red hot. Slightly O/T but what is the cause of these plugs shearing? I've never had a problem like this in any of my cars, although none of mine have these thin kind of plugs. Is it just that they haven't been changed frequently enough or is it bad design somewhere?Plenty of penetrating fluid, heat and a sturdy extractor , like those depicted in the above link.
I've had to remove 3 so far for folk who are ham fisted ,or leave their plug changes far too long.
My extractors are old Sykes Pickavant items and cope fine with this sort of work.
Apparently common fault, water leak and plug rusts in place. Car has been serviced in its life (at ford main dealer and other random garages) allegedly. The plugs themselves look like the original items (from 1999). Probably never been changed.
Do you think I can demand my money back from the gf?
Do you think I can demand my money back from the gf?
doogz said:
Why would he need to have the head skimmed? It doesn't need done everytime you take it off.
Whipping the head off is no big deal, especially if you haven't done the timing belt yet, kill 2 birds with one stone.
For piece of mind. If you're going to the extent of buying head gaskets etc, do the job properly and have the head faced/skimmed. How would you feel if 3 months down the line it started mixing oil and coolant thanks to a head that had warped slightly, and could have been cured the first time it was all in pieces?Whipping the head off is no big deal, especially if you haven't done the timing belt yet, kill 2 birds with one stone.
HellDiver said:
For a £250 banger, I'd leave the broken plug there, and just unplug the injector for that cylinder. It'll go fine on 3, and unplugging the injector will mean it'll not fill the non-working cylinder with petrol.
ha ha love it very similar to my mk3 2.8 v6 granada....ran that on 5 pots for about 10 monthsHellDiver said:
For a £250 banger, I'd leave the broken plug there, and just unplug the injector for that cylinder. It'll go fine on 3, and unplugging the injector will mean it'll not fill the non-working cylinder with petrol.
I'd be very surprised if that engine is direct injection, its not even got a overhead cam!had this happen to me twice on a Fiat that was leaking oil into the plugs, the rubber bit on the end of the areil jammed in there nicely and had just enough grip to unscrew it, but i Wouldn't recommend it 
When they break the centre electrode may well drop onto the piston and that could be down in the chamber, if you do it without the head off make sure you get all the bits
When they break the centre electrode may well drop onto the piston and that could be down in the chamber, if you do it without the head off make sure you get all the bits
if it was me , id at least try to remove it in situ , soak the area with plus gas for a days (not wd40) then try a proper brand easy out , if it comes out then a small bore hose taped on the hoover should clean it out
you might well end up failing and have to have the head off , but its not like it will out once the head is off
you might well end up failing and have to have the head off , but its not like it will out once the head is off
normaly the top half will snap off quite easly. then you can remove the electrode and int insulation.
this should leave just the outer case of the plug stuck in the engine.
cover this in freeing agent over night then heat with a blow torch or similar.
it will then normal come out with a reverse spiral type extractor.
if not the outer case can normaly be chiseled out but take care not to let it drop into the cylinder or you will be having the head off.
this should leave just the outer case of the plug stuck in the engine.
cover this in freeing agent over night then heat with a blow torch or similar.
it will then normal come out with a reverse spiral type extractor.
if not the outer case can normaly be chiseled out but take care not to let it drop into the cylinder or you will be having the head off.
GTO Scott said:
For piece of mind. If you're going to the extent of buying head gaskets etc, do the job properly and have the head faced/skimmed.
Doing the job "properly" would mean getting the head skimmed if it needed it, e.g. if the head was warped of if there was corrosion damage near a fire ring etc. Skimming heads just for the sake of it is not equivalent to doing a proper job.It's an old cast iron block and cast iron head - the chances of it actually needing to be skimmed are low.
Edited by Mr2Mike on Friday 10th December 16:08
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