Your car needs discs and pads sir...
Discussion
otolith said:
Mr Tidy said:
Well it was intermittent, until it wasn't!
But then a year was only about 4,000 miles. And it wasn't like it couldn't stop.
Was that the Z4M? I had that happen on a test drive, became apparent because the heat set off the tyre pressure warning!But then a year was only about 4,000 miles. And it wasn't like it couldn't stop.
I say sadly because it has the same discs as the E46 M3 CSL and was in for an Inspection 1 as well, so my credit card is feeling battered.
blueg33 said:
rottenegg said:
Going against the upselling trend, I actually got a free extra litre of oil in my service yesterday which I had to drain out when I got home 
I swear some mechanics think you keep pouring the oil in until it's level with the filler cap hole or something.
I was short changed by half a litre in my last service. I swear some mechanics think you keep pouring the oil in until it's level with the filler cap hole or something.
I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
donkmeister said:
The age old argument of whether the oil should be filled to the MAX line, or midway between MIN and MAX? Or was it actually below MIN?
I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
I would imagine the Max mark will be to the level to avoid crank splash ?I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
Mr Tidy said:
otolith said:
Mr Tidy said:
Well it was intermittent, until it wasn't!
But then a year was only about 4,000 miles. And it wasn't like it couldn't stop.
Was that the Z4M? I had that happen on a test drive, became apparent because the heat set off the tyre pressure warning!But then a year was only about 4,000 miles. And it wasn't like it couldn't stop.
I say sadly because it has the same discs as the E46 M3 CSL and was in for an Inspection 1 as well, so my credit card is feeling battered.
Maxdecel said:
I would imagine the Max mark will be to the level to avoid crank splash ?
I keep our cars a touch below max but most f them don't hold much. Was a known issue when I ran Mercs a few years ago that the slightest overfill would cause a high oil level warning so dealers used to underfill them. But most held 6.5 or 8 litres (depending on engine) so it was neither here nor there.
donkmeister said:
blueg33 said:
rottenegg said:
Going against the upselling trend, I actually got a free extra litre of oil in my service yesterday which I had to drain out when I got home
I swear some mechanics think you keep pouring the oil in until it's level with the filler cap hole or something.
I was short changed by half a litre in my last service. I swear some mechanics think you keep pouring the oil in until it's level with the filler cap hole or something.
I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
rambo19 said:
Mikebentley said:
Just taken my 2022 Defender for its first service at 14k miles and 2yrs old. I will be having an oil and filter change every 12 months between two year services as a precautionary measure in future as I feel 2yrs is too long. Tech video advised all tyres on 5mm so advisory to change only 3 of them? Cost £325 each so including fitting I think it was £1063.00 very odd though as they are all apparently the same wear. They have between 10 and 15k miles left on them at least and what they don’t know is I have 3 in the garage I paid £75 each for so no up sell there.
The salesman who sold me the car though is brilliant and is replacing the aftermarket tread plates they sold me from Vulkan (now defunct) free of charge and has had a set of plates (personal reg) made up for me too.
Another bonus was when we dropped it off I was given the keys to a brand new 25 miles on the clock P550e Autobiography FFRR in Belgravia Green with Caraway Leather interior and headlining. Kept it for 6 hours and 150 miles. What a car and a decision made to get the same spec car when it’s 4 yrs old. All round a happy customer.
14k for a 1st oil change is a very bad idea, imo.The salesman who sold me the car though is brilliant and is replacing the aftermarket tread plates they sold me from Vulkan (now defunct) free of charge and has had a set of plates (personal reg) made up for me too.
Another bonus was when we dropped it off I was given the keys to a brand new 25 miles on the clock P550e Autobiography FFRR in Belgravia Green with Caraway Leather interior and headlining. Kept it for 6 hours and 150 miles. What a car and a decision made to get the same spec car when it’s 4 yrs old. All round a happy customer.
I cannot JLR reccomend it.
ChocolateFrog said:
Probably mentioned it on this thread before but my old Honda Insight had numerous Honda stamps for services which included replacing the pollen filter.
Which is funny as the first time you change it you HAVE to cut part of the dash away that's left over from manufacturer, impossible to change it without doing that unless you removed the whole dash.
Which is odd as when I came to do it, there it was very much intact with an original 20 year old filter in place.
Numerous different dealers both in Japan and the UK, all liars.
Same as my Z4. There were lots of stamps saying that it had been changed but when I did it, the filter was dated 2008 and absolutely full of leaves and other debris.Which is funny as the first time you change it you HAVE to cut part of the dash away that's left over from manufacturer, impossible to change it without doing that unless you removed the whole dash.
Which is odd as when I came to do it, there it was very much intact with an original 20 year old filter in place.
Numerous different dealers both in Japan and the UK, all liars.
J4CKO said:
Worth learning to diy brakes, they are a piece of piss, and the savings are huge.
Local fast fit place wanted £270 to change disks and pads on my wifes car when it was in for MOT, I already had the parts, £50 and an hour of my time.
Its not for everyone but if you have a driveway, a jack, axle stands, some mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools then you can do it. There is always a YouTube video to show you the process and the tools/parts you will need.
I save a fortune, well until I stuck a big brake kit from EBC on my car a couple of weeks back of course, still, was cheaper than paying for someone else to fit it, probably £300 I reckon.
I’d agree with that; discs and pads are really easy to do.Local fast fit place wanted £270 to change disks and pads on my wifes car when it was in for MOT, I already had the parts, £50 and an hour of my time.
Its not for everyone but if you have a driveway, a jack, axle stands, some mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools then you can do it. There is always a YouTube video to show you the process and the tools/parts you will need.
I save a fortune, well until I stuck a big brake kit from EBC on my car a couple of weeks back of course, still, was cheaper than paying for someone else to fit it, probably £300 I reckon.
Court_S said:
J4CKO said:
Worth learning to diy brakes, they are a piece of piss, and the savings are huge.
Local fast fit place wanted £270 to change disks and pads on my wifes car when it was in for MOT, I already had the parts, £50 and an hour of my time.
Its not for everyone but if you have a driveway, a jack, axle stands, some mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools then you can do it. There is always a YouTube video to show you the process and the tools/parts you will need.
I save a fortune, well until I stuck a big brake kit from EBC on my car a couple of weeks back of course, still, was cheaper than paying for someone else to fit it, probably £300 I reckon.
I’d agree with that; discs and pads are really easy to do.Local fast fit place wanted £270 to change disks and pads on my wifes car when it was in for MOT, I already had the parts, £50 and an hour of my time.
Its not for everyone but if you have a driveway, a jack, axle stands, some mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools then you can do it. There is always a YouTube video to show you the process and the tools/parts you will need.
I save a fortune, well until I stuck a big brake kit from EBC on my car a couple of weeks back of course, still, was cheaper than paying for someone else to fit it, probably £300 I reckon.
donkmeister said:
The age old argument of whether the oil should be filled to the MAX line, or midway between MIN and MAX? Or was it actually below MIN?
I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
Service schedules for Skoda (and presumably other VAG) dealers say “fill with X litres” of oil (5.7 for a 2 litre Octavia IIRC) then say to top up to max. I had to top mine up last night because they did the first bit but not the second.I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
blueg33 said:
Court_S said:
J4CKO said:
Worth learning to diy brakes, they are a piece of piss, and the savings are huge.
Local fast fit place wanted £270 to change disks and pads on my wifes car when it was in for MOT, I already had the parts, £50 and an hour of my time.
Its not for everyone but if you have a driveway, a jack, axle stands, some mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools then you can do it. There is always a YouTube video to show you the process and the tools/parts you will need.
I save a fortune, well until I stuck a big brake kit from EBC on my car a couple of weeks back of course, still, was cheaper than paying for someone else to fit it, probably £300 I reckon.
I’d agree with that; discs and pads are really easy to do.Local fast fit place wanted £270 to change disks and pads on my wifes car when it was in for MOT, I already had the parts, £50 and an hour of my time.
Its not for everyone but if you have a driveway, a jack, axle stands, some mechanical aptitude and a few basic tools then you can do it. There is always a YouTube video to show you the process and the tools/parts you will need.
I save a fortune, well until I stuck a big brake kit from EBC on my car a couple of weeks back of course, still, was cheaper than paying for someone else to fit it, probably £300 I reckon.
donkmeister said:
The age old argument of whether the oil should be filled to the MAX line, or midway between MIN and MAX? Or was it actually below MIN?
I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
I wont say which car. But a certain manufacturers dry sumped performance car I've worked on many a time. If you fill it to max it brings on the warning lights on saying "oil overfilled, drain off" I've always been a "fill to MAX" advocate, but I saw a YT video recently where an engine builder showed the effects of oil level on flywheel BHP output of a seriously powerful V8, and it was surprising how much power was taken by sloshing an extra litre of oil around. Not going to start running my engines on less oil, but interesting all the same.
Most customers don't actually know how to check their oil on a dry sumped car (its not just a check when cold, there's a procedure to follow) so would just assume the tech was incompetent. As a rule we set those cars to half way.
Another manufacturers dry sumped mid engined 2 seat performance car is OK at max. c'est la vie
swisstoni said:
The model, as I understand it, is that the franchisee is given a pretty hard deal from the manufacturer.
They have to create a premises to a certain spec, sell the cars and deal with customers. Not a lot of money is made from this front of house operation.
It is left to the franchise to make their money on the service side.
If they were more honest, charged only for what was needed, would they get more business They have to create a premises to a certain spec, sell the cars and deal with customers. Not a lot of money is made from this front of house operation.
It is left to the franchise to make their money on the service side.
Pit Pony said:
swisstoni said:
The model, as I understand it, is that the franchisee is given a pretty hard deal from the manufacturer.
They have to create a premises to a certain spec, sell the cars and deal with customers. Not a lot of money is made from this front of house operation.
It is left to the franchise to make their money on the service side.
If they were more honest, charged only for what was needed, would they get more business They have to create a premises to a certain spec, sell the cars and deal with customers. Not a lot of money is made from this front of house operation.
It is left to the franchise to make their money on the service side.
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