Car transporter trailer servicing
Discussion
Have a look on youtube.
Random example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LgKibFpL4c
Depending on your drum type the bearings will either be retained by a split pin & castellated nut or a 'one shot' wheel nut. The latter is slightly oval & is intended to be used once & then replaced.
This should help identify your type: https://www.trailertek.com/trailer-parts
The caps should be pryable, but a cold chisel tapped gently into the area where it contacts the drum will often remove them if you alternate sides to work it loose.
Random example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LgKibFpL4c
Depending on your drum type the bearings will either be retained by a split pin & castellated nut or a 'one shot' wheel nut. The latter is slightly oval & is intended to be used once & then replaced.
This should help identify your type: https://www.trailertek.com/trailer-parts
The caps should be pryable, but a cold chisel tapped gently into the area where it contacts the drum will often remove them if you alternate sides to work it loose.
I opened the dust cap and doesn’t seem to have a nipple or anything to grease the bearings. See before and after below
I packed bunch of grease regardless thinking bearing will suck it in if needed.
Didn’t have a 42mm socket to open the hub and see what is behind it/ what is needed
https://ibb.co/p0YTW5B
https://ibb.co/VV8t3sm
I packed bunch of grease regardless thinking bearing will suck it in if needed.
Didn’t have a 42mm socket to open the hub and see what is behind it/ what is needed
https://ibb.co/p0YTW5B
https://ibb.co/VV8t3sm
Piston2022 said:
I opened the dust cap and doesn’t seem to have a nipple or anything to grease the bearings. See before and after below
I packed bunch of grease regardless thinking bearing will suck it in if needed.
Didn’t have a 42mm socket to open the hub and see what is behind it/ what is needed
https://ibb.co/p0YTW5B
https://ibb.co/VV8t3sm
I would expect to need to remove the nut to achieve anything worthwhile on that.I packed bunch of grease regardless thinking bearing will suck it in if needed.
Didn’t have a 42mm socket to open the hub and see what is behind it/ what is needed
https://ibb.co/p0YTW5B
https://ibb.co/VV8t3sm
Piston2022 said:
I think that might not be the case. Manual stated inspect/ regrease every 1000miles that means taking that bolt on and off repeatedly meaning axle and bolt be useless after few use
If the manual says that, what makes you think a few times & it will be goosed?Is the trailer only good for 3,000 miles?
Is the axle made of Brie or something?
On top of that it is a nut not a bolt.
Those kind of hub bearings are generally sealed and don’t need greasing. Looks like the only time you would undo that nut would be to take the drum off to check the shoes.
The older conical bearings with the castellated nut and split pin would be manually greased but even they don’t need doing every thousand miles.
The older conical bearings with the castellated nut and split pin would be manually greased but even they don’t need doing every thousand miles.
Steve H said:
Those kind of hub bearings are generally sealed and don’t need greasing. Looks like the only time you would undo that nut would be to take the drum off to check the shoes.
The older conical bearings with the castellated nut and split pin would be manually greased but even they don’t need doing every thousand miles.
You are correct Steve, I spoke to iforwilliam and they confirmed the same The older conical bearings with the castellated nut and split pin would be manually greased but even they don’t need doing every thousand miles.
When asked when do I change the bearing really answer was when you spin the wheel and it binds or anything showing sign of faulty bearing
The hub nut torque was 360nm and only time one needs to open it is for inspection or changing break shoes
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