Wheel Stud Conversion
Discussion
I'm considering moving to a stud conversion on my 996 GT3 (I'm running BBS E88s and want to add a small spacer to push the wheel out slightly further), I know someone who has used Rally Nuts stuff and has done multiple track days with no problems.
I got the specs and was slightly surprised to see a 20 stud kit come out at over £270+VAT!
I use some nice bolts at work to hold up the entire sides of houses that cost a fraction of that, I was wondering if some "motorsport" tax was being added.
https://cp-performance.co.uk/product/wheel-stud-an... This lot however, come in at £70 and seems a lot more reasonable-it would seem cheapo eBay kits are around the same price give or take.
Has anyone had any experience (if not of the brand names) of the process involved. Is it a simple case of torquing them in correctly and avoiding the rattle gun when removing?
I got the specs and was slightly surprised to see a 20 stud kit come out at over £270+VAT!
I use some nice bolts at work to hold up the entire sides of houses that cost a fraction of that, I was wondering if some "motorsport" tax was being added.
https://cp-performance.co.uk/product/wheel-stud-an... This lot however, come in at £70 and seems a lot more reasonable-it would seem cheapo eBay kits are around the same price give or take.
Has anyone had any experience (if not of the brand names) of the process involved. Is it a simple case of torquing them in correctly and avoiding the rattle gun when removing?
I have used the "cheap" stud conversions on both my Porsche and my race car. Both have been absolutely fine and make wheel changes much easier.
You do not need to torque the stud itself that high (I can't remember the specs of mine but something like 30nm). You then just put the nut on and torque that to the usual spec (130ish for a Porsche).
You can use thread lock on the stud if you like
I regularly use an impact gun on mine without issue
You do not need to torque the stud itself that high (I can't remember the specs of mine but something like 30nm). You then just put the nut on and torque that to the usual spec (130ish for a Porsche).
You can use thread lock on the stud if you like
I regularly use an impact gun on mine without issue
E-bmw said:
LennyM1984 said:
I have used the "cheap" stud conversions on both my Porsche and my race car. Both have been absolutely fine and make wheel changes much easier.
Did exactly the same on my previous TD car with no issues, cost about £35 IIRC.I think I used Mtec studs for both. The ones for my race car were the motorsport style ones (you screw them in with an allen key and they have a bullet end) whilst the ones for my Porsche were just normal ones (you screw them in by locking two nuts together).
I did loads of track days in my Porsche without issue and so I would say that they are both a safe bet (obviously done loads of race days in my race car as well )
I did loads of track days in my Porsche without issue and so I would say that they are both a safe bet (obviously done loads of race days in my race car as well )
I've used Mtec and the cheap eBay ones, no issues with either, I certainly wouldn't pay £270 for a set!
All you really need is a length of 8.8 threaded bar, the rest is just nice finishing for corrosion resistance. As mentioned above you don't need to torque the stud really, just nip it enough that it doesn't want to unwind when you're undoing the nut, 30Nm is fine.
All you really need is a length of 8.8 threaded bar, the rest is just nice finishing for corrosion resistance. As mentioned above you don't need to torque the stud really, just nip it enough that it doesn't want to unwind when you're undoing the nut, 30Nm is fine.
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