Octavia Mk1 1.9 TDI | First ever clutch swap
Discussion
Update 20/01/2025 1900 The MOT failed with several things wrong.
Unless anyone thinks these faults can be rectified at home with little mechanical experience, and a few extra tools, I think I'll be getting another old car, and looking after it until a better one can be afforded.
The Octavia needs a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel, and gearbox (possibly 02J) or gearbox parts.
I don't think the full clutch kit and gearbox together cost what a new MOT-passed running s
tbox costs nowadays, but my garage recommended that it's an economically unviable car, even if all labour costs were deducted and I had mates to swap out the parts with me. They said buying a used gearbox is unreliable.
But some people online have continued to tell me it's within reach of someone new to mechanics to save this car.
If it can be made stable and working to another 6 months for under £700, I'd be tempted, but I think that's unrealistic. It's happened before I would be equipped to keep a project car.
On top of that, here are the MOT results:
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake disc significantly and obviously worn (1.1.14 (a) (i))
Front Service brake excessively fluctuating both sides (1.2.1 (e))
Nearside Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
Nearside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Rear Axle swivel pins and bushes swivel pin and/or bush slightly worn (5.1.2 (b) (i))
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Update 20/01/2025 The gearbox needs replacing too.
Would that complicate the process, even though we'd be taking the current gearbox off to swap the clutch anyway?
Original:
I'm feeling brave and would like to replace the clutch kit on my Škoda Octavia Mk1 1.9 TDI, possibly with something more durable than OEM for a later remap.
Following ChrisFix's ' How to Replace a Clutch in your Car or Truck (Full DIY Guide)', and a clutch-swap video on the same car, I'm only a few extra tools away from being able to perform it at home
Using four jack-stands, the scissor-lift tray thing, a flame torch for exhaust bolts, a clutch bearing removal tool, torque wrench, socket kit, and the necessary fluids and pastes, I'd like to get it done in 2 days.
There are two options I think might be reasonable for a stbox:
Option 1: £219.00 Normal looking clutch kit
Option 2: £291.10 A clutch for lightly remapped cars. Will it just fit and mount as normal? - "Concentric Slave Cylinders are not included."
I'm new to working on cars, but it would save a lot of money to replace the clutch at home, however much effort. I may not be able to afford work on it, nor a new car right now. I'm highly motivated to learn whatever else I need to do, because the car will be kaput if no action is taken.
Part of the detailed plan that's coming together is yet to include how the hydraulic clutch pedal can be disconnected and reconnected.
The job is being broken down into stages, which I think will begin with removing the exhaust, possibly breaking bolts, and at the very depth of disassembly will be a new rear main seal. Here's a list of things I need, and it will probably keep growing.
During the planning stages I'd like to know about potential snags that could happen, like the exhaust bolts not coming away no matter how much fire is applied, or something else in the transmission requiring a part and more research. I'd like to know how to prepare for things that could go wrong, or how best to avoid things going wrong.
tl;dr Any advice for the first time changing a clutch? - Any help is much appreciated!
I've got schematics on the car, like how to disassemble the exhaust, but are seeking more details about the clutch
Unless anyone thinks these faults can be rectified at home with little mechanical experience, and a few extra tools, I think I'll be getting another old car, and looking after it until a better one can be afforded.
The Octavia needs a new clutch, dual-mass flywheel, and gearbox (possibly 02J) or gearbox parts.
I don't think the full clutch kit and gearbox together cost what a new MOT-passed running s
tbox costs nowadays, but my garage recommended that it's an economically unviable car, even if all labour costs were deducted and I had mates to swap out the parts with me. They said buying a used gearbox is unreliable.But some people online have continued to tell me it's within reach of someone new to mechanics to save this car.
If it can be made stable and working to another 6 months for under £700, I'd be tempted, but I think that's unrealistic. It's happened before I would be equipped to keep a project car.
On top of that, here are the MOT results:
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake disc significantly and obviously worn (1.1.14 (a) (i))
Front Service brake excessively fluctuating both sides (1.2.1 (e))
Nearside Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
Nearside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Rear Axle swivel pins and bushes swivel pin and/or bush slightly worn (5.1.2 (b) (i))
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Update 20/01/2025 The gearbox needs replacing too.
Would that complicate the process, even though we'd be taking the current gearbox off to swap the clutch anyway?
Original:
I'm feeling brave and would like to replace the clutch kit on my Škoda Octavia Mk1 1.9 TDI, possibly with something more durable than OEM for a later remap.
Following ChrisFix's ' How to Replace a Clutch in your Car or Truck (Full DIY Guide)', and a clutch-swap video on the same car, I'm only a few extra tools away from being able to perform it at home
Using four jack-stands, the scissor-lift tray thing, a flame torch for exhaust bolts, a clutch bearing removal tool, torque wrench, socket kit, and the necessary fluids and pastes, I'd like to get it done in 2 days.
There are two options I think might be reasonable for a s
tbox:Option 1: £219.00 Normal looking clutch kit
Option 2: £291.10 A clutch for lightly remapped cars. Will it just fit and mount as normal? - "Concentric Slave Cylinders are not included."
I'm new to working on cars, but it would save a lot of money to replace the clutch at home, however much effort. I may not be able to afford work on it, nor a new car right now. I'm highly motivated to learn whatever else I need to do, because the car will be kaput if no action is taken.
Part of the detailed plan that's coming together is yet to include how the hydraulic clutch pedal can be disconnected and reconnected.
The job is being broken down into stages, which I think will begin with removing the exhaust, possibly breaking bolts, and at the very depth of disassembly will be a new rear main seal. Here's a list of things I need, and it will probably keep growing.
During the planning stages I'd like to know about potential snags that could happen, like the exhaust bolts not coming away no matter how much fire is applied, or something else in the transmission requiring a part and more research. I'd like to know how to prepare for things that could go wrong, or how best to avoid things going wrong.
tl;dr Any advice for the first time changing a clutch? - Any help is much appreciated!
I've got schematics on the car, like how to disassemble the exhaust, but are seeking more details about the clutch
Edited by Conal on Saturday 18th January 12:28
Edited by Conal on Monday 20th January 10:45
Edited by Conal on Monday 20th January 19:20
Does the Octavia do the common VAG thing where you can unbolt the front panel entirely for access to the engine bay? It makes life much easier.
Have done a clutch on an Audi A3 with the same engine, it was pretty straightforward, but was changing the engine at the time so it was part of a larger job and was already dismantling a fair bit.
Have done a clutch on an Audi A3 with the same engine, it was pretty straightforward, but was changing the engine at the time so it was part of a larger job and was already dismantling a fair bit.
I've not done a clutch change on that car I'm afraid. But I have done a fair few in my time and one thing I will say is that it is a deeply unpleasant job and a pretty difficult one to boot (especially with a large/heavy gearbox without a proper vehicle lift to work under).
Sorry I can't give you any specific advice but my recommendations are:
- don't underestimate how heavy the gearbox will be and how awkward it will be to manoeuvre on/off the engine. Not too bad coming off but usually a pig to get back on, especially without a transmission jack and with the car on axle stands.
- make absolutely sure the car is safe on its stands and get it as high as you can safely. Bear in mind you will need to elevate the transmission back into position so will need to be high enough to accommodate the jack and the transmission.
- your jack or lift may not raise high enough so you may have to be inventive with blocks of wood etc, which makes it extra awkward trying to align the box going back in.
- given the age of the car, disassembly may well be difficult (I know you mention the exhaust specifically so you're on the case) but be aware that a comparatively simple task can turn into a few hours' headache if something won't come undone .
- try not to work to time pressure... especially first time it's bound to take longer than you think.
The last clutch I changed was on 2003 Audi A4 which took me all day Saturday and half on Sunday. At the end of it I looked like I'd just crawled out of a coal mine. Without DIYing it the car would have been an economic write-off, so well worth doing if you value the car, not to mention richly satisfying to get the job done successfully!
I do hope I wasn't coming across patronising in the above... it's obviously all doable with a bit of persistence and basic mechanical skill.... really hope it goes well for you.
Sorry I can't give you any specific advice but my recommendations are:
- don't underestimate how heavy the gearbox will be and how awkward it will be to manoeuvre on/off the engine. Not too bad coming off but usually a pig to get back on, especially without a transmission jack and with the car on axle stands.
- make absolutely sure the car is safe on its stands and get it as high as you can safely. Bear in mind you will need to elevate the transmission back into position so will need to be high enough to accommodate the jack and the transmission.
- your jack or lift may not raise high enough so you may have to be inventive with blocks of wood etc, which makes it extra awkward trying to align the box going back in.
- given the age of the car, disassembly may well be difficult (I know you mention the exhaust specifically so you're on the case) but be aware that a comparatively simple task can turn into a few hours' headache if something won't come undone .
- try not to work to time pressure... especially first time it's bound to take longer than you think.
The last clutch I changed was on 2003 Audi A4 which took me all day Saturday and half on Sunday. At the end of it I looked like I'd just crawled out of a coal mine. Without DIYing it the car would have been an economic write-off, so well worth doing if you value the car, not to mention richly satisfying to get the job done successfully!
I do hope I wasn't coming across patronising in the above... it's obviously all doable with a bit of persistence and basic mechanical skill.... really hope it goes well for you.
Wheatsheaf said:
I've not done a clutch change on that car I'm afraid. But I have done a fair few in my time and one thing I will say is that it is a deeply unpleasant job and a pretty difficult one to boot (especially with a large/heavy gearbox without a proper vehicle lift to work under).
Sorry I can't give you any specific advice but my recommendations are:
- don't underestimate how heavy the gearbox will be and how awkward it will be to manoeuvre on/off the engine. Not too bad coming off but usually a pig to get back on, especially without a transmission jack and with the car on axle stands.
- make absolutely sure the car is safe on its stands and get it as high as you can safely. Bear in mind you will need to elevate the transmission back into position so will need to be high enough to accommodate the jack and the transmission.
- your jack or lift may not raise high enough so you may have to be inventive with blocks of wood etc, which makes it extra awkward trying to align the box going back in.
- given the age of the car, disassembly may well be difficult (I know you mention the exhaust specifically so you're on the case) but be aware that a comparatively simple task can turn into a few hours' headache if something won't come undone .
- try not to work to time pressure... especially first time it's bound to take longer than you think.
The last clutch I changed was on 2003 Audi A4 which took me all day Saturday and half on Sunday. At the end of it I looked like I'd just crawled out of a coal mine. Without DIYing it the car would have been an economic write-off, so well worth doing if you value the car, not to mention richly satisfying to get the job done successfully!
I do hope I wasn't coming across patronising in the above... it's obviously all doable with a bit of persistence and basic mechanical skill.... really hope it goes well for you.
I changed a clutch on a Ford Escort in the mid-1970s (RWD). It was an all day job, laying underneath, with the weight of the gearbox on my knees. Even though I was much younger then, I still said ‘never again’. Since then I have kept cars for 150k miles, and no car since has needed a clutch change. I would suggest you get a garage to do it in all honesty.Sorry I can't give you any specific advice but my recommendations are:
- don't underestimate how heavy the gearbox will be and how awkward it will be to manoeuvre on/off the engine. Not too bad coming off but usually a pig to get back on, especially without a transmission jack and with the car on axle stands.
- make absolutely sure the car is safe on its stands and get it as high as you can safely. Bear in mind you will need to elevate the transmission back into position so will need to be high enough to accommodate the jack and the transmission.
- your jack or lift may not raise high enough so you may have to be inventive with blocks of wood etc, which makes it extra awkward trying to align the box going back in.
- given the age of the car, disassembly may well be difficult (I know you mention the exhaust specifically so you're on the case) but be aware that a comparatively simple task can turn into a few hours' headache if something won't come undone .
- try not to work to time pressure... especially first time it's bound to take longer than you think.
The last clutch I changed was on 2003 Audi A4 which took me all day Saturday and half on Sunday. At the end of it I looked like I'd just crawled out of a coal mine. Without DIYing it the car would have been an economic write-off, so well worth doing if you value the car, not to mention richly satisfying to get the job done successfully!
I do hope I wasn't coming across patronising in the above... it's obviously all doable with a bit of persistence and basic mechanical skill.... really hope it goes well for you.
Wheatsheaf said:
I do hope I wasn't coming across patronising in the above... it's obviously all doable with a bit of persistence and basic mechanical skill.... really hope it goes well for you.
Nothing in your comment that's patronising, full, frank & honest description of what to expect especially for someone "New to working on cars" Good luck OP.
Belle427 said:
He probably has that car on his archives.
Thank you for recommending Kevin Albert Williams. I hadn't heard of them before.While I couldn't find an Octavia Mk1 clutch job on their channel, maybe the 2003 VW Golf Mk4 1.9 TDI clutch-swap video is close. But for all I know, the things needed to be moved out of the way might be very different.
Perhaps it's not necessary for me to know exactly what needs to get out of the way, since it will be apparent at the time, but it may be important to know how to disconnect the heavy transmission components, and what needs doing from the engine bay side.
InitialDave said:
Does the Octavia do the common VAG thing where you can unbolt the front panel entirely for access to the engine bay?
I'm not sure about that. Are you saying the transmission can be released from the engine bay, with a lift platform device under it to bear the load?Wheatsheaf said:
- don't underestimate how heavy the gearbox will be and how awkward it will be to manoeuvre on/off the engine.
Hopefully the scissor lift tray thing will help with that, or a platform for the hydraulic jack to lift it up (although I can't seem to release the pressure gently). said:
- make absolutely sure the car is safe on its stands and get it as high as you can safely. Bear in mind you will need to elevate the transmission back into position so will need to be high enough to accommodate the jack and the transmission.
It will be done on almost completely flat ground (the car doesn't roll without brakes applied it's so flat), partially on the curb. The gutter will offer even more space under the vehicle. - If the front wheels need to come off for any reasons, I'll use them as back-up axle-stands under the area of work said:
- your jack or lift may not raise high enough so you may have to be inventive with blocks of wood etc
Good point. I may have a few bricks. said:
a comparatively simple task can turn into a few hours' headache if something won't come undone .
This is part of the reason I want to get started right away with loosening the exhaust bolts, the moment the car is on jack-stands. It's from 2008. said:
- try not to work to time pressure... especially first time it's bound to take longer than you think.
I'm hoping that two days will be enough, with a healthy level of desperation to drive the learning curve. If it takes 12 hours to remove the exhaust bolts, I may postpone the rest of the project until the next weekend, to avoid finishing the rest of the project under time-pressure, and the exhaust would come off faster with new bolts should the project be postponed to the following weekend said:
The last clutch I changed was on 2003 Audi A4 which took me all day Saturday and half on Sunday.
Maybe I'll start with loosening the exhaust bolts on a Friday evening, to ensure that's out of the way for the rest of the complications to commence. said:
Without DIYing it the car would have been an economic write-off, so well worth doing if you value the car, not to mention richly satisfying to get the job done successfully!
This is exciting. Cars are such expensive things, but we're halving the price by doing this. said:
I do hope I wasn't coming across patronising in the above... it's obviously all doable with a bit of persistence and basic mechanical skill.... really hope it goes well for you.
Not at all; thank you for the frank advice.Maxdecel said:
full, frank & honest description of what to expect especially for someone "New to working on cars" Good luck OP.
Thank you.Edited by Conal on Saturday 18th January 22:09
Conal said:
I'm not sure about that. Are you saying the transmission can be released from the engine bay, with a lift platform device under it to bear the load?
Bumper, lights, front panel and radiator removed, so the front end is completely open access to the engine bay.Gives much better access for manhandling things at the cost of more dismantling/reassembly and the draining and refilling of coolant.
Without an engine crane, you'll likely need to leave the engine in place with a crossbeam to support the gearbox end of it while you remove the gearbox. As others have said, realigning them can be fiddly, so more access can help.
Those 1.9s are relatively straightforward designs to work on for a "modern" FWD installation, but if you've not done work on this level/scale before, it can be daunting.
But it's just a series of not that technically difficult tasks, if you're methodical and take your time I don't see it being unmanageable for someone with at least some mechanical experience.
It helps a lot if you're fairly strong, and can (relatively) easily just pick up things like gearboxes and wriggle them home, especially if working from underneath lying on your back.
Note you'll almost certainly need a set of XZN triple-square bits, VAG loves using them on driveshaft bolts etc.
Thank you for your advice, everyone. Depending on how the MOT goes in a few days, this mission will go with full commitment.
Depending on how long parts, tools, pastes and fluids take to arrive, I will get the car on axle-stands during a Friday evening (after work), flame those exhaust bolts loose as the sun sets, and get to work on the transmission over the weekend.
I'll either be getting that disk out on Saturday the 25th of January, or the 1st or 8th of February, by which point the current clutch kit will have worsened from driving to work.
The object is saving costs, so if you've got something that would work and is cheaper than elsewhere, I'd have it.
Depending on how long parts, tools, pastes and fluids take to arrive, I will get the car on axle-stands during a Friday evening (after work), flame those exhaust bolts loose as the sun sets, and get to work on the transmission over the weekend.
I'll either be getting that disk out on Saturday the 25th of January, or the 1st or 8th of February, by which point the current clutch kit will have worsened from driving to work.
Pica-Pica said:
I would suggest you get a garage to do it in all honesty.
I'm prepared to get my hands dirty, and eyes sooty.the-norseman said:
Think I've got a Valeo SMF kit in my garage that would fit this, it was for a MK1 Leon PD150.
Are you looking to sell it? Is it better than OEM for the basic remap to come later? Would it just work perfectly in the car without a noob mechanic having to adjust anything else?The object is saving costs, so if you've got something that would work and is cheaper than elsewhere, I'd have it.
InitialDave said:
Bumper, lights, front panel and radiator removed, so the front end is completely open access to the engine bay.
Will they have to come off? The socket wrench kit I've got at the moment has all sorts of long and bendy bars to reach tight spaces. said:
Gives much better access for manhandling things at the cost of more dismantling/reassembly and the draining and refilling of coolant.
I'll consider that if something is getting trickey that could be sped up with more engine bay angles to attack from, and consider it by having the coolant on standby to get it moved. said:
Without an engine crane, you'll likely need to leave the engine in place with a crossbeam to support the gearbox end of it while you remove the gearbox.
A jack to hold it? I've realised now that scissor-lift tables are expensive, but there's a small £89.99 hydraulic table for motorbikes that can hold 135 kg, which ought to support a 125 kg gearbox. said:
As others have said, realigning them can be fiddly, so more access can help.
I'll try to get it done in enough time that there will be enough for that if alignment becomes troublesome. said:
if you've not done work on this level/scale before, it can be daunting.
Hopefully not once this plan is clear and structured. said:
I don't see it being unmanageable for someone with at least some mechanical experience.
I've replaced the handbrake lever (with vRS), air filter, removed the rear seats, taken off some body trims, swapped the battery, changed various bulbs, but don't have a lot of car experience (yet). said:
It helps a lot if you're fairly strong, and can (relatively) easily just pick up things like gearboxes and wriggle them home, especially if working from underneath lying on your back.
I'm strong, but it's been a while since I remembered what lifting 125 kg is like. I'll be using a lift table, and could do some manual lifting depending on room. said:
Note you'll almost certainly need a set of XZN triple-square bits, VAG loves using them on driveshaft bolts etc.
I've got M bits in the socket set, but should look for some schematics of the driveshaft, if that's what must come undone also.Edited by Conal on Saturday 18th January 22:09
The gearbox shouldn't weigh 125kg. I'd guesstimate half that.
Jack under the sump works, but cam be wobbly when wrestling with stuff.
Engine support beam goes abroad between the strut tops/inner wings and the unsupported end off the engine can be hung from it.
Can get a cheap one for about £50. Hefty length of wood or bit of scaffold pole can also be made to work.
Driveshafts should unbolt from the gearbox output flanges.
Jack under the sump works, but cam be wobbly when wrestling with stuff.
Engine support beam goes abroad between the strut tops/inner wings and the unsupported end off the engine can be hung from it.
Can get a cheap one for about £50. Hefty length of wood or bit of scaffold pole can also be made to work.
Driveshafts should unbolt from the gearbox output flanges.
Just had bad news from the mechanic. The gearbox is screwed on it.
Now, I have the 02J schematics and some of the tools to get the gearbox off as well, and those parts aren't as expensive, but, basically all funds should go to the new car. Probably a petrol Octavia Mk1 or Golf Mk4, to move some parts across.
Unless I add a new gearbox to the list of parts, and continue the mission since the gearbox is coming out anyway?
Is replacing the gearbox complicated? I think opening it and finding the broken gears, then replacing them would add a lot of time without a car.
But if this car can become the diesel project car a couple months down the line, then the gearbox could be looked at.
Unless anyone reckons adding a new gearbox isn't much of an additional complication during the clutch swap?
Now, I have the 02J schematics and some of the tools to get the gearbox off as well, and those parts aren't as expensive, but, basically all funds should go to the new car. Probably a petrol Octavia Mk1 or Golf Mk4, to move some parts across.
Unless I add a new gearbox to the list of parts, and continue the mission since the gearbox is coming out anyway?
Is replacing the gearbox complicated? I think opening it and finding the broken gears, then replacing them would add a lot of time without a car.
But if this car can become the diesel project car a couple months down the line, then the gearbox could be looked at.
Unless anyone reckons adding a new gearbox isn't much of an additional complication during the clutch swap?
InitialDave said:
The gearbox shouldn't weigh 125kg. I'd guesstimate half that.
I wonder if it would be a reasonable weight to lift, steady, and bolt with two people in the space. said:
Engine support beam goes abroad between the strut tops/inner wings and the unsupported end off the engine can be hung from it.
Do I need to lift the engine? said:
Driveshafts should unbolt from the gearbox output flanges.
I think there's a diagram in the 02J schematics about that.Wheatsheaf said:
OP, I see you are in Bristol, as am I... if you get stuck or want a second pair of eyes/hands then PM me... Happy to help 
Thank you very much for the offer. It might help to make an emergency video call about something leaking that won't stop. Surely, you are taking the gearbox out to change the clutch anyway?
I realise that on some cars you don't need to FULLY remove it, but surely even if it is one of those you are 75% there by then.
In your post you ask if you need to lift the engine, no you don't but you will likely need to either support it from above or below to allow some more movement of the engine/box to help things along.
I realise that on some cars you don't need to FULLY remove it, but surely even if it is one of those you are 75% there by then.
In your post you ask if you need to lift the engine, no you don't but you will likely need to either support it from above or below to allow some more movement of the engine/box to help things along.
The latest is the gearbox is screwed as well, and the garage reckon it's an economic write-off now. They said it's unreliable to put a used gearbox in, that the dual-mass flywheel also needs replacing. I would be willing to do it, with affordable working parts, but I don't know if the tools I'm outstanding are too expensive.
The MOT results say...
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake disc significantly and obviously worn (1.1.14 (a) (i))
Front Service brake excessively fluctuating both sides (1.2.1 (e))
Nearside Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
Nearside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Rear Axle swivel pins and bushes swivel pin and/or bush slightly worn (5.1.2 (b) (i))
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
They think the car is an economic write-off and not worth saving, even if all labour costs were deducted and I had friends to help fit a new dual-mass flywheel, clutch plate and gearbox. I put the MOT results above, and the valid one is about to expire.
There doesn't seem to be a video on this exact car having it done, from start to finish, which leaves a lot of unanswered questions.
The MOT results say...
Repair immediately (major defects):
Offside Stop lamp(s) not working (4.3.1 (a) (ii))
Rear Brake disc significantly and obviously worn (1.1.14 (a) (i))
Front Service brake excessively fluctuating both sides (1.2.1 (e))
Nearside Parking brake inoperative on one side (1.4.1 (a))
Nearside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Parking brake efficiency below requirements (1.4.2 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Oil leak, but not excessive (8.4.1 (a) (i))
Front Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Front Coil spring corroded (5.3.1 (b) (i))
Rear Axle swivel pins and bushes swivel pin and/or bush slightly worn (5.1.2 (b) (i))
Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
Front Anti-roll bar linkage pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement both sides (5.3.4 (a) (i))
E-bmw said:
Surely, you are taking the gearbox out to change the clutch anyway?
That's what I thought, and it seems to be the case, yet my garage have said that a used gearbox would be unreliable.They think the car is an economic write-off and not worth saving, even if all labour costs were deducted and I had friends to help fit a new dual-mass flywheel, clutch plate and gearbox. I put the MOT results above, and the valid one is about to expire.
said:
I realise that on some cars you don't need to FULLY remove it, but surely even if it is one of those you are 75% there by then.
I thought so, since it comes off during the swap anyway, but the garage maintained that even doing it myself isn't economical.There doesn't seem to be a video on this exact car having it done, from start to finish, which leaves a lot of unanswered questions.
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In your post you ask if you need to lift the engine, no you don't but you will likely need to either support it from above or below to allow some more movement of the engine/box to help things along.
I wonder if the jack could push on it from the ground.Edited by Conal on Monday 20th January 19:34
I personally don't see that as uneconomical, but then I would be doing all of that myself a few hours a day & be done in a week.
The question you need to ask yourself is how much is the car worth & how much is it worth to keep it?
If the car is a £2k car & means nothing to you to keep, then it is time to put it on ebay/gumtree etc sold as "spares or repairs" and you may get £1k for it.
To repair in parts (not a precise figure without more info) would likely be around £1K ana as above a week of part-time working on it, to pay your garage to do it would quite easily double that and possibly much more, which is why they are saying it is uneconomical to repair.
Another alternative would be to ask them to quote for the fail items on the MOT & do the gearbox/clutch yourself as you were going to anyway.
To do that may perhaps be more like £1.5k, so how much is it worth to you?
To answer your other question, yes a jack may well do it.
The question you need to ask yourself is how much is the car worth & how much is it worth to keep it?
If the car is a £2k car & means nothing to you to keep, then it is time to put it on ebay/gumtree etc sold as "spares or repairs" and you may get £1k for it.
To repair in parts (not a precise figure without more info) would likely be around £1K ana as above a week of part-time working on it, to pay your garage to do it would quite easily double that and possibly much more, which is why they are saying it is uneconomical to repair.
Another alternative would be to ask them to quote for the fail items on the MOT & do the gearbox/clutch yourself as you were going to anyway.
To do that may perhaps be more like £1.5k, so how much is it worth to you?
To answer your other question, yes a jack may well do it.
E-bmw said:
I personally don't see that as uneconomical, but then I would be doing all of that myself a few hours a day & be done in a week.
I wish I could just start putting it together, because the parts would be significantly cheaper than a new car. said:
The question you need to ask yourself is how much is the car worth & how much is it worth to keep it?
The car has otherwise been economic to maintain, and that's a factor in wanting to fix it, but it's not worth over £1,000 to repair said:
If the car is a £2k car & means nothing to you to keep, then it is time to put it on ebay/gumtree etc sold as "spares or repairs" and you may get £1k for it.
It cost about £750, and has been cheap to run for years. I somewhat feel that with the transmission job done, it would then be a reliable smooth car.Although it was cheap to buy, it has kept me going a while.
If it could be given a life extension with second-hand parts and a full weekend of working on it, I'd be tempted.
said:
To repair in parts (not a precise figure without more info) would likely be around £1K ana as above a week of part-time working on it, to pay your garage to do it would quite easily double that and possibly much more, which is why they are saying it is uneconomical to repair.
They said uneconomical to repair even with mates to help install the parts.Are they wrong?
said:
Another alternative would be to ask them to quote for the fail items on the MOT & do the gearbox/clutch yourself as you were going to anyway.
To do that may perhaps be more like £1.5k, so how much is it worth to you?
I'd rather get a project sTo do that may perhaps be more like £1.5k, so how much is it worth to you?
tbox runner for £1.5k,But the clutch and gearbox parts may cost £450 together.
Edited by Conal on Tuesday 21st January 09:34
Conal said:
I'd rather get a project stbox runner for £1.5k,
But the clutch and gearbox parts may cost £450 together.
Sorry to put a damper on your estimate, the gearbox/clutch/DMF/slave will be well over that amount.tbox runner for £1.5k,But the clutch and gearbox parts may cost £450 together.
Much closer to £1k
Likely around £5/600 for the brake work required would be my first pass finger in the wind estimate on top of that.
Before rushing to condemn the car, what makes the mechanic think it needs a new gearbox as opposed to you thinking a new clutch?
The MOT says it needs discs and pads all round and a coil spring. Add on a clutch, a used gearbox and some fluids and I reckon you're at £500 minimum. In terms of tools, you can probably get away with a good socket set, combination spanners, a couple of jacks, jack-stands, spring compressor, and considering the age of car, angle grinder, propane torch, big hammer and chisel. Sturdy pieces of timber are good for spreading loads and old seat belts are good for supporting things from above.
It's quite a lot of work and I'd only be tempted if the car was good otherwise, in particular no bad corrosion or engine issues.
The MOT says it needs discs and pads all round and a coil spring. Add on a clutch, a used gearbox and some fluids and I reckon you're at £500 minimum. In terms of tools, you can probably get away with a good socket set, combination spanners, a couple of jacks, jack-stands, spring compressor, and considering the age of car, angle grinder, propane torch, big hammer and chisel. Sturdy pieces of timber are good for spreading loads and old seat belts are good for supporting things from above.
It's quite a lot of work and I'd only be tempted if the car was good otherwise, in particular no bad corrosion or engine issues.
Edited by Shedding on Tuesday 21st January 17:47
Edited by Shedding on Tuesday 21st January 17:47
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