Issues with car battery
Discussion
Had a problem for a while now with my car not always starting. Has been happening more regularly for last few days. If I leave my lights on for even only a few mins the battery is dead. I did a 10 min drive before and left the car for 5 mins it wouldn't start. I have a portable jump starter which it always starts no problem. I'm guessing it's just the battery that needs replacing? Tempted to do it myself cos td cheaper but does the battery need to be tested first? Oddly I've only had this battery for maybe a year and a half which doesn't seem long at all. Although I do a lot of stop start driving as I do deliveries and often have my phone charging ( don't know if this can affect the battery life).
Another thing I'm concerned about is could my remote central locking potentially not work if it is completely drained? I can't use the door lock with the key as the lock is damaged so worried it could get to the point of going to unlock my car and the fob not working?
I would take it back to the place I got it as I imagine it's under guarantee but I don't have the receipt and also it's quite far from where I live. What's the best way to proceed. Should I just buy a new battery and replace it myself as it looks pretty straightforward. I have a honda jazz 2007. I've seen this lion 063 battery on euro car parts only £41 will it be OK? Is it worth paying more for a different brand they have like 6 options at different prices.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/car-battery
Another thing I'm concerned about is could my remote central locking potentially not work if it is completely drained? I can't use the door lock with the key as the lock is damaged so worried it could get to the point of going to unlock my car and the fob not working?
I would take it back to the place I got it as I imagine it's under guarantee but I don't have the receipt and also it's quite far from where I live. What's the best way to proceed. Should I just buy a new battery and replace it myself as it looks pretty straightforward. I have a honda jazz 2007. I've seen this lion 063 battery on euro car parts only £41 will it be OK? Is it worth paying more for a different brand they have like 6 options at different prices.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/car-battery
Car batteries have a life span, probably around 8 years. Assuming all the earth straps and connections are good, it is probable that a new battery will fix your issue but even if not, a new battery is a good idea, approaching winter.
Halfords can test your battery for free. Any new battery is going to be fine but go for the highest CCA ( cold cranking amp) rating.
Only other suspect would be the alternator.
Halfords can test your battery for free. Any new battery is going to be fine but go for the highest CCA ( cold cranking amp) rating.
Only other suspect would be the alternator.
Edited by LuS1fer on Sunday 17th November 15:32
Yeah I am a bit worried about it maybe being the alternator as I've had this battery less than two years. I thought to book in for a free test at halfords but then they are often a bit pricier for repairs. I guess I could get it repaired elsewhere? Might try my local garage in the morning see if he can look at it
Lion batteries are never the answer. Unless the question is "What battery makes a good door stop?"
It's worth checking that your car is not draining the battery more than it should be (parasitic draw test). However, if you bought a cheapy battery previously, you have no other issues and you don't know someone who can do this for you...changing the battery for a new (good) one is likely the best way to proceed.
It's worth checking that your car is not draining the battery more than it should be (parasitic draw test). However, if you bought a cheapy battery previously, you have no other issues and you don't know someone who can do this for you...changing the battery for a new (good) one is likely the best way to proceed.
Id agree to steer clear of Lion batteries, have a look here and if you want the best that will last pick a Varta.
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/?gad_source=...
https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/?gad_source=...
To update I got my mechanic to have a look he said he couldn't find anything wrong so wasn't sure. He said the best way would be to leave it with him for a couple of days to see if it goes flat I guess then he could try to figure it out but I need my car. Could there be something that he didn't check for? Must be something that is causing it as it happened four times yesterday. I've read about leaks or something draining it but don't know if he checked for that. I should mention I do a lot of stop start short journeys as I'm a delivery driver. Not really sure what to do now. Could driving it cause any further damage like affect the alternator or something?
robdex1 said:
To update I got my mechanic to have a look he said he couldn't find anything wrong so wasn't sure. He said the best way would be to leave it with him for a couple of days to see if it goes flat I guess then he could try to figure it out but I need my car. Could there be something that he didn't check for? Must be something that is causing it as it happened four times yesterday. I've read about leaks or something draining it but don't know if he checked for that. I should mention I do a lot of stop start short journeys as I'm a delivery driver. Not really sure what to do now. Could driving it cause any further damage like affect the alternator or something?
What car is it?Of course lots of stop starting will drain the battery. It may have the wrong battery. I would look at the dimensions of your current battery and upgrade it.
Post what the specs are of your current battery. An EFB battery (used on Stop-Start cars) may provide the answer.
If you look at the Tayna website, put in your battery size code, you will see the various specs available. So, as an example, an 063 battery can vary from 44 Ah 380A up to 52Ah up to 520A.
This is a very simple system to check correct operation.
You need to check the current being drawn from the battery with the car shut off/locked. It takes a while before you can measure this as modern cars can take a bit before all the computers controlling the various components turn off. Even the worst are usually at minimal current draw after 20 minutes though (many take less time, some take even longer). You can test with a volt meter, Amp clamp is better.
Next is a check of the charging system to make sure the battery is charging when the engine is running (Volt meter and Amp clamp again).
Ideally you would then 'load test' the battery with a carbon pile tester after it has been fully charged. If you don't have one then the headlamps provide a decent load and the battery voltage shouldn't drop significantly with them turned on for a few minutes (engine off). If the other tests are fine you can skip this test and replace the battery.
This is assuming that the mechanic has tested for voltage drop at the battery/starter etc when the car fails to start.
If your mechanic can't do the above (it's really simple but many can't) find another one.
You need to check the current being drawn from the battery with the car shut off/locked. It takes a while before you can measure this as modern cars can take a bit before all the computers controlling the various components turn off. Even the worst are usually at minimal current draw after 20 minutes though (many take less time, some take even longer). You can test with a volt meter, Amp clamp is better.
Next is a check of the charging system to make sure the battery is charging when the engine is running (Volt meter and Amp clamp again).
Ideally you would then 'load test' the battery with a carbon pile tester after it has been fully charged. If you don't have one then the headlamps provide a decent load and the battery voltage shouldn't drop significantly with them turned on for a few minutes (engine off). If the other tests are fine you can skip this test and replace the battery.
This is assuming that the mechanic has tested for voltage drop at the battery/starter etc when the car fails to start.
If your mechanic can't do the above (it's really simple but many can't) find another one.
LuS1fer said:
What car is it?
Of course lots of stop starting will drain the battery. It may have the wrong battery. I would look at the dimensions of your current battery and upgrade it.
Post what the specs are of your current battery. An EFB battery (used on Stop-Start cars) may provide the answer.
If you look at the Tayna website, put in your battery size code, you will see the various specs available. So, as an example, an 063 battery can vary from 44 Ah 380A up to 52Ah up to 520A.
It's a honda jazz 2007. It's not a stop/start battery. I can't see the battery properly without removing one of the bolts from the bracket/casing that is holding the battery and I don't have tools to hand. I got my battery at an auto electrical garage so would have thought they had provided the right oneOf course lots of stop starting will drain the battery. It may have the wrong battery. I would look at the dimensions of your current battery and upgrade it.
Post what the specs are of your current battery. An EFB battery (used on Stop-Start cars) may provide the answer.
If you look at the Tayna website, put in your battery size code, you will see the various specs available. So, as an example, an 063 battery can vary from 44 Ah 380A up to 52Ah up to 520A.
Richard-D said:
This is a very simple system to check correct operation.
You need to check the current being drawn from the battery with the car shut off/locked. It takes a while before you can measure this as modern cars can take a bit before all the computers controlling the various components turn off. Even the worst are usually at minimal current draw after 20 minutes though (many take less time, some take even longer). You can test with a volt meter, Amp clamp is better.
Next is a check of the charging system to make sure the battery is charging when the engine is running (Volt meter and Amp clamp again).
Ideally you would then 'load test' the battery with a carbon pile tester after it has been fully charged. If you don't have one then the headlamps provide a decent load and the battery voltage shouldn't drop significantly with them turned on for a few minutes (engine off). If the other tests are fine you can skip this test and replace the battery.
This is assuming that the mechanic has tested for voltage drop at the battery/starter etc when the car fails to start.
If your mechanic can't do the above (it's really simple but many can't) find another one.
I have no idea if he tested any of that to be honest. He had it for a few hours. You mentioned about the headlights. The other day I was sat in my car for maybe 5-10 mins with the headlights accidentally on but the ignition was off and the battery was dead had to jump startYou need to check the current being drawn from the battery with the car shut off/locked. It takes a while before you can measure this as modern cars can take a bit before all the computers controlling the various components turn off. Even the worst are usually at minimal current draw after 20 minutes though (many take less time, some take even longer). You can test with a volt meter, Amp clamp is better.
Next is a check of the charging system to make sure the battery is charging when the engine is running (Volt meter and Amp clamp again).
Ideally you would then 'load test' the battery with a carbon pile tester after it has been fully charged. If you don't have one then the headlamps provide a decent load and the battery voltage shouldn't drop significantly with them turned on for a few minutes (engine off). If the other tests are fine you can skip this test and replace the battery.
This is assuming that the mechanic has tested for voltage drop at the battery/starter etc when the car fails to start.
If your mechanic can't do the above (it's really simple but many can't) find another one.
robdex1 said:
It's a honda jazz 2007. It's not a stop/start battery. I can't see the battery properly without removing one of the bolts from the bracket/casing that is holding the battery and I don't have tools to hand. I got my battery at an auto electrical garage so would have thought they had provided the right one
According to the Tayna website, it should be an 054N 38Ah 340A battery.Strangely, they specifically offer the 054N battery on the Jazz. Obviously, a whole load of other 054 batteries fit and have the same dimensions.
I checked what N meant and found this reply (for a 75C battery):
"The N or C is a performance parameter. 75 is the group number which defines the physical size of the battery. In your case the N means a reserve capacity of 95 amps at 90 minutes discharge. The C battery you have installed is rated at 25 amps at 90 minutes reserve. So the battery installed has less reserve power than the one specified for the car. The extra reserve would help to start the car after a sustained discharge that could happen while driving slowly in traffic with lights, wipers, heater and radio all going at once and you park it. As in - drive to dinner in the city in bad weather, eat and then drive home. The extra reserve helps re-start after that."
So it may be worth checking what battery was fitted and rechecking the specs. I simply add that I am no expert and have no idea if the above is correct or not as there is nothing on the internet to assist. My own view would be that fitting something like a Yuasa YBX5000 with a bit more power (40Ah 360A) could be a reasonable choice. No doubt others will chip in.
Whenever i have to renew a battery, as above suggests i always find the highest capacity that will fit, if there's a Diesel version of my petrol car and the battery dimensions still allow fitment that what gets fitted, 4 years or more warranty only, Yuasa 5000 have 5 year warranties.
Starting the car at 2.30 to 3.30am most work mornings don't want any issues.
Makes? Yuasa and Varta/Bosch are decent, decided to go Exide on the current cars just for the hell of it, doing well so far.
Tayna take some beating for battery supply at decent cost.
Starting the car at 2.30 to 3.30am most work mornings don't want any issues.
Makes? Yuasa and Varta/Bosch are decent, decided to go Exide on the current cars just for the hell of it, doing well so far.
Tayna take some beating for battery supply at decent cost.
Just happened again now been driving doing deliveries for an hour or so and then suddenly wouldn't start. I don't really know what to do. Is there any point booking for the free battery check at halfords? Will they just say the same thing? Could try another mechanic but not sure who to try
robdex1 said:
Just happened again now been driving doing deliveries for an hour or so and then suddenly wouldn't start. I don't really know what to do. Is there any point booking for the free battery check at halfords? Will they just say the same thing? Could try another mechanic but not sure who to try
Halfords sell Yuasa batteries anyway, or at least they did last time i looked, generally the 4 year warranty 4000 range, so if the battery is toast you'll be in the right place.I'd be fixing that broken door lock in short order because one day something will go wrong and you'll be breaking something more expensive to get in.
Get the best battery you can, your usage isn't giving the battery the chance to recharge fully so the more reserve capacity the better.
GreenV8S said:
Get the battery and charging system tested. Most places that supply and fit batteries will do this for free.
If the battery is faulty, replace it.
If the charging system is faulty, repair it before replacing the battery.
My mechanic tested it this morning and said nothing wrong with the batteryIf the battery is faulty, replace it.
If the charging system is faulty, repair it before replacing the battery.
Smint said:
Halfords sell Yuasa batteries anyway, or at least they did last time i looked, generally the 4 year warranty 4000 range, so if the battery is toast you'll be in the right place.
I'd be fixing that broken door lock in short order because one day something will go wrong and you'll be breaking something more expensive to get in.
Get the best battery you can, your usage isn't giving the battery the chance to recharge fully so the more reserve capacity the better.
Yeah they have a yuasa battery that is £127 but I have been told there is nothing wrong with my battery. I'd be fixing that broken door lock in short order because one day something will go wrong and you'll be breaking something more expensive to get in.
Get the best battery you can, your usage isn't giving the battery the chance to recharge fully so the more reserve capacity the better.
Plenty of good advice has been updated on this thread already.
IF your mechanic has correctly tested the battery, then the fault, if there is one, must lie with the charging system. It might simply be that your use of the car is resulting in a heavy battery drain, more than is being put back into the system and possibly a weakening small capacity battery exacerbating the issue.
If you're not confident testing it yourself, then I'd suggest finding an auto-electrician to test the system. The advice to fit the most powerul battery that will fit would suit your type of use and decent battery brands have been mentioned earlier.
It's difficult for anybody to be specfic over the internet without seeing/testing your car.
IF your mechanic has correctly tested the battery, then the fault, if there is one, must lie with the charging system. It might simply be that your use of the car is resulting in a heavy battery drain, more than is being put back into the system and possibly a weakening small capacity battery exacerbating the issue.
If you're not confident testing it yourself, then I'd suggest finding an auto-electrician to test the system. The advice to fit the most powerul battery that will fit would suit your type of use and decent battery brands have been mentioned earlier.
It's difficult for anybody to be specfic over the internet without seeing/testing your car.
TarquinMX5 said:
Plenty of good advice has been updated on this thread already.
IF your mechanic has correctly tested the battery, then the fault, if there is one, must lie with the charging system. It might simply be that your use of the car is resulting in a heavy battery drain, more than is being put back into the system and possibly a weakening small capacity battery exacerbating the issue.
If you're not confident testing it yourself, then I'd suggest finding an auto-electrician to test the system. The advice to fit the most powerul battery that will fit would suit your type of use and decent battery brands have been mentioned earlier.
It's difficult for anybody to be specfic over the internet without seeing/testing your car.
Cheers I understand that. So halfords/kwikfit won't test the charging system? I'll try to find an auto electrician. In the meantime can any damage be done by using the car when this is happening?IF your mechanic has correctly tested the battery, then the fault, if there is one, must lie with the charging system. It might simply be that your use of the car is resulting in a heavy battery drain, more than is being put back into the system and possibly a weakening small capacity battery exacerbating the issue.
If you're not confident testing it yourself, then I'd suggest finding an auto-electrician to test the system. The advice to fit the most powerul battery that will fit would suit your type of use and decent battery brands have been mentioned earlier.
It's difficult for anybody to be specfic over the internet without seeing/testing your car.
Smint said:
Whenever i have to renew a battery, as above suggests i always find the highest capacity that will fit, if there's a Diesel version of my petrol car and the battery dimensions still allow fitment that what gets fitted, 4 years or more warranty only, Yuasa 5000 have 5 year warranties.
Starting the car at 2.30 to 3.30am most work mornings don't want any issues.
Makes? Yuasa and Varta/Bosch are decent, decided to go Exide on the current cars just for the hell of it, doing well so far.
Tayna take some beating for battery supply at decent cost.
Same here. You can't have too big a battery, amd it's worth getting a good brand.Starting the car at 2.30 to 3.30am most work mornings don't want any issues.
Makes? Yuasa and Varta/Bosch are decent, decided to go Exide on the current cars just for the hell of it, doing well so far.
Tayna take some beating for battery supply at decent cost.
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