What impact wrench? If any…

[WickedWizzzard]

Have been gathering parts to refresh the suspension of my Impreza. I’ve done a fair amount of work around the car (fuel pump, steering pump, starter motor, all regular service stuff, etc) but have never done suspension stuff. I’m a strong believer of having the right tools for any job. The question is, would you suggest I get an impact wrench before I start? Or would a good manual wrench and sockets set do the trick?
If an impact, what would you recommend? What torque rating? Do I really need to go for a brand stuff like Stanley or Milwaukee? There’s soooooo much on offer, it’s daunting.
I know that is something is seized I will struggle maybe there’s where a power tool would come in handy. But don’t want to break the bank unnecessarily. Thanks in advance

[eltax91]

Depends whose battery tech you are wedded to? I’ve got a dewalt 899 and it’s rock solid. Very few times it’s been defeated. Some rusty old Landy stuff that just had to be completely cut off. That’s it.

The only downside of the big ones like the dewalt is sometimes you just can’t get the access you need. A good breaker bar and some penetrating fluid will solve for most use cases. The ‘shock’ from the impacts is what often breaks corrosion use in a way hand tools can’t.

[Jakg]

It's a very helpful tool if you do home mechanics a lot, but most of the time you can get stuck bolts shifted with a long enough breaker bar - but that can take some effort.

I've had cheap ones and they were rubbish - i.e. despite quoted torque, couldn't undo a wheel bolt. I then bought the ever popular Dewalt 899 and it's fantastic.

Depends on the size of your toolbox whether it's the next purchase though - and bear in mind you'll want a set of impact sockets to go with it.

[Bainbridge]

A good impact wrench is handy when changing old suspension parts because it's often difficult for access with a breaker bar.

A reciprocating saw with a good metal blade is also very handy.

[Smint]

Following the failure of a rear self levelling shocker i recently changed the rear springs/ and shocks on the Forester*, the hardest part was parting the rear strut from its hub fitting, an impact wouldn't have helped it was a case of driving a chisel into the gap once the bolts were out to open it slightly releasing grip on the strut.

• if anything using my impact might have been counter productive, where the long bolts went through the hub to secure the bottom of the strut, it was obvious the bolts were fairly rusted in place and really tight once initiallly loosened, by using manual 'feel' was able to work the bolts back and forth gradually increasing the turn until could get full turns, had i used the impact wouldn't have had the feel and possibly one or more of those long bolts might have snapped.

For what its worth i have a Dewalt 922N, mainly because already had the batteries for other tools mower etc, its fairly compact as these things go and does all the jobs i want, there's probably better out there but given the cost of genuine batteries it seems better to me to stick with one make.

[ffc]

I've got 1/2" and 3/4" drive 18v Makitas. Both excellent chosen to stay in the same battery family.

The big one comfortably spun off the bottom damper and rear hub nuts on my 964. The hub nuts are tightened to 340ft.lb.

[pcn1]

Once you have an impact you wont want to be without it.
I'm getting on a bit at 59, and I've been slowly refreshing the suspension on my 20 year old Jeep Grand Cherokee. Just getting under a car is a challenge these days !
Having the Dewalt has made it so much easier to undo difficult to reach or rusty bolts, so much so i don't think Id be doing the jobs without it anymore.

I needed a new battery drill at the same time anyway, so just started a collection of new tools all on the one battery 18V system.
Impact wrench
Impact driver
Drill
Torch
Grass strimer out in the shed !

[Scootersp]

I have a smaller Milwaukee M12 FIW38-0 12V Fuel 3/8" Brushless Impact Wrench, which is excellent but not quite man enough for some really high torque tight stuff, but it is great for access and most stuff and has a range of torque settings, including a nice setting that stops at a low torque, ie you can zap a nut/bolt in but as soon as you hit resistance it stops tightening, ready for proper torque wrenching. I have cracked tight stuff manually a 1/4 turn and then used the gun to remove, which is lots easier than using a ratchet as sometimes it can be a long thread and stiff all the way.

Your thread is making me think I need one of these big ones though that others mention for crank pulley/suspension bolts, there definitely will be times where it won't fit, perhaps impact wobble bits etc and you'll get to most bits.

I also have a Milwaukee M12FIR38LR-0 Long Reach Impact Ratchet, and this is useful for tight spaces (low spanner throw space) and also zapping on/off multiple under tray bolts in short order. These have surprising (to me anyway) power but not bolt shearingly powerful.

Also have a little mini disc cutter, the tyre pump, a light/tray thing, so again as others have said consider the brand and what they offer as it's better to have battery/charger consistency.

[WickedWizzzard]

Thank you all for sharing your suggestions, insights and experiences. Exactly what I was hoping for.
My main use case is also around work on the suspension. Based on what you shared I went ahead and bought a new DeWalt DCF900 I found for a very good price . Which I believe is the new equivalent of the DCF899 mentioned here. I have a few DW corded tools and I am a big fan. So I guess I’ll start building my collection of cordless from the same family.

[9xxNick]

WickedWizzzard said:

So I guess I’ll start building my collection of cordless from the same family.

I don't think you'll regret it. I started buying Makita battery tools about ten years ago and now have a dozen or so, including some gardening tools and a chainsaw as well as the usual drills, impact wrench, multitool and power file. The mains stuff doesn't get touched now.