Probably a dumb battery question...

[1Steve68]

I've never left a car standing for as long as my current one and due to certain issues it seems the best option for me is to have a new battery fitted instead of jump starting this dead one and then going for a long drive with a recently expired MOT.

So the dumb question is, do new batteries come full charged or not? If they've never been used before and just sat on a shelf somewhere being stored in a shop or warehouse wouldn't the new battery be flat too when it arrived???

[CanAm]

They come fully charged, or near enough. I've had quite a few batteries over the last 50 years, and have never had a problem with a new one.

[1Steve68]

CanAm said:

They come fully charged, or near enough. I've had quite a few batteries over the last 50 years, and have never had a problem with a new one.

Perhaps you can explain this? My car was brand new when I bought (only 50 delivery miles on the clock) and I only drove it 1000 miles in the first 18 months before declaring it SORN. How can a battery stored on a shelf for god knows how long be almost fully charged but the battery in my new car lost all its charge within 12 months of being parked up/not used???

[eltax91]

1Steve68 said:

CanAm said:

They come fully charged, or near enough. I've had quite a few batteries over the last 50 years, and have never had a problem with a new one.

Perhaps you can explain this? My car was brand new when I bought (only 50 delivery miles on the clock) and I only drove it 1000 miles in the first 18 months before declaring it SORN. How can a battery stored on a shelf for god knows how long be almost fully charged but the battery in my new car lost all its charge within 12 months of being parked up/not used???

the one on the shelf has nothing attached to it. The one on your car....

[SS2.]

1Steve68 said:

How can a battery stored on a shelf for god knows how long be almost fully charged but the battery in my new car lost all its charge within 12 months of being parked up/not used???

After each start of the engine, how long typically did you spend driving ?

[1Steve68]

CanAm said:

They come fully charged, or near enough. I've had quite a few batteries over the last 50 years, and have never had a problem with a new one.

Perhaps you can explain this? My car was brand new when I bought (only 50 delivery miles on the clock) and I only drove it 1000 miles in the first 18 months before declaring it SORN. How can a battery stored on a shelf for god knows how long be almost fully charged but the battery in my new car lost all its charge within 12 months of being parked up/not used???

[1Steve68]

SS2. said:

After each start of the engine, how long typically did you spend driving ?

Probably about a 10 mile round trip to Asda and back home once a week. Never had a problem starting it using it like that.

[pinchmeimdreamin]

1Steve68 said:

CanAm said:

They come fully charged, or near enough. I've had quite a few batteries over the last 50 years, and have never had a problem with a new one.

Perhaps you can explain this? My car was brand new when I bought (only 50 delivery miles on the clock) and I only drove it 1000 miles in the first 18 months before declaring it SORN. How can a battery stored on a shelf for god knows how long be almost fully charged but the battery in my new car lost all its charge within 12 months of being parked up/not used???

12 months parked up isn't the same as not used, the car will constantly be drawing from the battery as long as it is fitted to the car.

The one on the shelf is just sat there holding its charge.

[Super Sonic]

Would recommend shopping around, try your local motor factors, Halfords are expensive for car batteries.

[GeniusOfLove]

Super Sonic said:

Would recommend shopping around, try your local motor factors, Halfords are expensive for car batteries.

With a trade card, which they'll give to anyone, they're the cheapest around. Usually the same or less than Tayna but without the shipping costs.

Depending how old the OPs battery is and how many times it's been totally flattened it may well be fine. Just keep a booster in the boot.

[1Steve68]

Thanks chaps.
Well before I pay for someone to come and fit a new battery I'm going to try starting the car using a portable jump starter I bought last week first. I've spent all day watching google vids and think I know how to do it so hopefully I don't injure myself or do some damage to the car.

Can someone just confirm that this is the correct procedure?

1) Insert power cable into the jump starter.
2) Attach red cable/clamp + to (positive) terminal on battery.
3) Then attach black cable/clamp - to (negative) terminal on battery.
4) Switch on jump starter.
5) Put key in ignition and try starting car.

If the car starts I should reverse the procedure for removal of the cables/clamps.
6) Switch off jump starter and disconnect power cable.
7) Remove black cable/clamp from battery first.
8) Remove red cable/clamp second.

Is that correct???

[eltax91]

1Steve68 said:

Thanks chaps.
Well before I pay for someone to come and fit a new battery I'm going to try starting the car using a portable jump starter I bought last week first. I've spent all day watching google vids and think I know how to do it so hopefully I don't injure myself or do some damage to the car.

Can someone just confirm that this is the correct procedure?

1) Insert power cable into the jump starter.
2) Attach red cable/clamp + to (positive) terminal on battery.
3) Then attach black cable/clamp - to (negative) terminal on battery.
4) Switch on jump starter.
5) Put key in ignition and try starting car.

If the car starts I should reverse the procedure for removal of the cables/clamps.
6) Switch off jump starter and disconnect power cable.
7) Remove black cable/clamp from battery first.
8) Remove red cable/clamp second.

Is that correct???

Sounds just fine

[brillomaster]

Personally, I think the battery will be knackered... it'll start off the jump pack and then run on the alternator, but I'd be surprised if the battery will hold a charge after being flat for so long.

But by all means give it a try...

[swisstoni]

The first drive with the revived battery should be of a decent length end up back at home. Then if the car doesn't restart you aren't in an Asda car park or somewhere similarly inconvenient.

Batteries are relatively cheap; if there is any doubt at all about the original I'd change it.

Edited by swisstoni on Tuesday 28th October 19:16

[paintman]

If you're going to do anything with the old battery you need to fully charge it with a battery charger.
https://www.optimabatteries.com/experience/blog/fa... (ignore the redtop,bluetop etc advertising bit)

[J__Wood]

1Steve68 said:

Perhaps you can explain this? My car was brand new when I bought (only 50 delivery miles on the clock) and I only drove it 1000 miles in the first 18 months before declaring it SORN. How can a battery stored on a shelf for god knows how long be almost fully charged but the battery in my new car lost all its charge within 12 months of being parked up/not used???

I think the new batteries are produced and stored (for months) are dry, your battery dealer then fills it up with sulphuric acid before selling it? Well they did back in the 80s when I spent many a happy day filling up new batteries. Hence, more recently, people having issues being sent 'dry' batteries. Not so sure about AGM, I guess the same.

During discharge, the lead plates react with the sulphuric acid electrolyte to form lead sulfate crystals.
If the battery is not fully recharged, the small crystals remain on the plates.
If left in this state for extended periods, the crystals recrystallise into larger, harder formations that block the active material of the plates. Less 'clean' active material equals fewer cranking amps. Very rarely truly fixable more likely to just get worse.

Lead acid batteries mostly enjoy and nice discharge (say one amp) and charge cycle, they hate just sitting, slowly self discharging.

[CraigyMc]

eltax91 said:

1Steve68 said:

Thanks chaps.
Well before I pay for someone to come and fit a new battery I'm going to try starting the car using a portable jump starter I bought last week first. I've spent all day watching google vids and think I know how to do it so hopefully I don't injure myself or do some damage to the car.

Can someone just confirm that this is the correct procedure?

1) Insert power cable into the jump starter.
2) Attach red cable/clamp + to (positive) terminal on battery.
3) Then attach black cable/clamp - to (negative) terminal on battery.
4) Switch on jump starter.
5) Put key in ignition and try starting car.

If the car starts I should reverse the procedure for removal of the cables/clamps.
6) Switch off jump starter and disconnect power cable.
7) Remove black cable/clamp from battery first.
8) Remove red cable/clamp second.

Is that correct???

Sounds just fine

Depends on the car.

Plenty of manufacturers have jump starting points separate from the battery terminals (eg BMW) so the battery management system has a clue what's going on. A car like that, you do not attach leads to the battery at all.

[1Steve68]

swisstoni said:

The first drive with the revived battery should be of a decent length end up back at home. Then if the car doesn't restart you aren't in an Asda car park or somewhere similarly inconvenient.

Batteries are relatively cheap; if there is any doubt at all about the original I'd change it.

Edited by swisstoni on Tuesday 28th October 19:16

The first drive if I can get it going will be to my local MOT centre about 2 miles away but after that I'll take the car on a proper blast up the motorway for about a 50 mile round trip. It's unlikely to fail the MOT as it's only just over 3 years old, low mileage, and still in almost mint/new condition, so hopefully I can take up the motorway as soon as the MOT is done. I'll drive it once a week/fortnight after and if the motorway blast hasn't put a good charge in the battery I'll have to get a new one fitted.

[sherman]

A battery on a shop shelf could well have been there for many years especially if your battery is an odd size.
Batteries do deteriorate over time when they are just sat there. If your boost pack is inteligent enough it should give you a voltage check before you jump the car.

If the battery is even 11.5 volts your cars ECU probably wont let it start.
Less than 10 volts and it wont even be worth trying to recharge.
If your boost pack doesnt start the car but the boost pack says the battery is good I would find a neighbour with a 2 litre plus engined car and use proper jump leads to give it a jump.
Get them to rev it up to 3000rpm or there abouts and hold it constant for 10 seconds before you try to start your car.

Edited by sherman on Tuesday 28th October 21:21

[Mr-B]

1Steve68 said:

The first drive if I can get it going will be to my local MOT centre about 2 miles away but after that I'll take the car on a proper blast up the motorway for about a 50 mile round trip. It's unlikely to fail the MOT as it's only just over 3 years old, low mileage, and still in almost mint/new condition, so hopefully I can take up the motorway as soon as the MOT is done. I'll drive it once a week/fortnight after and if the motorway blast hasn't put a good charge in the battery I'll have to get a new one fitted.

I would do that the other way round, get it going 15 minute drive up the mway, turn round come back straight to MOT, everything is properly warmed up too and battery should be replenished over 30 minutes. 2 mile drives are not good for any ICE car no matter how good the battery.