STP products, worth it?
Discussion
funkyboogalooo said:
You got me, its Forte. I would reckon it lowered the compression on 2 by ceaning the crown of the piston, effectively making a larger void (bad phrasing but cant think how else to word it) so lower compression.
Mike
Thats a hell of a drop and how do you explain the other increase, assuming that they would have suffered a drop also, by the piston cleaning theory?Mike
Im sorry, I have used some of these additives and they probably do some good, but I just can't see how they could give you that change in compression pressures.
funkyboogalooo said:
You got me, its Forte. I would reckon it lowered the compression on 2 by ceaning the crown of the piston, effectively making a larger void (bad phrasing but cant think how else to word it) so lower compression.
Mike
What do I win for my guesswork then Mike
Congrats on selling the only stuff of it's kind I'd actually use
By cleaning the seats of the valves so they would seal better, contamination isnt neccesarily going to build up in exactly the same place in each chamber is it. I didnt have the benefit of seeing the inside of the engine.
Each to their own beliefs but as I say a great many garages use it.
Out of curiosity, how do you think a car that has serious running problems was fixed then when nothing else was done that could have affected the outcome?
Each to their own beliefs but as I say a great many garages use it.
Out of curiosity, how do you think a car that has serious running problems was fixed then when nothing else was done that could have affected the outcome?
V6 said:
King Rolex said:
I was thinking about buying some STP stuff from Halfrauds.... injector cleaners etc, are they worth the cash, or a waste of mooney?
cheers
IMO your money would be better spent on more frequent oil changes and servicing (admittedly the money saved would not add up to much servicing but you get the idea)cheers
te in my opinion - 
The quickest way to buy it is go to www.goodgaragescheme.com these garages all use Forte. Put in your postcode and it will show your closest.
funkyboogalooo said:
The quickest way to buy it is go to www.goodgaragescheme.com these garages all use Forte. Put in your postcode and it will show your closest.
one very close to me, cheers 
Ah, thats great, all very interesting seeing as I've just posted in the MX% section about what engine flush to use to help fix a sticking HLA...
Except.. I cant sodding buy this Forte stuff your all raving about!
What is available off the shelf?
I presume its a car of add it to the oil, run for a short while, change oil?
Except.. I cant sodding buy this Forte stuff your all raving about!
What is available off the shelf?
I presume its a car of add it to the oil, run for a short while, change oil?
Joecooool said:
ian in lancs said:
King Rolex said:
I was thinking about buying some STP stuff from Halfrauds.... injector cleaners etc, are they worth the cash, or a waste of mooney?
cheers
complete waste of money.cheers
BMW specifically advise against using them in the engine, gearbox and back axle.
Just as bad as what STP does if you ask me...
funkyboogalooo said:
Ive sat and thought about how to reply to this without sounding like I want to advertise a product (the one that i sell) but as no-one knows what brand I sell I shall say it anyway without mentioning any manufacturer.
This is an example of a demonstration I carried out.
One of my garages had a customers car in with a tickover and running problem. It was a 53 plate small engine petrol Focus. No faults showing on scanner. Garage had allready changed TPS sensor.
I suggested a compression test. Results were, cylinder 1 was 80 psi, 2 was 120psi, 3 was 60 psi, 4 was 105 psi. The car had around a 1/4 tank of fuel. We added an injector cleaner and a fuel treatment to the tank. The injector cleaner does only what it says and then burns off, the fuel treatment starts at the tank, cleans the injector and inlet valve, turns to gas and cleans the combustion chamber exhaust valve EGR and Lambda of contaminants and carbon build up. The garage then road tested the car for 15 mins keeping the revs up.
Compression test after was 100psi, 105psi, 105 psi, 100 psi. And the idle was drastically improved. The treatment and clearly cleaned the valves and the crowns of the piston(s) levelling out the compressions to somewhere more reasonable. The owner of the car returned to the garage the following day commenting how it was like a different car to drive.
Just and if not more importantly for engine longevity is a good qualty engine flush when changing oil. When you drain oil you never remove it all as it sits in the oil baths and galleries. During normal running of a car crankcase acids are produced. If left within the system when the oil is changed, these acids immediately go to work breaking down the new oil leading to the creation of lacquers and varnishes which are deposited on the oil system components such as Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Variable Valve Timing Systems and Piston Rings. A good quality flush will remove more of the contaminated oil and neutralise already built up acids enabling your new oil to last longer and do the job its supposed to do better.
But like everything do your homework and buy the right stuff, some of it is no more than snake oil. Many fuel system cleaners are solvent based and by there very nature burn off as soon as they hit the injector, some flushes have little or no lubrication and can cause damage where as some are too thick and oil like to do do any good.
Our company only sells to the garage industry and sell over 100,000 bottles a month to people who know what they are talking about.
Still think it doesn't work?
Hope that helps some of you make an informed decision, for me if I ever leave the company I work for I would go out of my way to buy it and use in my vehicles.
Mike
I can understand the principle of injector cleaners but I understand when independently tested results were unconvincing. Anyway, don't fuels have cleaners and detergents already in them?This is an example of a demonstration I carried out.
One of my garages had a customers car in with a tickover and running problem. It was a 53 plate small engine petrol Focus. No faults showing on scanner. Garage had allready changed TPS sensor.
I suggested a compression test. Results were, cylinder 1 was 80 psi, 2 was 120psi, 3 was 60 psi, 4 was 105 psi. The car had around a 1/4 tank of fuel. We added an injector cleaner and a fuel treatment to the tank. The injector cleaner does only what it says and then burns off, the fuel treatment starts at the tank, cleans the injector and inlet valve, turns to gas and cleans the combustion chamber exhaust valve EGR and Lambda of contaminants and carbon build up. The garage then road tested the car for 15 mins keeping the revs up.
Compression test after was 100psi, 105psi, 105 psi, 100 psi. And the idle was drastically improved. The treatment and clearly cleaned the valves and the crowns of the piston(s) levelling out the compressions to somewhere more reasonable. The owner of the car returned to the garage the following day commenting how it was like a different car to drive.
Just and if not more importantly for engine longevity is a good qualty engine flush when changing oil. When you drain oil you never remove it all as it sits in the oil baths and galleries. During normal running of a car crankcase acids are produced. If left within the system when the oil is changed, these acids immediately go to work breaking down the new oil leading to the creation of lacquers and varnishes which are deposited on the oil system components such as Hydraulic Valve Lifters, Variable Valve Timing Systems and Piston Rings. A good quality flush will remove more of the contaminated oil and neutralise already built up acids enabling your new oil to last longer and do the job its supposed to do better.
But like everything do your homework and buy the right stuff, some of it is no more than snake oil. Many fuel system cleaners are solvent based and by there very nature burn off as soon as they hit the injector, some flushes have little or no lubrication and can cause damage where as some are too thick and oil like to do do any good.
Our company only sells to the garage industry and sell over 100,000 bottles a month to people who know what they are talking about.
Still think it doesn't work?
Hope that helps some of you make an informed decision, for me if I ever leave the company I work for I would go out of my way to buy it and use in my vehicles.
Mike
You can make this magic potion yourself for a fraction of the price 
Injector cleaner is usually just Paraffin. You can buy 4 litres of the stuff in Homebase for about £4. 250ml in a 60L tank will do the trick.
Products like 'Cataclean' which claim to lower emissions, improve MPG and increase performance usually contain Acetone (nail varnish remover). 70ml to a 60L tank will do the job.
Injector cleaner is usually just Paraffin. You can buy 4 litres of the stuff in Homebase for about £4. 250ml in a 60L tank will do the trick.
Products like 'Cataclean' which claim to lower emissions, improve MPG and increase performance usually contain Acetone (nail varnish remover). 70ml to a 60L tank will do the job.
ian in lancs said:
I can understand the principle of injector cleaners but I understand when independently tested results were unconvincing. Anyway, don't fuels have cleaners and detergents already in them?
Allegedly yes. But tbh I don't really know how good they are and whether they vary from oil company to companyGassing Station | General Gassing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff