Solar Panel for Caravan
Discussion
Hi All,
I'm interested in getting off the beaten track with the caravan so think I need to go down the solar panel route.
We have a 2008 Ace Jubilee Equerry, which has a 110ah leisure battery fitted.
What portable solar panel would I need to keep this topped up enough for 'normal' use (This doesn't include watching the TV or using a hairdryer. Presume we could charge iPhoes/iPads though?).
I've heard of people fitting 2nd batteries as well but this seems a lot of extra weight and also I obviously don't have room for 2 batteries in my battery compartment.
I was thinking something along the lines of the 90Wp version of this:
http://www.solarleisure.co.uk/solar-panels/portabl...
Any advice gratefully received
I'm interested in getting off the beaten track with the caravan so think I need to go down the solar panel route.
We have a 2008 Ace Jubilee Equerry, which has a 110ah leisure battery fitted.
What portable solar panel would I need to keep this topped up enough for 'normal' use (This doesn't include watching the TV or using a hairdryer. Presume we could charge iPhoes/iPads though?).
I've heard of people fitting 2nd batteries as well but this seems a lot of extra weight and also I obviously don't have room for 2 batteries in my battery compartment.
I was thinking something along the lines of the 90Wp version of this:
http://www.solarleisure.co.uk/solar-panels/portabl...
Any advice gratefully received
I have a 100amp solar panel kindly donated by the parents. Where my van is in storage, it tops the battery up for me between visits. Im normally on mains there, so only the 12v lights, the toilet etc use the battery, so it gets rather little use.
They have a 250amp on the roof of their new motorhome, which charges their battery.
From memory though, with the 100a, they used to do 7 days, running with no hookup, the pair of them in a modern (2013 Bailey Senator thing) with all normal use. Lights, TV, etc, and not get into trouble.
They have a 250amp on the roof of their new motorhome, which charges their battery.
From memory though, with the 100a, they used to do 7 days, running with no hookup, the pair of them in a modern (2013 Bailey Senator thing) with all normal use. Lights, TV, etc, and not get into trouble.
I'm afraid I dont recall the maths, so some googling will be required, but a 110ah battery requires a reasonable ammount of current to kick off the charging. I have 3x110ah batteries and 3x120w panels. I can't charge all three batteries at the same time so I have them on switches so they can be charged individually. I've got the ctek D250s (does MPPT) dual and smartpass, so can charge from alternator and panels at the same time when I'm on the move - that's more than enough to get charge into the batteries in no time. the other benefit of this arrangement is that when the leisure batteries are full the D250s routes current to the starter battery and keeps it topped up through the winter.
Don't forget to put fuses in your circuit when you're running the cabling around.
Don't forget to put fuses in your circuit when you're running the cabling around.
We use a 50w panel on the boat. 2 x 90ah leisure batteries and its been great for 2 years. Quite a few electics onboard and have no issues, never needed to be taken off to be charged.
I find if you add in say a folding mech the price rockets. You could easily make a stand yourself.
We got our panel from the company below. They have this that may interests you as its £100 cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-12V-folding-solar-ch...
I find if you add in say a folding mech the price rockets. You could easily make a stand yourself.
We got our panel from the company below. They have this that may interests you as its £100 cheaper
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/80W-12V-folding-solar-ch...
Edited by bazza white on Friday 11th July 20:15
Rosscow said:
Sounds like an awful lot of hassle to be honest.
May just resort to carrying a charged spare 110ah battery in the car and just swap them over when one dies!!
As I posted above, that's what I decided. We've only once needed the second battery!May just resort to carrying a charged spare 110ah battery in the car and just swap them over when one dies!!
Our split relay is one of these http://www.expedition-equipment.com/products/batte.... Bought it second hand and also use it as a power pack when in the tent, use the battery with my electric outboard, and to run a fridge when at Le Mans. That said, it's still overkill!
Can someone explain to me as to how the solar panels are mounted and how the wiring is routed into the habitation quarters? I'm a real newbie and it goes against everything I know to start making holes in a roof
I'm thinking of having them fitted as I have just bought a Geist Matterhorn and will be mainly at motorsport venues where there is no EHU
I'm thinking of having them fitted as I have just bought a Geist Matterhorn and will be mainly at motorsport venues where there is no EHU
ajondyh said:
Can someone explain to me as to how the solar panels are mounted and how the wiring is routed into the habitation quarters? I'm a real newbie and it goes against everything I know to start making holes in a roof
I'm thinking of having them fitted as I have just bought a Geist Matterhorn and will be mainly at motorsport venues where there is no EHU
Not many Giests about!I'm thinking of having them fitted as I have just bought a Geist Matterhorn and will be mainly at motorsport venues where there is no EHU
Might want to look at doubling your battery bank (at least two batteries) and ideally over 100-140W PV array with a decent charge controller. Generally the solar panels sit on either posh looking ABS plastic "aero" mounts or you can use Aluminium Angle leaving at least 30mm gap between the panel frame and the roof (they don't like getting hot). The brackets / mounts are either riveted or preferably screwed on with some good quality self tappers (will need to pilot the panel frame though) the brackets are then bonded and screwed onto the roof using something like SikaFlex 512 (we always screw them down as 99% of the vans are driven away afterwards).
The cable from solar panel should be secured to the roof cable tie bases or trunking is good (trunking can lead to pooling of rain water - leave gaps), the cable is passed through a water proof gland (cable entry box) and connected into a solar regulator. The solar regulator should be as close as possible to the batteries and connected with good quality cabling (automotive flat twin core is easily found at motor factors).
The magic is hiding the cables
donaircooleone said:
Not many Giests about!
Might want to look at doubling your battery bank (at least two batteries) and ideally over 100-140W PV array with a decent charge controller. Generally the solar panels sit on either posh looking ABS plastic "aero" mounts or you can use Aluminium Angle leaving at least 30mm gap between the panel frame and the roof (they don't like getting hot). The brackets / mounts are either riveted or preferably screwed on with some good quality self tappers (will need to pilot the panel frame though) the brackets are then bonded and screwed onto the roof using something like SikaFlex 512 (we always screw them down as 99% of the vans are driven away afterwards).
The cable from solar panel should be secured to the roof cable tie bases or trunking is good (trunking can lead to pooling of rain water - leave gaps), the cable is passed through a water proof gland (cable entry box) and connected into a solar regulator. The solar regulator should be as close as possible to the batteries and connected with good quality cabling (automotive flat twin core is easily found at motor factors).
The magic is hiding the cables
Thanks for the info. Just one thing that I'm unsure about is how thick is the roof. ie: What type of self tappers to use and what depth of pilot hole? I'm guessing they don't look cool from the inside if you can see them Might want to look at doubling your battery bank (at least two batteries) and ideally over 100-140W PV array with a decent charge controller. Generally the solar panels sit on either posh looking ABS plastic "aero" mounts or you can use Aluminium Angle leaving at least 30mm gap between the panel frame and the roof (they don't like getting hot). The brackets / mounts are either riveted or preferably screwed on with some good quality self tappers (will need to pilot the panel frame though) the brackets are then bonded and screwed onto the roof using something like SikaFlex 512 (we always screw them down as 99% of the vans are driven away afterwards).
The cable from solar panel should be secured to the roof cable tie bases or trunking is good (trunking can lead to pooling of rain water - leave gaps), the cable is passed through a water proof gland (cable entry box) and connected into a solar regulator. The solar regulator should be as close as possible to the batteries and connected with good quality cabling (automotive flat twin core is easily found at motor factors).
The magic is hiding the cables
ajondyh said:
hanks for the info. Just one thing that I'm unsure about is how thick is the roof. ie: What type of self tappers to use and what depth of pilot hole? I'm guessing they don't look cool from the inside if you can see them
It's all in the detail, depends on the 'van.Easiest way is to make the hole for the cables first so you can then get an idea of the construction. Normally find 4.2 x 13mm adequate for most aluminium base plates / brackets - sometimes more if the roof looks flimsy and has a ply 2nd layer.
Pilot with a small bit - just go through the first layer. Pump SikaFlex (other suitable sealant/adhesives available) into the pilot hole and screw it in then cap with more SikaFlex.
Don't use countersinking screws, use pan head screws that are preferably stainless or blue zinc coated.
It's all about having the right tools/consumables.
LouD86 said:
I have a 100amp solar panel kindly donated by the parents. Where my van is in storage, it tops the battery up for me between visits. Im normally on mains there, so only the 12v lights, the toilet etc use the battery, so it gets rather little use.
They have a 250amp on the roof of their new motorhome, which charges their battery.
From memory though, with the 100a, they used to do 7 days, running with no hookup, the pair of them in a modern (2013 Bailey Senator thing) with all normal use. Lights, TV, etc, and not get into trouble.
Think you mean watts not amps They have a 250amp on the roof of their new motorhome, which charges their battery.
From memory though, with the 100a, they used to do 7 days, running with no hookup, the pair of them in a modern (2013 Bailey Senator thing) with all normal use. Lights, TV, etc, and not get into trouble.
BB
IN51GHT said:
I recently fitted a 100w rigid panel on our camper, does the job well giving around 6.5A in direct sunlight at this time of year.
Got one on my Bongo from Bongo owner & solar specialist "dodgey".. Roger ...100w.. 6+ amps....on the Bongo with compressor fridge, TV,satellite,radio,phones etc charging .....did Le Mans no worries and I haven't hooked up since last October... I also have it so when the leisure is full... The starter battery benefits from the what would be unused charge....solar is way to go....fitting a 100w to the caravan soon and putting extra 12v sockets in for off grid....IN51GHT said:
I recently fitted a 100w rigid panel on our camper, does the job well giving around 6.5A in direct sunlight at this time of year.
That's precisely the sort I'd recommend. I've seen one similar here:http://www.trueshopping.co.uk/product/Biard_Solar_...
... but I prefer the mounting option yours came with. Can you get brackets to completely enclose the panel? Those plastic brackets look like they would shield the panel from edge-strikes while you're driving along. I know it's up high and less likely to experience a strike but for the sake or putting the mounting brackets along the leading edge, it seems worthwhile.
Where'd you get yours from?
Also, do you know how you could hook up a number of those panels to a single controller?.. or even if it's possible to do so?
I'm thinking that more panels means quicker charging. More batteries means more "reservoir" available on tap. There's room for 5 or 6 of these panels on top of most caravans and I could make room for 3x 110Ah leisure batteries without too much hassle. That would give us total freedom from "the grid".
I'm thinking that more panels means quicker charging. More batteries means more "reservoir" available on tap. There's room for 5 or 6 of these panels on top of most caravans and I could make room for 3x 110Ah leisure batteries without too much hassle. That would give us total freedom from "the grid".
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