Nut Splitters?

[dr_gn]

All, can anyone recommend a decent nut splitter?

I got a set of cheap ones, which worked fine once, but are made of what appears to be cheese. Something with properly hardened edges would be nice.

I need to get seized nuts of an anti-roll bar drop-link (little or no features to hold the threaded stub). I've done it before, and the easiest way of doing it was to split the nuts off.

Thanks.

[tapkaJohnD]

dr-gn,

I've seen experienced fitters remove seized nuts by cutting off one hex face with a gas axe (!). They were able to avoid melting the bolt threads.
I wouldn.t try that, even if I had the kit, but could you cut it off with a cutting disk in the angle grinder or just a hacksaw?

But before that, just some heat and a good penetrating oil. The heat need not be to redness, for the oil, I've had success with Innotec.

Good luck!
John

[selym]

Plusgas first, if the nut/bolt head is rounded beyond help then try one of those seized nut/bolt removal kits. I used one to great effect on a bolt that was rounded and appeared to be welded in!

[dr_gn]

tapkaJohnD said:

dr-gn,

I've seen experienced fitters remove seized nuts by cutting off one hex face with a gas axe (!). They were able to avoid melting the bolt threads.
I wouldn.t try that, even if I had the kit, but could you cut it off with a cutting disk in the angle grinder or just a hacksaw?

But before that, just some heat and a good penetrating oil. The heat need not be to redness, for the oil, I've had success with Innotec.

Good luck!
John

I've only got a blowtorch, but I've tried that before with no luck (and releasing fluid). The issue is having nothing to hold the stud from rotating.

Also tried a cutting disc in a dremel (no room for an angle grinder or hacksaw.

For the last one I did, I ended up smashing the plastic retainer out of the link, and holding the ball part with mole grips while I ratcheted the partially cut nut off. But it really took some effort to get the retainer out of the metal end in the first place.



The new one has thin flats on it, which may or may not help with eventual removal.

[TwinKam]

These are often a pain, are those on a Honda? Those suggesting heat or penetrating oil misunderstand the issue, you need to cut the nut or the stud; a mechanical hacksaw is your best friend here.

[darreni]

Hacksaw as above or if space permits, dremel with a decent cutting disc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-SpeedClic-Cutting-...

Full eye protection a must given the rpm.

[dr_gn]

TwinKam said:

These are often a pain, are those on a Honda? Those suggesting heat or penetrating oil misunderstand the issue, you need to cut the nut or the stud; a mechanical hacksaw is your best friend here.

2001 Civic.

As mentioned - very little room to get access for anything.

Thanks.

[richhead]

Those ones shown in your picture are made of cheese, total waste of time, i used to have a great on when i was on the tools, i think i got it from snap on. But cant remember for sure, it was 30 years ago, I find if a tool is for any sort of cutting, then spend more and get good, it pays for itself in the end.

It looked something like this
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BGS-Nut-Splitter-3-24-mm-...

[kestral]

darreni said:

Hacksaw as above or if space permits, dremel with a decent cutting disc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-SpeedClic-Cutting-...

Full eye protection a must given the rpm.

Have you used those on steel?

[Bazsm]

I've had success using the Dremel flexible shaft which can get into places the main tool can't reach.

[dr_gn]

As noted, I did use a dremel and cutting disc. However it took a very long time to get through the nut, in fact I resorted to a hammer a chisel in the end, then Mole Grips.

A good nut splitter would probably do the job far quicker.

[darreni]

kestral said:

darreni said:

Hacksaw as above or if space permits, dremel with a decent cutting disc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-SpeedClic-Cutting-...

Full eye protection a must given the rpm.

Have you used those on steel?

Yes, to cut off a 10mm lock nut & thread from a front anti roll bar drop link. No problem at all & i was using the lowest 2 speeds on the dremel.

[dr_gn]

kestral said:

darreni said:

Hacksaw as above or if space permits, dremel with a decent cutting disc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-SpeedClic-Cutting-...

Full eye protection a must given the rpm.

Have you used those on steel?

I tried them - took forever as noted, and in the end I got frustrated and resorted to other means.

[kestral]

dr_gn said:

I tried them - took forever as noted, and in the end I got frustrated and resorted to other means.

OK.

I don't know if more heat than a blow tourch would help, but I have a similar set up to one of these and have used it to heat up nut's and bolts and it works.

It gets a lot hotter than a blow tourch due to the introduction of oxygen. The Oxygen does not last long 10-15 mins a bottle and it is about £28 a bottle.

I don't use it much but it is a life saver.

Link just incase you did not know about them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172114021661?_nkw=oxytu...

[dr_gn]

kestral said:

dr_gn said:

I tried them - took forever as noted, and in the end I got frustrated and resorted to other means.

OK.

I don't know if more heat than a blow tourch would help, but I have a similar set up to one of these and have used it to heat up nut's and bolts and it works.

It gets a lot hotter than a blow tourch due to the introduction of oxygen. The Oxygen does not last long 10-15 mins a bottle and it is about £28 a bottle.

I don't use it much but it is a life saver.

Link just incase you did not know about them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172114021661?_nkw=oxytu...

It's not really about loosening the nut, it's about not being able to hold the stud from rotating - the other end of the stud is a ball joint. So you end up physically cutting the nut apart because - to a degree - you can't unscrew it whether it's loose or not. You can use as much heat or releasing fluid as you want, but unless the nut is literally free to spin on the stud against the very limited friction of a worn-out ball joint - it's not coming off.

[MattyD803]

kestral said:

darreni said:

Hacksaw as above or if space permits, dremel with a decent cutting disc

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-SpeedClic-Cutting-...

Full eye protection a must given the rpm.

Have you used those on steel?

I have - with the cutting disc as linked to above, the term knife through butter applies. Very quick and easy, used on all sorts of nuts/bolts/housings etc.

[richhead]

dr_gn said:

It's not really about loosening the nut, it's about not being able to hold the stud from rotating - the other end of the stud is a ball joint. So you end up physically cutting the nut apart because - to a degree - you can't unscrew it whether it's loose or not. You can use as much heat or releasing fluid as you want, but unless the nut is literally free to spin on the stud against the very limited friction of a worn-out ball joint - it's not coming off.

If you are changing the ball joint, then just cut it off, angle grinder/dremel whatever you can get in there.

[julianm]

The only ones worth having are Sykes Pickavant & mine's about 40 years old now. Maybe used once every 5 years. Hydraulic action & a sharp cutting edge.

[TwinKam]

richhead said:

dr_gn said:

It's not really about loosening the nut, it's about not being able to hold the stud from rotating - the other end of the stud is a ball joint. So you end up physically cutting the nut apart because - to a degree - you can't unscrew it whether it's loose or not. You can use as much heat or releasing fluid as you want, but unless the nut is literally free to spin on the stud against the very limited friction of a worn-out ball joint - it's not coming off.

If you are changing the ball joint, then just cut it off, angle grinder/dremel whatever you can get in there.

(My emboldening)
Yes, that is precisely the OP's issue, as he stated from the start.

[dr_gn]

TwinKam said:

richhead said:

dr_gn said:

It's not really about loosening the nut, it's about not being able to hold the stud from rotating - the other end of the stud is a ball joint. So you end up physically cutting the nut apart because - to a degree - you can't unscrew it whether it's loose or not. You can use as much heat or releasing fluid as you want, but unless the nut is literally free to spin on the stud against the very limited friction of a worn-out ball joint - it's not coming off.

If you are changing the ball joint, then just cut it off, angle grinder/dremel whatever you can get in there.

(My emboldening)
Yes, that is precisely the OP's issue, as he stated from the start.

I wasn't going to bother replying