Mini R56/R58/R59 Cooling Fan Problem. Think I am going mad..
Discussion
This started out as an air conditioning problem, it didn't work.
I took it to Kwik Fit for a free check and they confirmed it had no leaks, vac'd it out and regassed it. But it still didn't work... so they didn't charge me!
They said the reason it doesn't work, is the cooling fan does not come on with the A/C when the car is stationary.
Some test's has confirmed that the cooling fan in isolation works, on both speeds. But, when I feed 12V into the control wire terminal of the relay socket for fan speed 1 it does not. Fan speed 2 does work with the same test.
This suggests a broken wire somewhere.
A continuity check between the fan end of the wire and the fuse box confirms the wire is fine, but a continuity check between the bottom of the fuse box to the top of the fuse box, produces nothing. Nada, nicht, nothing.
How can that be? Unless the fuse box is knackered, but how can a fuse box fail?

I took it to Kwik Fit for a free check and they confirmed it had no leaks, vac'd it out and regassed it. But it still didn't work... so they didn't charge me!
They said the reason it doesn't work, is the cooling fan does not come on with the A/C when the car is stationary.
Some test's has confirmed that the cooling fan in isolation works, on both speeds. But, when I feed 12V into the control wire terminal of the relay socket for fan speed 1 it does not. Fan speed 2 does work with the same test.
This suggests a broken wire somewhere.
A continuity check between the fan end of the wire and the fuse box confirms the wire is fine, but a continuity check between the bottom of the fuse box to the top of the fuse box, produces nothing. Nada, nicht, nothing.
How can that be? Unless the fuse box is knackered, but how can a fuse box fail?

Edited by Megaflow on Saturday 28th June 17:41
Megaflow said:
a continuity check between the bottom of the fuse box to the top of the fuse box, produces nothing. Nada, nicht, nothing.
I can't quite picture what you're testing there. Are you saying the wire isn't connected to the corresponding fuse holder? Have you proved that you're testing at the correct fuse holder?GreenV8S said:
I can't quite picture what you're testing there. Are you saying the wire isn't connected to the corresponding fuse holder? Have you proved that you're testing at the correct fuse holder?
Yes the wire is not connected to the corresponding socket, it is a relay in question not a socket. Yes, it the correct relay.Interestingly there is a lot of videos about Mini fuse box repairs, most seem to be about interior fuse boxes, but have fuse boxes moved in from being inanimate objects?
Edited by Megaflow on Sunday 29th June 08:23
Megaflow said:
Yes the wire is not connected to the corresponding socket, it is a relay in question not a socket. Yes, it the correct relay.
That sounds like an internal fault in the fuse/relay box. I suppose you could remove and inspect it to see what the problem is. That seems potentially a lot of work. No idea how valuable or precious the car is, but you also have the option of bodging it by adding a separate relay. No idea what your last sentence was trying to say.
I might be misunderstanding the problem but a dodgy fan resistor is a common problem, ie. it only works at certain speeds etc
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/nrf/17882286?utm_medium=...
ETA: yep, think i misunderstood, cooling fan not heater/aircon fan
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/nrf/17882286?utm_medium=...
ETA: yep, think i misunderstood, cooling fan not heater/aircon fan
21TonyK said:
I might be misunderstanding the problem but a dodgy fan resistor is a common problem, ie. it only works at certain speeds etc
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/nrf/17882286?utm_medium=...
ETA: yep, think i misunderstood, cooling fan not heater/aircon fan
This was going to be my suggestion too. Worth a look in case a wiring diagram has been misunderstood. The Aircon fan is also an engine coolant fan on most cars so not a reason to discount it.https://www.autodoc.co.uk/nrf/17882286?utm_medium=...
ETA: yep, think i misunderstood, cooling fan not heater/aircon fan
GreenV8S said:
Megaflow said:
Yes the wire is not connected to the corresponding socket, it is a relay in question not a socket. Yes, it the correct relay.
That sounds like an internal fault in the fuse/relay box. I suppose you could remove and inspect it to see what the problem is. That seems potentially a lot of work. No idea how valuable or precious the car is, but you also have the option of bodging it by adding a separate relay. No idea what your last sentence was trying to say.
Apologies all, I typed a response to this Saturday, but it doesn't seem to have posted.
This is the wiring diagram for the fuse box/cooling fan:
The cooling fan and resistor have been tested in isolation and function correctly.
When I feed 12V into terminal 87 for relay R10 2, the cooling fan runs. When I do the same test for terminal 87 for relay R10 1 it does not work.
That would suggest a wiring problem between terminal 87 of R10 1 to the cooling fan. But when I disconnect the plug that contains the wire from the fan to R10 1, I have continuity, which suggest the problem is internal to the fuse box.
Very confusing.
Your wiring diagram shows a component between where you have fed the +12v (R10 1 pin 87) and the motor (possibly internal in M10 1) - this is not present in the other path you have tested (R10 2 pin 87).
Any idea what this might be - it could be the cause of the failure.
Is there continuity (or a resistance) between M10 1 pins 4 and 2?
Any idea what this might be - it could be the cause of the failure.
Is there continuity (or a resistance) between M10 1 pins 4 and 2?
jeremyc said:
Your wiring diagram shows a component between where you have fed the +12v (R10 1 pin 87) and the motor (possibly internal in M10 1) - this is not present in the other path you have tested (R10 2 pin 87).
Any idea what this might be - it could be the cause of the failure.
Is there continuity (or a resistance) between M10 1 pins 4 and 2?
It is not very clear, but I believe the component you are talking about is the resistor to create the second fan speed, that is mounted to the cooling fan, little green cylinder on the image below. When I test the cooling fan in isolation it was at the cooling fan connector, so included this resistor, and it worked as it should.Any idea what this might be - it could be the cause of the failure.
Is there continuity (or a resistance) between M10 1 pins 4 and 2?
I haven't check continuity between pins 4 & 2, I'm not sure what that would tell me. The cooling fan works when powered directly at pins 4 & 2. If there was an internal short of the cooling fan, then surely it would fail that test?
Megaflow said:
I haven't check continuity between pins 4 & 2, I'm not sure what that would tell me. The cooling fan works when powered directly at pins 4 & 2. If there was an internal short of the cooling fan, then surely it would fail that test?
Did the fan run at different speeds when directly powered at pins 4 & 2?Also, did you remove the relay when applying +12v at R10 1 pin 87? I'm wondering if there could be an internal fault in that relay that is providing a lower resistance path to ground.
jeremyc said:
Megaflow said:
I haven't check continuity between pins 4 & 2, I'm not sure what that would tell me. The cooling fan works when powered directly at pins 4 & 2. If there was an internal short of the cooling fan, then surely it would fail that test?
Did the fan run at different speeds when directly powered at pins 4 & 2?jeremyc said:
Also, did you remove the relay when applying +12v at R10 1 pin 87? I'm wondering if there could be an internal fault in that relay that is providing a lower resistance path to ground.
Yes, the relay was removed when I fed the power into R10 1 pin 87.It would appear I can buy a second hand fuse box for £15-20, so my current plan is to find the right part number fuse box, repeat the same test as the current fuse box and potentially to use it as a sacrificial lamb to work out how they can be taken apart, so I can then try and figure out what is wrong with the current one. Or, if it passes the test the current one fails, I might just bang it in.
Update: I have found the part number of the fuse box and bought another fuse box of the same part number for a whole twenty of your finest pounds.
That’s cheap enough just to check I am not going mad and metering out correctly, it also gives me another to compare with.
Watch this space.
That’s cheap enough just to check I am not going mad and metering out correctly, it also gives me another to compare with.
Watch this space.
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