Would superglue survive engine temps?
Discussion
Bit of a strange question, granted 
In a nutshell, one of the bolt threads on my EGR valve seems to have stripped, meaning that one of the bolts which should secure it to the manifold, doesn't.
Oily black mess all over the engine
Anyway, rather than buying a new EGR valve, I wondered if I filled the hole with superglue, then clamped everything together while it set, would be one way of bodging it?
Even if it would hold for a week or so, it would give me time to find a replacement from a scrappy!

In a nutshell, one of the bolt threads on my EGR valve seems to have stripped, meaning that one of the bolts which should secure it to the manifold, doesn't.
Oily black mess all over the engine

Anyway, rather than buying a new EGR valve, I wondered if I filled the hole with superglue, then clamped everything together while it set, would be one way of bodging it?
Even if it would hold for a week or so, it would give me time to find a replacement from a scrappy!
Helicoil = quick, simple, permanent, & you can remove the valve if necessary in the future without any problems.
http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8833/engine...
http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8833/engine...
Edited by Larry Dickman on Sunday 12th December 10:14
Stu R said:
It'd fracture almost immediately with the vibrations I'd expect.
Nonsense, I say go with the glue, unless youre trying to escape earths atmosphere. 
http://www.buffalo.edu/news/fast-execute.cgi/artic...
Not sure if this is suitable but might be worth a try, it doesn't go rock hard when set so might resist vibrations better than some of the other suggestions http://sugru.com/.
HTH
HTH
Thanks for all the suggestions
this is the part in question:

The holes on the front of the part are what we're talking about. I'll see if I can find some of this JB weld stuff, but I've also found a used EGR on evilbay for a smidge over a tenner, so that's possibly a safer alternative

The holes on the front of the part are what we're talking about. I'll see if I can find some of this JB weld stuff, but I've also found a used EGR on evilbay for a smidge over a tenner, so that's possibly a safer alternative

Edited by parapaul on Sunday 12th December 19:38
What would it take for me to convince you to helicoil it? I'm pretty sure the size you need is 6mm x 1.0mm & costs just £16.00 inc vat for the whole kit including drill, tap & insert tool. They are really easy to use & all you'll need is a hand drill, a tap wrench (a pair of mole grips would do) & a hammer. http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8831/engine...
I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.
ETA.. I've just noticed that your above post. Yes, go for the second hand valve for a tenner. A far better option than putting a load of crap around your valve then having the excess break off the inside & getting sucked into your engine.
I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.
ETA.. I've just noticed that your above post. Yes, go for the second hand valve for a tenner. A far better option than putting a load of crap around your valve then having the excess break off the inside & getting sucked into your engine.
Edited by Larry Dickman on Sunday 12th December 20:12
Larry Dickman said:
What would it take for me to convince you to helicoil it? I'm pretty sure the size you need is 6mm x 1.0mm & costs just £16.00 inc. vat for the whole kit including drill, tap & insert tool. They are really easy to use & all you'll need is a hand drill, a tap wrench (a pair of mole grips would do) & a hammer. http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8831/engine...
I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.
Go on then, I'm listening... I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.

How do they work? I'm guessing a hole drilled, then the helicoil screws in anticlockwise instead of clockwise?
JB Weld (plastic metal as I described it earlier) may be OK short term but it is quite soft and will not take any large load. You need to let it set for at least 24 hours. I have used it to block holes in bike engines but not had much success with using it to repair screw threads for more than a couple of days. Possibly best to wait for your evilbay bargain to arrive (presuming you don't need to use your car in the meantime).
If you are desperate then find a similar size but longer bolt long enough to go right through the hole and out the other side. Drill out the remaining thread and through the casting and then use the longer bolt with a nut on the end.
HTH
If you are desperate then find a similar size but longer bolt long enough to go right through the hole and out the other side. Drill out the remaining thread and through the casting and then use the longer bolt with a nut on the end.
HTH
parapaul said:
Larry Dickman said:
What would it take for me to convince you to helicoil it? I'm pretty sure the size you need is 6mm x 1.0mm & costs just £16.00 inc. vat for the whole kit including drill, tap & insert tool. They are really easy to use & all you'll need is a hand drill, a tap wrench (a pair of mole grips would do) & a hammer. http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_8831/engine...
I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.
Go on then, I'm listening... I've never understood why people will spend good money trying to bodge something with no guaranteed results rather than spending a few pound more & doing the job properly.

How do they work? I'm guessing a hole drilled, then the helicoil screws in anticlockwise instead of clockwise?

Yes you drill a hole with the drill that comes supplied, then you tap the hole with the tap supplied which is really easy in that alloy, all you need to do is make sure that it is straightish. Then using the tool supplied screw in the coil, it can only go one way, then just break off the tang at the bottom using the tang removal tool & a hammer which is also easy.
Edited by Larry Dickman on Sunday 12th December 20:19
Gassing Station | General Gassing [Archive] | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff