One wheel spins more than other
Discussion
Mercedes C240 2002 32K miles. ( Rear Wheel Drive )
Noticed today that when jacked up, the passenger wheel moves more freely than the driver if I spin it by hand.
I have taken the brakes apart and thoroughly cleaned them and lubricated the sliders and put ceramic brake grease on the contact points but still seems to be the case.
Can't see any evidence of runout on the disc. No issues braking at all, no juddering or pulsing or vibrations etc, all lovely and smooth. Car drives great, no loss of speed or anything like that,
Could it be old and dry wheel bearings, possibly a stuck calliper? I have had the car sat cold for a few hours and still seems to have more resistance on the driver than the passenger.
Any ideas ? The only thing I noticed is the backing plate of the pads ( on the driver AND passenger ) had slightly come apart. Yet the only resistance appears to be on the driver, not the passenger.
![](https://forums-images.pistonheads.com/637449/202406227609055?resize=720)
Is it just me or does the pad wear look a bit wonky ?
Noticed today that when jacked up, the passenger wheel moves more freely than the driver if I spin it by hand.
I have taken the brakes apart and thoroughly cleaned them and lubricated the sliders and put ceramic brake grease on the contact points but still seems to be the case.
Can't see any evidence of runout on the disc. No issues braking at all, no juddering or pulsing or vibrations etc, all lovely and smooth. Car drives great, no loss of speed or anything like that,
Could it be old and dry wheel bearings, possibly a stuck calliper? I have had the car sat cold for a few hours and still seems to have more resistance on the driver than the passenger.
Any ideas ? The only thing I noticed is the backing plate of the pads ( on the driver AND passenger ) had slightly come apart. Yet the only resistance appears to be on the driver, not the passenger.
Is it just me or does the pad wear look a bit wonky ?
Edited by MakaveliX on Saturday 22 June 21:13
InitialDave said:
Did one still spin more easily when you had the brakes apart?
That was what I was wondering. I didn't check this no, I suppose that's a good way to rule out the brakes isn't it.Should I hang the calliper and then spin the discs to see if there is any difference in resistance with the brakes off ?
InitialDave said:
If it's quick to do, it'd certainly help make sure it is brake related, which is the most likely case.
OK yeah I will give that a go when I get a chance. Let's be honest the car is 22 Years old so things like this are probably likely. It's really a project car but I do have pride in keeping it running well.Will also try properly cleaning the piston out too.
Thanks for the advice.
Will also see if I can feel more heat coming from the driver side tomorrow after a drive
Smint said:
Assume its a front wheel, have you exercised the pistons in their bores, leave a pad in and operate the brakes till the piston is out, push back in, rinse and repeat...choose whichever pad you want to remove to make levering the piston back easier.
After doing this a few times both sides you'll get the feeling if there's too much force needed both for pushing out (servo exhausted) and levering back in.
When the piston is extended you could peel back the rubber dust seal and judge the condition of the piston, also lubing piston with correct brake grease is permissable, i use a cotton bud for this.
Issue at rear? same method but also check the park brake isn't dragging.
Thanks for the useful info, yes it's the front driver which has more resistance than the front passenger.After doing this a few times both sides you'll get the feeling if there's too much force needed both for pushing out (servo exhausted) and levering back in.
When the piston is extended you could peel back the rubber dust seal and judge the condition of the piston, also lubing piston with correct brake grease is permissable, i use a cotton bud for this.
Issue at rear? same method but also check the park brake isn't dragging.
The inner pad on this car doesn't clip into the piston itself, it sits in the carrier. this style...
In regards to the first line of your reply, do you basically mean pump the brakes and keep pushing the piston back to ensure it is moving back and forth properly ? I usually work on my own so it would have to be doable myself.
In regards to brake grease, I could definitely try that. I do have ceramic brake grease which is specifically designed for the pads. I have silicone grease which from my understanding is the best stuff for anything rubber.
E-bmw said:
It is absolutely doable as a one man job.
Remove caliper, push pedal down, push piston back in, push pedal down, after doing it to all individually you will have a feel for how easy they are/aren't moving freely or not.
OK I get you, thanks ! Will give it a go when I get a chance.Remove caliper, push pedal down, push piston back in, push pedal down, after doing it to all individually you will have a feel for how easy they are/aren't moving freely or not.
Best to get a caliper rewind tool so as not to damage the piston seal right ?
Cool thanks for the useful advice ![smile](/inc/images/smile.gif)
Just jacked the car up trying to diagnose something else and both wheels now seem to be spinning evenly and freely.
I will still check the condition of the pistons etc just for good measure as the sticking may come back in future or may be intermittent.
When you say simple leverage do you mean like getting two pry bars and pushing the pistons back ?
I was always taught to use a windback tool
Here on autodoc, they definitely use a windback tool...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea4xxt9IuMo&t=...
![](https://forums-images.pistonheads.com/637449/202406247694753?resize=720)
Here is the caliper
![smile](/inc/images/smile.gif)
Just jacked the car up trying to diagnose something else and both wheels now seem to be spinning evenly and freely.
I will still check the condition of the pistons etc just for good measure as the sticking may come back in future or may be intermittent.
When you say simple leverage do you mean like getting two pry bars and pushing the pistons back ?
I was always taught to use a windback tool
Here on autodoc, they definitely use a windback tool...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea4xxt9IuMo&t=...
Here is the caliper
Edited by MakaveliX on Monday 24th June 21:22
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