Early Daf 45 Handbrake comming on when driving issues
Discussion
HI all new to this. Does anybody have any idea why the handbrake on my Daf 45 130 turbo ( converted horsebox) decides to suddenly lock on while driving. Rear wheels lock up then after a period hour or so ably to move. Stripped brakes down cannot firn any issue with them,. any idea where to look next. due for a plate start of march but unable to drive untill i figure out what is wrong. also looking for workshop manual. It s a Fa model
nickjward said:
HI all new to this. Does anybody have any idea why the handbrake on my Daf 45 130 turbo ( converted horsebox) decides to suddenly lock on while driving. Rear wheels lock up then after a period hour or so ably to move. Stripped brakes down cannot firn any issue with them,. any idea where to look next. due for a plate start of march but unable to drive untill i figure out what is wrong. also looking for workshop manual. It s a Fa model
The only thing I really remember with them was getting the handbrake efficiency good enough for the test ,
so are the drums getting hot then locking ? maybe a bit too tightly adjusted ?? free off when cooled down ???
then is it an air problem ?the service brakes work with air over hydraulic one of the master cylinders sticking ??
or the valve on the foot brake faulty ..
Or the hand brake chamber is held off with air pressure so if you lose air pressure the rear brakes will come on,,,
hand brake valve or one of the circuits low (multi circuit valve on the main air tank ) ???
Hope that helps ...
Thanks Powerstroke, I probably did not make it very clear. I was driving along round a roundabout hit a bumpy bit of road, heard a bang and handbrake came on locking rear brakes on. It would not release on the handbrake lever. after around hour and a half I was able to release the brakes and drive normally. ( after blocking the road - unhappy men in blue).
My feeling is a loose pipe or a broken pipe exhausting air when being bumped about. Any ideas.
My feeling is a loose pipe or a broken pipe exhausting air when being bumped about. Any ideas.
nickjward said:
Thanks Powerstroke, I probably did not make it very clear. I was driving along round a roundabout hit a bumpy bit of road, heard a bang and handbrake came on locking rear brakes on. It would not release on the handbrake lever. after around hour and a half I was able to release the brakes and drive normally. ( after blocking the road - unhappy men in blue).
My feeling is a loose pipe or a broken pipe exhausting air when being bumped about. Any ideas.
I would think a split or loose pipe would blow all the time , but if you have got a leak somewhere then the handbrake coming on would be the first thing that would happen if you lose air pressure , maybe a split where the cab moves relative to the chassis , My feeling is a loose pipe or a broken pipe exhausting air when being bumped about. Any ideas.
you could try chocking the wheels safely then build up air and release the handbrake stop the engine and check for leaks . some washing up liquid and water in a squeezy bottle helps ...
but first make sure it builds up air ok as if the compressor is getting tired just normal braking can exhaust enough air to have the hand brake come on before it puts enough back in the system ...
might be worth getting a mobile HGV mechanic to look it over , as if you get stopped by dvsa or take it for a test and they find something they consider dangerous they will put a prohibition on it and you will have to get it recovered ...
£££$$$$ !!! Thanks for your input our mech at work thought about it and said good luck!
The air gauges showed good pressure def not low. Do not remember if the handbrake light was on when it stopped (dont think so). Seemed to be no air at hand brake when stopped, did not feel same as normal. Later on after about hour and half handbrake lever felt normal ( air pressure running through as normal resistance to lever movement. Sounds odd but thats how much my mind thought at the time, among thoughts of panic cant move stopped at roundabout. Looking for l oose pipe etc tonight.
The air gauges showed good pressure def not low. Do not remember if the handbrake light was on when it stopped (dont think so). Seemed to be no air at hand brake when stopped, did not feel same as normal. Later on after about hour and half handbrake lever felt normal ( air pressure running through as normal resistance to lever movement. Sounds odd but thats how much my mind thought at the time, among thoughts of panic cant move stopped at roundabout. Looking for l oose pipe etc tonight.
HI Powerstroke, agree re VOSA wont' be moving it till I know what it is, can only imagine damage if moving down motorway with horses then handbrake drops on. Does not bear thinking about. Am speaking to mobile mech tonight. Normally do own maintenance but sometimes better to put up hands and say need help. Will advise what i find eventually so others can benefit from it.
Thanks Matt. Had a look tonigbt cannot see any brakes or leaks. Put handbrake lever in off position then drained the thanks manually by all drain cocks. Expected handbrake to release and lock on. It stayed off. When I cycled the lever handbrake came on. Then would not operate. Does this confirm what you think.
That doesn't really help in this diagnosis, but what you have described there is how it should work.
My guess is that the four way valve got stuck and stopped the air from getting to to auxillary system, hence why you had no air at the lever when you were stuck. Has the vehicle been standing? Was the air system full of moisture?
My guess is that the four way valve got stuck and stopped the air from getting to to auxillary system, hence why you had no air at the lever when you were stuck. Has the vehicle been standing? Was the air system full of moisture?
Hi Spoke to sg4 air in COVENTRY. After explaining to the tech guy he confirmed matts comment of the 4 way valve fault. Now having trouble getting the push in pipe fittings to release any ideas.
Also does anyone have a copy of the brake air circuit I could beg a copy from many thanks desperate Nick.
Also does anyone have a copy of the brake air circuit I could beg a copy from many thanks desperate Nick.
If they are definitely push fit connectors onto plastic pipe, exhaust all of the air out of the air system first. Then push the pipe and the collar inwards, and whilst holding the collar in, yank the pipe back out. Hold the collar in with something like the tip of a screwdriver or a pair of long nose pliers or something to put a bit of pressure on it.
Don't take this the wrong way but please get a proper fitter or even better take it to an indi dealer who can do this work and then brake test the vehicle. If you don't even know how to remove the air lines from the air block then I would strongly advise you are not competent to do this kind of work on a vehicle like this. Air brakes require specialist knowledge you could end up seriously injuring yourself just working on them. Most mobile fitters would charge <£100/hr and you are looking at a couple of hours max I would have thought.
We would normally cut them off and replace with new ones.
If there is no slack (normally the case) then might have to re run the line or splice it further down if its going to be neat and tidy.
Always ensuring its brake tested before going back OTR after any brake work and the record is kept on file.
If there is no slack (normally the case) then might have to re run the line or splice it further down if its going to be neat and tidy.
Always ensuring its brake tested before going back OTR after any brake work and the record is kept on file.
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