Mk4 golf cigarette lighter circuit no power
Discussion
Electrical problem.....
I've got a 2001 130pd wagon, it has power seats (move not heat) fitted
They are wired into the cigarette lighter.
The fuse blew a while ago, replaced and it went again.
Currently (lol) I'm remaking the connections with proper connectors.
I have no power, fuse 41 the lighter one is fine anything else to check?
There are no relays related to this bit either
Ta Ray
I've got a 2001 130pd wagon, it has power seats (move not heat) fitted
They are wired into the cigarette lighter.
The fuse blew a while ago, replaced and it went again.
Currently (lol) I'm remaking the connections with proper connectors.
I have no power, fuse 41 the lighter one is fine anything else to check?
There are no relays related to this bit either
Ta Ray
ssray said:
The circuit what are items no 81 and 82 please
I'm thinking of running a wire from the battery to check the seats actually move, then possibly use another circuit or see if the fuse box has a spare bit and use that
The page you've taken a picture of will tell you what 81 and 82 are (this assumes you've taken the picture and it isn't one you've found online).I'm thinking of running a wire from the battery to check the seats actually move, then possibly use another circuit or see if the fuse box has a spare bit and use that
The best way to check a fuse is to use a test lamp and check for power at either side. How are you checking them?
Richard-D said:
The page you've taken a picture of will tell you what 81 and 82 are (this assumes you've taken the picture and it isn't one you've found online).
The best way to check a fuse is to use a test lamp and check for power at either side. How are you checking them?
I've used a multimeter, currently getting nothing at the fuse, The best way to check a fuse is to use a test lamp and check for power at either side. How are you checking them?
I'm thinking of running a wire from the battery to the seat connector to see if the seats actually work,up at 0220 today and 0230 tomorrow, so not doing it now
ssray said:
I'm going to have a look at the back of the fuse box tomorrow and the relays
81 is a 12v socket
82 is the cigarette lighter
82 is shown in the diagram as the socket with the cigarette lighter installed. Circle with the cross is the socket backlight that comes on with the lights and switch and the element are removable cigarette lighter part.81 is a 12v socket
82 is the cigarette lighter
As I said 81 is the boot.
Edited by cuprabob on Thursday 4th June 18:27
ssray said:
Electrical problem.....
I've got a 2001 130pd wagon, it has power seats (move not heat) fitted
They are wired into the cigarette lighter.
The fuse blew a while ago, replaced and it went again.
Currently (lol) I'm remaking the connections with proper connectors.
I have no power, fuse 41 the lighter one is fine anything else to check?
There are no relays related to this bit either
The light comes on on the lighter, when I switch the normal lights on
Based on this it sounds like the socket itself or the plug for the seats is goosed.I've got a 2001 130pd wagon, it has power seats (move not heat) fitted
They are wired into the cigarette lighter.
The fuse blew a while ago, replaced and it went again.
Currently (lol) I'm remaking the connections with proper connectors.
I have no power, fuse 41 the lighter one is fine anything else to check?
There are no relays related to this bit either
The light comes on on the lighter, when I switch the normal lights on
Having said that, who fitted the seats & was the wiring uprated to suit the addition of the seats?
I say this because 15amp fuses don't just blow for fun, they blow because the circuit is drawing more than its designed fault current. If you regularly over-rate this by drawing more than 15amp it WILL in the end fry the wiring and potentially cause MAJOR electrical issues at best.
You should really turn the job over to an auto-electrician to do the job correctly before any permanent damage (or worse) is done.
Any electrical motor WILL draw a magnitude more than "normal running current" at start-up, and powered seat motors can easily draw upwards of 30amp briefly with a person in the seat at start-up. If you do not size the wiring, fuse etc correctly you are heading down a route you REALLY don't want to.
E-bmw said:
Based on this it sounds like the socket itself or the plug for the seats is goosed.
Having said that, who fitted the seats & was the wiring uprated to suit the addition of the seats?
I say this because 15amp fuses don't just blow for fun, they blow because the circuit is drawing more than its designed fault current. If you regularly over-rate this by drawing more than 15amp it WILL in the end fry the wiring and potentially cause MAJOR electrical issues at best.
You should really turn the job over to an auto-electrician to do the job correctly before any permanent damage (or worse) is done.
Any electrical motor WILL draw a magnitude more than "normal running current" at start-up, and powered seat motors can easily draw upwards of 30amp briefly with a person in the seat at start-up. If you do not size the wiring, fuse etc correctly you are heading down a route you REALLY don't want to.
Fitted by the last owner, yesterday I went through every connection and remade it with better connectors Having said that, who fitted the seats & was the wiring uprated to suit the addition of the seats?
I say this because 15amp fuses don't just blow for fun, they blow because the circuit is drawing more than its designed fault current. If you regularly over-rate this by drawing more than 15amp it WILL in the end fry the wiring and potentially cause MAJOR electrical issues at best.
You should really turn the job over to an auto-electrician to do the job correctly before any permanent damage (or worse) is done.
Any electrical motor WILL draw a magnitude more than "normal running current" at start-up, and powered seat motors can easily draw upwards of 30amp briefly with a person in the seat at start-up. If you do not size the wiring, fuse etc correctly you are heading down a route you REALLY don't want to.
Today I'm running a wire from the battery to the seats to check it's not them, once they are proven working I'll use a relay to get power to them and wire a switch via the fuse box
Edited by ssray on Friday 5th June 08:55
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