STP products, worth it?
Discussion
King Rolex said:
I was thinking about buying some STP stuff from Halfrauds.... injector cleaners etc, are they worth the cash, or a waste of mooney?
cheers
IMO your money would be better spent on more frequent oil changes and servicing (admittedly the money saved would not add up to much servicing but you get the idea)cheers
In my High mileage Golfs and Jetta's (130k - 200K) I always added a bottle of STP oil Treatment in with each oil change.
Seemed to reduce the amount of smoke and mechanical rattles from the engines, it was only £5 a bottle on Trade Card from Halfords.
Probably didn't give any performance benefit but I elieve it did prolong the life of the engine and make it a smoother drive.
Seemed to reduce the amount of smoke and mechanical rattles from the engines, it was only £5 a bottle on Trade Card from Halfords.
Probably didn't give any performance benefit but I elieve it did prolong the life of the engine and make it a smoother drive.
ian in lancs said:
King Rolex said:
I was thinking about buying some STP stuff from Halfrauds.... injector cleaners etc, are they worth the cash, or a waste of mooney?
cheers
complete waste of money.cheers
BMW specifically advise against using them in the engine, gearbox and back axle.
Most of the products are just not needed these days, save your money for something worthwhile
ian in lancs said:
King Rolex said:
I was thinking about buying some STP stuff from Halfrauds.... injector cleaners etc, are they worth the cash, or a waste of mooney?
cheers
complete waste of money.cheers
BMW specifically advise against using them in the engine, gearbox and back axle.
Just as bad as what STP does if you ask me...
Ive sat and thought about how to reply to this without sounding like I want to advertise a product (the one that i sell) but as no-one knows what brand I sell I shall say it anyway without mentioning any manufacturer.
This is an example of a demonstration I carried out.
One of my garages had a customers car in with a tickover and running problem. It was a 53 plate small engine petrol Focus. No faults showing on scanner. Garage had allready changed TPS sensor.
I suggested a compression test. Results were, cylinder 1 was 80 psi, 2 was 120psi, 3 was 60 psi, 4 was 105 psi. The car had around a 1/4 tank of fuel. We added an injector cleaner and a fuel treatment to the tank. The injector cleaner does only what it says and then burns off, the fuel treatment starts at the tank, cleans the injector and inlet valve, turns to gas and cleans the combustion chamber exhaust valve EGR and Lambda of contaminants and carbon build up. The garage then road tested the car for 15 mins keeping the revs up.
Compression test after was 100psi, 105psi, 105 psi, 100 psi. And the idle was drastically improved. The treatment and clearly cleaned the valves and the crowns of the piston(s) levelling out the compressions to somewhere more reasonable. The owner of the car returned to the garage the following day commenting how it was like a different car to drive.
Just and if not more importantly for engine longevity is a good qualty engine flush when changing oil. When you drain oil you never remove it all as it sits in the oil baths and galleries. During normal running of a car crankcase acids are produced. If left within the system when the oil is changed, these acids immediately go to work breaking down the new oil leading to the creation of lacquers and varnishes which are deposited on the oil system components such as Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Variable Valve Timing Systems and Piston Rings. A good quality flush will remove more of the contaminated oil and neutralise already built up acids enabling your new oil to last longer and do the job its supposed to do better.
But like everything do your homework and buy the right stuff, some of it is no more than snake oil. Many fuel system cleaners are solvent based and by there very nature burn off as soon as they hit the injector, some flushes have little or no lubrication and can cause damage where as some are too thick and oil like to do do any good.
Our company only sells to the garage industry and sell over 100,000 bottles a month to people who know what they are talking about.
Still think it doesn't work?
Hope that helps some of you make an informed decision, for me if I ever leave the company I work for I would go out of my way to buy it and use in my vehicles.
Mike
This is an example of a demonstration I carried out.
One of my garages had a customers car in with a tickover and running problem. It was a 53 plate small engine petrol Focus. No faults showing on scanner. Garage had allready changed TPS sensor.
I suggested a compression test. Results were, cylinder 1 was 80 psi, 2 was 120psi, 3 was 60 psi, 4 was 105 psi. The car had around a 1/4 tank of fuel. We added an injector cleaner and a fuel treatment to the tank. The injector cleaner does only what it says and then burns off, the fuel treatment starts at the tank, cleans the injector and inlet valve, turns to gas and cleans the combustion chamber exhaust valve EGR and Lambda of contaminants and carbon build up. The garage then road tested the car for 15 mins keeping the revs up.
Compression test after was 100psi, 105psi, 105 psi, 100 psi. And the idle was drastically improved. The treatment and clearly cleaned the valves and the crowns of the piston(s) levelling out the compressions to somewhere more reasonable. The owner of the car returned to the garage the following day commenting how it was like a different car to drive.
Just and if not more importantly for engine longevity is a good qualty engine flush when changing oil. When you drain oil you never remove it all as it sits in the oil baths and galleries. During normal running of a car crankcase acids are produced. If left within the system when the oil is changed, these acids immediately go to work breaking down the new oil leading to the creation of lacquers and varnishes which are deposited on the oil system components such as Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Variable Valve Timing Systems and Piston Rings. A good quality flush will remove more of the contaminated oil and neutralise already built up acids enabling your new oil to last longer and do the job its supposed to do better.
But like everything do your homework and buy the right stuff, some of it is no more than snake oil. Many fuel system cleaners are solvent based and by there very nature burn off as soon as they hit the injector, some flushes have little or no lubrication and can cause damage where as some are too thick and oil like to do do any good.
Our company only sells to the garage industry and sell over 100,000 bottles a month to people who know what they are talking about.
Still think it doesn't work?
Hope that helps some of you make an informed decision, for me if I ever leave the company I work for I would go out of my way to buy it and use in my vehicles.
Mike
My money is on Forte stuff.
I started my working life as a mechanic, and it is the only stuff we would use in the garage. It actually worked.
Maybe something else has came along, but that Forte kit was bob on. I still use the oil flush when I do a change, and the injector cleaner made a very big difference to a friends ridiculously huge mileage BMW 525.
I started my working life as a mechanic, and it is the only stuff we would use in the garage. It actually worked.
Maybe something else has came along, but that Forte kit was bob on. I still use the oil flush when I do a change, and the injector cleaner made a very big difference to a friends ridiculously huge mileage BMW 525.
Joecooool said:
ian in lancs said:
King Rolex said:
I was thinking about buying some STP stuff from Halfrauds.... injector cleaners etc, are they worth the cash, or a waste of mooney?
cheers
complete waste of money.cheers
BMW specifically advise against using them in the engine, gearbox and back axle.
Just as bad as what STP does if you ask me...
Most, if not all, the oil companies will tell you extra additives are a waste of time.
funkyboogalooo said:
Ive sat and thought about how to reply to this without sounding like I want to advertise a product (the one that i sell) but as no-one knows what brand I sell I shall say it anyway without mentioning any manufacturer.
This is an example of a demonstration I carried out.
One of my garages had a customers car in with a tickover and running problem. It was a 53 plate small engine petrol Focus. No faults showing on scanner. Garage had allready changed TPS sensor.
I suggested a compression test. Results were, cylinder 1 was 80 psi, 2 was 120psi, 3 was 60 psi, 4 was 105 psi. The car had around a 1/4 tank of fuel. We added an injector cleaner and a fuel treatment to the tank. The injector cleaner does only what it says and then burns off, the fuel treatment starts at the tank, cleans the injector and inlet valve, turns to gas and cleans the combustion chamber exhaust valve EGR and Lambda of contaminants and carbon build up. The garage then road tested the car for 15 mins keeping the revs up.
Compression test after was 100psi, 105psi, 105 psi, 100 psi. And the idle was drastically improved. The treatment and clearly cleaned the valves and the crowns of the piston(s) levelling out the compressions to somewhere more reasonable. The owner of the car returned to the garage the following day commenting how it was like a different car to drive.
Just and if not more importantly for engine longevity is a good qualty engine flush when changing oil. When you drain oil you never remove it all as it sits in the oil baths and galleries. During normal running of a car crankcase acids are produced. If left within the system when the oil is changed, these acids immediately go to work breaking down the new oil leading to the creation of lacquers and varnishes which are deposited on the oil system components such as Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Variable Valve Timing Systems and Piston Rings. A good quality flush will remove more of the contaminated oil and neutralise already built up acids enabling your new oil to last longer and do the job its supposed to do better.
But like everything do your homework and buy the right stuff, some of it is no more than snake oil. Many fuel system cleaners are solvent based and by there very nature burn off as soon as they hit the injector, some flushes have little or no lubrication and can cause damage where as some are too thick and oil like to do do any good.
Our company only sells to the garage industry and sell over 100,000 bottles a month to people who know what they are talking about.
Still think it doesn't work?
Hope that helps some of you make an informed decision, for me if I ever leave the company I work for I would go out of my way to buy it and use in my vehicles.
Mike
How do you think it lowered the pressure in #2?This is an example of a demonstration I carried out.
One of my garages had a customers car in with a tickover and running problem. It was a 53 plate small engine petrol Focus. No faults showing on scanner. Garage had allready changed TPS sensor.
I suggested a compression test. Results were, cylinder 1 was 80 psi, 2 was 120psi, 3 was 60 psi, 4 was 105 psi. The car had around a 1/4 tank of fuel. We added an injector cleaner and a fuel treatment to the tank. The injector cleaner does only what it says and then burns off, the fuel treatment starts at the tank, cleans the injector and inlet valve, turns to gas and cleans the combustion chamber exhaust valve EGR and Lambda of contaminants and carbon build up. The garage then road tested the car for 15 mins keeping the revs up.
Compression test after was 100psi, 105psi, 105 psi, 100 psi. And the idle was drastically improved. The treatment and clearly cleaned the valves and the crowns of the piston(s) levelling out the compressions to somewhere more reasonable. The owner of the car returned to the garage the following day commenting how it was like a different car to drive.
Just and if not more importantly for engine longevity is a good qualty engine flush when changing oil. When you drain oil you never remove it all as it sits in the oil baths and galleries. During normal running of a car crankcase acids are produced. If left within the system when the oil is changed, these acids immediately go to work breaking down the new oil leading to the creation of lacquers and varnishes which are deposited on the oil system components such as Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Variable Valve Timing Systems and Piston Rings. A good quality flush will remove more of the contaminated oil and neutralise already built up acids enabling your new oil to last longer and do the job its supposed to do better.
But like everything do your homework and buy the right stuff, some of it is no more than snake oil. Many fuel system cleaners are solvent based and by there very nature burn off as soon as they hit the injector, some flushes have little or no lubrication and can cause damage where as some are too thick and oil like to do do any good.
Our company only sells to the garage industry and sell over 100,000 bottles a month to people who know what they are talking about.
Still think it doesn't work?
Hope that helps some of you make an informed decision, for me if I ever leave the company I work for I would go out of my way to buy it and use in my vehicles.
Mike
shalmaneser said:
damnit, I've just done an oil change and now I'm desperate to do another with engine cleaner stuff! could do with knowing what products you sell, I too have hear that forte stuff is pretty ace but i didn't think it was available for the general public...
We used to sell it to Joe Public if he wanted some. Not expensive either.It doesnt have pull some visible crap out of the engine via the oil if its a high miler and it's the first time it's been flushed. You will be surprised.
Years ago I did a friends fathers 405 td, a high mileage car but it'd had an oilchange every 5k since new. What came out the time I used the Forte stuff for him was like coal tar.
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