Troubling issue with ignition/steering lock
Discussion
The issue is like where you have to swivel the wheel a bit to free the steering lock to allow you to turn the ignition however it is not that, it is much worse.
A couple of times lately I have found when I try and turn the ignition it won't even let me turn to 1 or 2 key positions and things are completely jammed somehow. I don't know how I free it but it has just happened. I just jiggle about like you would with the more well known steering lock issue while also jiggling the key.
I guess it had happened so momentarily, looking in hindsight, at other times I didn't notice it as an issue but lately it is locking for considerable intervals before I can free it. Thankfully last night it happened when I had already returned and was on my property, just hadn't driven down the drive. It took about 30 seconds to 1 minute though, the longest I have noticed so far as was concerned it may have busted totally.
It could be a real problem if it happened when out, although the nature of the issue at least you would expect to already be parked when it happened, but could leave one stranded if it decided to not 'let go' and have not found rhyme or reason to why it happens or how it has unstuck itself so far.
What can be going on here and how to solve it?
Mid 2000s, Ford Transit Connect van.
A couple of times lately I have found when I try and turn the ignition it won't even let me turn to 1 or 2 key positions and things are completely jammed somehow. I don't know how I free it but it has just happened. I just jiggle about like you would with the more well known steering lock issue while also jiggling the key.
I guess it had happened so momentarily, looking in hindsight, at other times I didn't notice it as an issue but lately it is locking for considerable intervals before I can free it. Thankfully last night it happened when I had already returned and was on my property, just hadn't driven down the drive. It took about 30 seconds to 1 minute though, the longest I have noticed so far as was concerned it may have busted totally.
It could be a real problem if it happened when out, although the nature of the issue at least you would expect to already be parked when it happened, but could leave one stranded if it decided to not 'let go' and have not found rhyme or reason to why it happens or how it has unstuck itself so far.
What can be going on here and how to solve it?
Mid 2000s, Ford Transit Connect van.
You would be wise to get it looked at before you get stuck.
Connects of that age have Tibbe locks & both the key & the cylinder disks are prone to wear, more so the key. Maybe try & get a fresh key cut to verify if key or cylinder. A plain / uncoded key will do for testing & any locksmith or Ford dealer worth their salt will be able to figure the key code with a quick look at the key.
Connects of that age have Tibbe locks & both the key & the cylinder disks are prone to wear, more so the key. Maybe try & get a fresh key cut to verify if key or cylinder. A plain / uncoded key will do for testing & any locksmith or Ford dealer worth their salt will be able to figure the key code with a quick look at the key.
Huzzah said:
Try some lock lube, proper stuff not oil or wd40, you need to kinda work it in keep turning the key.
Once done keep lube handy in case it sticks again.
Thanks,Once done keep lube handy in case it sticks again.
It seems that it might be something like this because I was fiddling around yesterday, where I was not under pressure, at my leisure, and noticed that the first time I tried it was again sticking quite considerably and this time I was able to tease it gently without any time constraints - last time it was night time and didn't want it at the top of the drive preferably - and then I felt it kind of jolt unstuck.
Then I tried several more times and it seemed much improved. So can it just be a case of greasing (or whatever the correct equivalent is) the components? This leads me to believe it probably isn't a key issue? as after that it was fine and I tried 5 or so more times and maybe did a slight stick once or twice then back to feeling normal on further attempts.
Novexx said:
You would be wise to get it looked at before you get stuck.
Connects of that age have Tibbe locks & both the key & the cylinder disks are prone to wear, more so the key. Maybe try & get a fresh key cut to verify if key or cylinder. A plain / uncoded key will do for testing & any locksmith or Ford dealer worth their salt will be able to figure the key code with a quick look at the key.
Can it not be DIYed? Well anything can I think with enough motivation but how hard? I have managed to change the alternator by myself already so any more difficult than that? The main difficulty on that was getting at it! particularly the belt.Connects of that age have Tibbe locks & both the key & the cylinder disks are prone to wear, more so the key. Maybe try & get a fresh key cut to verify if key or cylinder. A plain / uncoded key will do for testing & any locksmith or Ford dealer worth their salt will be able to figure the key code with a quick look at the key.
I have a Haynes manual, have yet to take a look at that. Seems the lock spray mentioned above would be a good shout to try.
Btw it is old but was said to be very little used. Only had a little under 60k on the clock, which I was told was very low for a diesel, and was told it was mostly kept in storage for most of that time.
Edited by old-van on Thursday 25th December 10:33
Edited by old-van on Thursday 25th December 10:37
old-van said:
Can it not be DIYed? Well anything can I think with enough motivation but how hard? I have managed to change the alternator by myself already so any more difficult than that? The main difficulty on that was getting at it! particularly the belt.
I have a Haynes manual, have yet to take a look at that. Seems the lock spray mentioned above would be a good shout to try.
Btw it is old but was said to be very little used. Only had a little under 60k on the clock, which I was told was very low for a diesel, and was told it was mostly kept in storage for most of that time.
Have a look on YT, then you will know what is involved. Ford are usually easy DIY.I have a Haynes manual, have yet to take a look at that. Seems the lock spray mentioned above would be a good shout to try.
Btw it is old but was said to be very little used. Only had a little under 60k on the clock, which I was told was very low for a diesel, and was told it was mostly kept in storage for most of that time.
Edited by old-van on Thursday 25th December 10:33
Edited by old-van on Thursday 25th December 10:37
https://www.youtube.com/results?sp=mAEB&search...
old-van said:
Can it not be DIYed?
Have you got a key cutter? Get a key cut at a dealer, a locksmith or Timpsons & then try it yourself.If that doesn't improve anything, throw a new ignition cylinder at it. A new cylinder, unless built to order / matched by a specialist will not have the same key & the cylinder is possibly fitted with security bolts that will require drilled out.
Don't know if they are still a thing, but you used to be able to get Tibbe lock repair kits from Ford, allowing you to build cylinders up to match keys, but they are pretty finikey & a pain in the arse.
Novexx said:
Don't know if they are still a thing, but you used to be able to get Tibbe lock repair kits from Ford, allowing you to build cylinders up to match keys, but they are pretty finikey & a pain in the arse.
I remember spending ages trying to get a new barrel working with a lock repair kit. Never did get it to work. Just left the barrel out, used a stubby screwdriver to rotate the barrel, but you still need the the electronics in the key next to the lock to release the engine imobilzer, so barely any loss of securityI know it's not a solution for the OP, but this (and one other thing) used to be/perhaps still is a regular problem with lock barrels on commercial vehicles.
If the keyring contains too many keys (typical builder/tradesman), the weight of the keys eventually causes wear on the barrel and the pins to the point where it malfunctions. Replacement is usually needed.
The second problem is where two keys with immobiliser chips are on the same keyring. Sometimes the receiver 'sees' the wrong chip and the car/van won't start.
This answer is brought to you courtesy of a mate of mine who is an auto-electrician and has seen it all!
If the keyring contains too many keys (typical builder/tradesman), the weight of the keys eventually causes wear on the barrel and the pins to the point where it malfunctions. Replacement is usually needed.
The second problem is where two keys with immobiliser chips are on the same keyring. Sometimes the receiver 'sees' the wrong chip and the car/van won't start.
This answer is brought to you courtesy of a mate of mine who is an auto-electrician and has seen it all!
TwinKam said:
E-bmw said:
One thing I might have missed, but can't see you mention.
Is the steering lock actually on when this happens?
See OP's first para...Is the steering lock actually on when this happens?
He says "The issue is like where you have to swivel the wheel a bit to free the steering lock" but not whether it is on.
E-bmw said:
TwinKam said:
E-bmw said:
One thing I might have missed, but can't see you mention.
Is the steering lock actually on when this happens?
See OP's first para...Is the steering lock actually on when this happens?
He says "The issue is like where you have to swivel the wheel a bit to free the steering lock" but not whether it is on.
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