How to remove a broken off wheel bolt?

[v9]

I’ve just had a tyre replaced and the fitter has snapped one of the bolts when replacing the wheel.
The broken part is about 10mm deep in the hub.
Ideas on how best to remove it? I’m thinking something like this: https://amzn.eu/d/3JCCfsZ
Any recommendations for one not made of Chinesium? Any better ideas?

[GreenV8S]

If you're reasonably confident about doing it yourself, a left handed drill will probably bring it out now that it's unloaded. You do need to be certain that your drill is centered and aligned with the original thread. The state of the broken-off thread will determine how easy that is. If it doesn't wind out during drilling, keep going up in size until it comes loose or you start seeing the tips of the thread. At that point you can take the remains out with a pick.

If you aren't confident about your skills with a drill, take it to a local garage. They will either take the bolt out for you, or remove the hub and take it to a machine shop for them to remove it.

[donkmeister]

Does the bolt remnant extend beyond the back of the hub? Might make more sense to try and grab the back of it with mole grips and turn it so it carries on through the hub and pops out the back.

Check there is clearance first!

[E-bmw]

^^

Either of these will work depending on what clearance/access there is etc.

ETA.

You say the bolt is 10mm inside the hub, surely it is flush with the hub but the 10mm you quote is the disc thickness.

Perhaps remove the disc and see if that gives you better access to the remainder of the bolt.

Re. Your next post, the bolt won't have damaged the thread inside the hub.

Edited by E-bmw on Wednesday 28th May 08:40

[v9]

GreenV8S said:

If you're reasonably confident about doing it yourself, a left handed drill will probably bring it out now that it's unloaded. You do need to be certain that your drill is centered and aligned with the original thread. The state of the broken-off thread will determine how easy that is. If it doesn't wind out during drilling, keep going up in size until it comes loose or you start seeing the tips of the thread. At that point you can take the remains out with a pick.

If you aren't confident about your skills with a drill, take it to a local garage. They will either take the bolt out for you, or remove the hub and take it to a machine shop for them to remove it.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I’m reasonably confident using a drill, but it’s going to be tricky to get a start centred as it’s not a particularly clean break. If I can get a small Pilot hole I think it’ll come out. What worries me if the thread has been damaged by the rest of the bolt, I suspect the fitter may have spun the head and remnants of bolt in the thread which may have damaged it.
I’m tempted to make it their problem to solve. They did say they’d take a look on Friday, but I’m not 100% confident in their abilities! I think they may just remove the hub and give it to someone else to sort.

[E-bmw]

OP.

See edited post above.

[v9]

donkmeister said:

Does the bolt remnant extend beyond the back of the hub? Might make more sense to try and grab the back of it with mole grips and turn it so it carries on through the hub and pops out the back.

Check there is clearance first!

Good point, haven’t had chance to have a look yet, I stopped off to get the tyre replaced on a long trip last night, and am in meetings all day today and tomorrow, then another long trip home tomorrow night.
I suspect there may be clearance/access issues without significant disassembly but will take a look when I get home. Let’s hope the wheel stays put with 4/5 bolts in place!

[muppets_mate]

v9 said:

GreenV8S said:

If you're reasonably confident about doing it yourself, a left handed drill will probably bring it out now that it's unloaded. You do need to be certain that your drill is centered and aligned with the original thread. The state of the broken-off thread will determine how easy that is. If it doesn't wind out during drilling, keep going up in size until it comes loose or you start seeing the tips of the thread. At that point you can take the remains out with a pick.

If you aren't confident about your skills with a drill, take it to a local garage. They will either take the bolt out for you, or remove the hub and take it to a machine shop for them to remove it.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I m reasonably confident using a drill, but it s going to be tricky to get a start centred as it s not a particularly clean break. If I can get a small Pilot hole I think it ll come out. What worries me if the thread has been damaged by the rest of the bolt, I suspect the fitter may have spun the head and remnants of bolt in the thread which may have damaged it.
I m tempted to make it their problem to solve. They did say they d take a look on Friday, but I m not 100% confident in their abilities! I think they may just remove the hub and give it to someone else to sort.

Agreed, that would be my view. It seems they created the problem, it is their responsibility to resolve.

[catso]

If there's anything above the surface, weld a nut to it, if it's down below then weld to the bolt down through a non-weldable tube, like this;



Not only will you have something to turn the bolt with but the extreme heat should help free it.

[Shedding]

Dependent on the car, it might be easier to replace the hub.

[eltax91]

catso said:

If there's anything above the surface, weld a nut to it, if it's down below then weld to the bolt down through a non-weldable tube, like this;



Not only will you have something to turn the bolt with but the extreme heat should help free it.

Clever!

[v9]

Just a quick update: drilled and removed with a stud extractor. Was bloody difficult to shift though. Was beginning to think it’d been cross threaded.

[TriumphStag3.0V8]

v9 said:

Just a quick update: drilled and removed with a stud extractor. Was bloody difficult to shift though. Was beginning to think it d been cross threaded.

Good result.

Personally I would have made it the tyre fitters problem as they broke it - but there is a lot of satisfaction in fixing it yourself.

[v9]

TriumphStag3.0V8 said:

Good result.

Personally I would have made it the tyre fitters problem as they broke it - but there is a lot of satisfaction in fixing it yourself.

Yep, that was plan B. I’m not a very trusting soul though, and they didn’t seem (how do I put this kindly) like the sharpest tools in the box, so I was worried that they may do more damage, which may not immediately be easy to spot. I’ve had many poor experiences with mechanics over the years so am quite selective these days who I let loose on my vehicles.

[TwinKam]

There are some who say that you should never lubricate a wheel bolt/stud, and while it's true that it shouldn't be slathered with grease or dripping with oil, it certainly shouldn't be left rusty and crusty either. A good wire-brushing back to bright metal, and a light misting of 'maintenance spray', wiped back with tissue, will prevent them from seizing in future. The breaking-off, however, was undoubtedly caused by overtightening.

[v9]

TwinKam said:

There are some who say that you should never lubricate a wheel bolt/stud, and while it's true that it shouldn't be slathered with grease or dripping with oil, it certainly shouldn't be left rusty and crusty either. A good wire-brushing back to bright metal, and a light misting of 'maintenance spray', wiped back with tissue, will prevent them from seizing in future. The breaking-off, however, was undoubtedly caused by overtightening.

Yep, I always keep them clean but don’t use grease. Corrosion wasn’t the problem, in fact the wheels had been off a couple of weeks ago and the bolts were fine. I think the problem was a slight distortion and some sharp edges where the shaft of the bolt sheared when it was over-tightened.

[paul_c123]

TwinKam said:

There are some who say that you should never lubricate a wheel bolt/stud, and while it's true that it shouldn't be slathered with grease or dripping with oil, it certainly shouldn't be left rusty and crusty either. A good wire-brushing back to bright metal, and a light misting of 'maintenance spray', wiped back with tissue, will prevent them from seizing in future. The breaking-off, however, was undoubtedly caused by overtightening.

The reason "they" say they shouldn't be lubricated, is because doing so massively reduces the torque required vs clamping pressure applied, so much so that its easy to break them while applying at/below the specified torque. So long as you dry them thoroughly after the cleaning process, all should be okay. I agree they ought to be clean on install though, including the seated area on both bolt/nut and the wheel.

[kestral]

v9 said:

Just a quick update: drilled and removed with a stud extractor. Was bloody difficult to shift though. Was beginning to think it d been cross threaded.

Why didn't the fitter that snapped the bolt do all that?

[donkmeister]

TwinKam said:

There are some who say that you should never lubricate a wheel bolt/stud, and while it's true that it shouldn't be slathered with grease or dripping with oil, it certainly shouldn't be left rusty and crusty either. A good wire-brushing back to bright metal, and a light misting of 'maintenance spray', wiped back with tissue, will prevent them from seizing in future. The breaking-off, however, was undoubtedly caused by overtightening.

As an aside, when I'm cleaning up fasteners, if the head fits in I put it in a drill chuck and spin it moderately with the drill whilst runnning a wire brush along the threads. Then a quick wash with brake-cleaner to remove any residue. Works very well.

Even better with drift pins (e.g. from opposed-piston brake calipers) and a very mild scotchbrite pad.

[darreni]

donkmeister said:

As an aside, when I'm cleaning up fasteners, if the head fits in I put it in a drill chuck and spin it moderately with the drill whilst runnning a wire brush along the threads. Then a quick wash with brake-cleaner to remove any residue. Works very well.

Even better with drift pins (e.g. from opposed-piston brake calipers) and a very mild scotchbrite pad.

I have this set:https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lang-Tools-2584-15-Piece-Restorer/dp/B000XJ48V0/ref=sr_1_6?adgrpid=1175379677248003&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Ua0JZX-gWyB8qKlPOhs4iAKexv8Yc3j8FDwf7cWtIBeEQSgnvar3bH9fAZAYGOnTG8on9jKExm3JNrfKA3gLhp8gSOodh8_uwuQ8xZzx43YHgGPHdSMyoARWaUu6rsi-0YXpQDrpLQJI9n5DlylseUCA8OmcqcTl6mjN1FYMjoVfw42RXxuVKTQgSIytE7Dyc1wH2i0tX3w_WIad4SEJnwQXtZ8xNj20sJR17l_R9VuBwLETcVTD-K18A0q2U7sYEsru3bpk59v1GlLs4ia2s6wwF5xy7yg3bo-VOSKNKEs.OjZiM6Ysz7X2M1iQDDcT_Q6mZY2CXmnn6TB3P8AP3AQ&dib_tag=se&hvadid=73461429851719&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=41680&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-73461510259353%3Aloc-188&hydadcr=11830_2383730&keywords=lang+thread+chaser&mcid=571bc7ffbba63838ada5c7d85cfe160a&qid=1750256312&sr=8-6

worth 10x the price